Hi,

During my sub frame off engine rebuild, I painstakingly documented by pics all the details....then, when reinstalling my engine and harnesses, I hooked up my starter solenoid bass ackwards :boring:. Car wouldn't turn over, duh! When leaving the ignition key on for a minute or so, I noticed smoke coming off white resistance wire to the + side of the coil. So, I corrected the starter solenoid screw up and it turns over, but I noticed the white resistance wire in the harness feeding the starter, coil, wiper motor (etc.) was still getting very warm. Can touch it, but it gets pretty hot! Is this normal??

Note: During the resto, I took both engine compartment harnesses out and re-wrapped with friction tape, and checked continuity of all wires. I noticed the white resistance wire to the coil was pretty brittle, as if it had been very hot / burnt and broken down. At any rate, I wonder if it's time to replace, or could there be another culprit that is at play?
Regardless, a new harness is in store, but what if that's not it?

What is the norm here?
Where else should I look?
I've deferred getting the engine running until I solve this piece.

For now, the battery is disconnected! :thumbsup:

Many Thanks!

It is a resistor which means it will get warm dropping the voltage. I would make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy when you start it and drive it. Saved my butt!

Get rid of those points and resistor wire.

Leaving the key "ON" for a while will get it warm, but shouldn't be smoking.

Only time I had one smoke at the coil lead (only took 20-30 secs w/ new harnesses) was due to a starter solenoid that was shorting out. Wasn't wired wrong, a quick R&R fixed it.

As said, it is the ignition power supply wire and it does get hot if the point set is closed at the time the key is on IGN.

The wire will become brittle over time, its 40 yrs old, and the insulation does break down. You probably didn't help the cooling of the wire by wrapping it in tape. Cloth was put over it as a heat shield to protect other wires, but also to give it some ventilation. Remember seeing the difference in diameters? Heat has to go somewhere.

Getting a new wire would be calling any of the aftermarket harness makers, AAW sponsors here, and ask them for a complete wire assembly, terminal-to-terminal. Then pull out the firewall connector, use a paper clip to relelase the locking pin, pull out the old wire, and replace reloom the new wire.

Your present setup will be fine to run the engine, just keep an eye on it and as suggested, keep a fire extinguisher around.

If authenticity doesn't matter, they sell generic ballast resistors that mount on the firewall. Chrysler used these in production and they have a ceramic housing, keeping the coil insulated from its surroundings. I used one of these on my '68 back in high school, because I coudn't find anyone who made the actual wire-type resistor.

Thanks, considering the age of the harness and condition of the resistance wire, I think replacement of that harness is warranted.

Another choice would be to run either, a 12 AWG wire from the IGN spade on the fusebox or as said, clip the wire from the f/wall connector, about 2-3 inches out, and solder the new wire on, and run an HEI distributor.

Another choice would be to run either, a 12 AWG wire from the IGN spade on the fusebox or as said, clip the wire from the f/wall connector, about 2-3 inches out, and solder the new wire on, and run an HEI distributor.


Thanks Everett, many helpful tips here--as usual :thumbsup:

You might have a difficult time soldering a new copper tin-plated wire onto the existing resistive wire as the OE wire is nichrome wire, good choice to braze than solder.

Better choice is to terminate with the same terminal as the OE wire and press into the f/wall connector after the f/wall connector is mated.

Best choice is to run a new wire, solder on the crimp terminals, and route it from the IGN spade on the fusebox.

You might have a difficult time soldering a new copper tin-plated wire onto the existing resistive wire as the OE wire is nichrome wire, good choice to braze than solder.

Better choice is to terminate with the same terminal as the OE wire and press into the f/wall connector after the f/wall connector is mated.

Best choice is to run a new wire, solder on the crimp terminals, and route it from the IGN spade on the fusebox.

Thanks again, what is your opinion on quality of a repro harness? Do these employ the nichrome wire? After looking the harness over, it is pretty whooped. I'm thinking of replacing the whole thing...

AAW, a sponsor here, makes a good harness according to other members. I cannot say, I'm still running OE harness.