My 1998 Sliverado with 5.7 vortech has a code of 1345 Crank to cam sensor correlation. I just checked if dist was installed correctly and moved it so it was. I still have the code. Do I need a scan tool to fix this? I have read that I might need to do a case relearn but I haven't a clue. Any input would be appreciated.

Jeff

did you clear code and it come back on. did you take dizzy out for a reason or anything. if you did take dizzy out it maybe off by 1 tooth.

For OBD 2 diagnostic systems, you MUST use a code reader/code clearer to clear the codes. You can't just disconnect the battery like you can with OBD 1 systems. And yes the 98 Silverado has OBD 2 diagnostics.

You do need a scan tool to see the cam position in the data stream in order to properly adjust the cam sensor position. I see a lot of distributor gears gradually strip out on these engines resulting in a stalled vehicle. I have even seen one that allowed a big enough piece of metal in the engine to wipe out some bearings. I recommend you pull the distributor and see if any of the gear teeth are sharp. If so replace the distributor gear and pay to have it synchronized.

You do need a scan tool to see the cam position in the data stream in order to properly adjust the cam sensor position. I see a lot of distributor gears gradually strip out on these engines resulting in a stalled vehicle. I have even seen one that allowed a big enough piece of metal in the engine to wipe out some bearings. I recommend you pull the distributor and see if any of the gear teeth are sharp. If so replace the distributor gear and pay to have it synchronized.
I had the distributor out today and no sharp teeth. I have a code reader that reads and clears codes but will not read the data stream. I am going back out to confirm that the distributor is not of by one tooth (the other way). I just reset it this morning. I replaced the engine in this truck a while back and the replacement didn't have a dist in it. Thanks.

Jeff

I had the distributor out today and no sharp teeth. I have a code reader that reads and clears codes but will not read the data stream. I am going back out to confirm that the distributor is not of by one tooth (the other way). I just reset it this morning. I replaced the engine in this truck a while back and the replacement didn't have a dist in it. Thanks.

Jeff

If you have no way of reading the data stream then you cant get the dizzy in the right spot. Those motors have to be set with the cam timing at 0* +/- 2*, which unfortunately requires a scan tool or similar tool to properly set. Just to give you an idea of how far off you may be, that code may not even set until you are like 12*-15* off. Thats why being able to see the data stream when setting the timing on these becomes so important. Even if you get the timing close by doing it by ear lets say, The code may not set and you could still be like 15* off.

Ok I hear ya bighaas. I read that it might not set until 50 degrees off but that is nether here nor there at the moment. I guess what I need right now is a recomendation on a scanner that will read the stream and won't drain my wallet.

Jeff

Craftsman Club flyer came out this weekend. Good deal on a scanner for less than $260, p/n 20899. Cheaper if you're a member.

Paying a professional will be way cheaper then buying a scanner.

Paying a professional will be way cheaper then buying a scanner.
Not if I have to do this again. This is the second time I've had this code. I cleared it the first time by reclocking the dist. I must have missed by a tooth when i restabbed it after the intake gasket replacement. I must have gotten real lucky to get it close enough to clear the code because I can't clear it now. Thanks for your suggestion, it reminded me of an old neighbor that can do it for me.

Jeff

I know the Snap On brick (MT2500) can will do what you need and can be picked up cheap on Ebay.

:hurray:OK I got it fixed!:hurray: I took it down to my old neighbor Manny's shop and he put his OTC Genisis on it. It would not do the relearn kept saying fuel injector failure, but had no codes. I hoped in the passenger side and was looking over his shoulder as he scrolled through the data stream. I spotted one that said CMP retard -26 (what's that?). I had told him I thought I needed to turn the distributor and watch the cam retard, so we tried it. I turned the dist as far advanced as it will go aand it is close enough that the light is off and the code is cleared. Now a trip to the emissions test and then the dmv and I have new plates. As for the cost... I owe him:beers:

Jeff

The cam retard reading is the one you need, so you are on the right track.