With my new radiator, I purchased a catch can that I want to install where that ugly battery is. I just ordered the battery relocator kit from Summit. The kit comes with a black plastic marine style case. My question is, how safe is it to put a battery in the trunk with an aluminum fuel cell. There is an ocasional faint gas smell in the trunk as soon as you open it if it has been closed up for a few days. I am vented to the outside of the car... This is probably not a huge deal, but I just thought I would throw it out there. The most probable reason for the gas smell in the trunk after a few days, is the fact that the vent is on an on and off switch underneath the car, so the whole garage doesn't smell like gas. I turn the switch on before I drive, and there is usually a hiss.(decompression)

When I put mine back there I sealed up the covers and put a vent line using epoxy, vacuum line fittings and hose. I recently put in an Optima battery to eliminate any gases. Trunk mounted battery is a good deal anyway you look at it.

I think you should have a pressure cap like the factory used. That will keep the gas from evaporating and will allow air in while driving. If you still have the charcoal cannister it should go there to collect any fumes.

My race car has just a flapper check valve on the vent and no relief valve, it works.
David

------------------
The older I get, the faster I was!

if you have a gas smell in the trunk,i'd fix it A.S.A.P.,fumes from the gas and a spark could destroy your car is seconds.

------------------
My68Camaro (http://hometown.aol.com/dougs68camaro/index.html)This CamaroNet - the Webring for the 1st Generation Chevrolet Camaro site .

by Doug G..
Doug G.
68 Camaro
406 ci.

[This message has been edited by DOUG G (edited 06-17-2000).]

id get rid of that fuel leak before you put anything in the trunk. you dont want to lose the car from a spark in the battery.
otherwise battery in the boot is a good idea.

I have considered mounting my battery in the trunk and would like to know how you guys have routed and altered the wiring to prevent resistance/powerflow problems, etc?

I'd go to a welding supply store to get the cable, finer strand cable carries more amps.
You can look for a battery with a vent on it like the 70's Corvettes used. Delco made special caps that had vent hoses to vent the hydrogen gas. It's explosive and you don't want the car to smell like a sewer.

Later delco batteries have a small vent tube on each side that you could slip a hose over and vent outside.
There is probably a battery made for a foriegn model that has the battery under the rear seat. Volvo or Audi had them there.

Be shure and protect the cable from chafing. I've seen people run cable thru steel braided hose for looks and protection. but $$$$$
David

------------------
The older I get, the faster I was!

What about the optima like tom did. That would eliminate the fume problem all together wouldn't it? What do you think about the relocating kits dave, the wires not as good as welding leads? And like backfire asked, what about the resistance & powerflow? Do you need a higher output alternater to push the juice that far. I've thought about doing this also, but electrical is one of my weak points. I won't tell you the others. http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

------------------
Steve
67 SS 396,4-sp
67 RS 327,4-sp
72 RS 350/350
69 4X4 suburban 350,4-sp
73 3/4 ton 454/400
http://www.geocities.com/stevocamaro

How about using heavy duty audio cable to run the battery to the trunk?? Is this a good idea?? Thank you.

If you're running a higher compression motor then you'll probably want to go with a substantial cable in the 0-1 ga like welding cable- and solder all your connections. I've seen a few guys develop issues with the standard kit cables. Also pay attention to your grounding thoughout the car- chassis to body and chassis to engine.

I've run an enclosed trunk battery for 20 years- there's no big worry about battery fumes- but I would for sure deal with the accumulating gas fumes in your trunk as soon as possible. ;)

In three 69's, I'm running the Optima Yellow Top batteries (dry cell) in the trunk using this mounting kit:

http://detroitspeed.com/1967-1969%20Camaro-Firebird-Products/120101-bttry-mnt.html

...and this wiring kit:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/10303/10002/-1

No problems, ever.

Move the battery to the trunk, run solid body mounts, subframe connectors, the next larger sway bar (13/16") and Biltsteins up front, and for about $750~ you've completely altered the way your Camaro handles. Like going from a bass boat to a Vette (well, almost).

I found a pretty good source of Marine battery cable, they will also assemble the cable and ends for you if you buy everything from them for a $1 for each end.

http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Grade%20Wire/Marine%20Battery%20Cable/

Do you have any pics of the Detroit Speed bracket installed? I'd like to do that too but can't see how the bracket is secured to the mounting point.

Optima is the way to go if you're going to go the trouble of doing it.

Whats the best spot for the 18 inch ground wire to be terminated in the trunk?

Also, concerning all of the additional ground straps through out the body and engine. Is everyone using stock ground straps or are you all making up larger AWG size straps>

Thanks Kyle

For ground, I drilled a hole near the battery, installed a good grommet, and ran a black 1g cable to the rear frame rail. I have SF connectors (welded) which helps grounding to the rest of the car.

Then I ran a ground (same 1g cable with lugs) from the engine to the frame's crossmember under the engine.

There are also some nice factory braided copper grounds from the firewall to the frame and from the firewall to the valve covers.

Good luck!

Whats the best spot for the 18 inch ground wire to be terminated in the trunk?

Also, concerning all of the additional ground straps through out the body and engine. Is everyone using stock ground straps or are you all making up larger AWG size straps>

Thanks Kyle

I don't know if it's the "best", but the lid hinge support bracket comes to mind. If your car is a convertible, there's a 3/8-16 nut welded to the QP brace that is unused by anything I'm aware of - that's what I used. Just ran a bolt hrough it from the back side...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/trunk%20battery/P5210677.jpg