I'm trying to replace an outer tie rod end and adjusting sleeve. I've never done this before. I'm having trouble getting the old tie rod end out of the spindle. :mad: Am trying bigger and bigger hammers. This may have been on there since 1968. Any tips??? Does the new one need to be pressed in?

You need a big hammer! If it is really stuck go get yourself a pickle fork at any parts store it will wedge between the two parts and it should come apart fairly easily. They are not pressed in it is just a tight tapered fit, it will come apart.
Good luck.

If u dont have a fork....do not try to wack the ball joint out..it will not move
get someone to hold a dolly or large hammer head hard against the ring part it sits in
Then using a heavy hammer wack the other side of the ring part real hard several times
When u wack, do not pull back when u hit , but wack 'thru' as if u are wacking something another couple inches further than it realy is.
The taper joint will just pop free.

I had to use some PB Blaster and heat to get one of mine apart. If you leave the nut on the end and hit it, you will not mushroom the threaded part.

If you hit the ring part on the side, like Steps said, the vibration should knock it loose. Then again, if you're not going to reuse it, just smack the crap out of the threaded stud.

Mark

Thanks for the help guys. I finally went down to Auto Zone and rented a tie rod fork. It broke loose on the first whack of the hammer. Put on the new one, took a test dive, and it seems OK.

My only remaining concern is how tight should I tighten up the adjusting sleeve? I tightened 'em up "pretty tight" by hand. Is there a torque requirement?

Daral: I agree, I use PB Blaster all the time. Good stuff.

heat to get one of mine apart.

HEAT!!!! that is a no no !!!
In fact it is very illegal to do so in NZ.

My only remaining concern is how tight should I tighten up the adjusting sleeve? I tightened 'em up "pretty tight" by hand. Is there a torque requirement?
put a thin film of grease in the taperbefore assembly...this stops corrosion binding over time ...makes work easyer next time
Tighten good and firm..I dont know the torque
General rule of thumb...using ring spanners is like playing golf
When u play golf, each club is a different length, and the face is different angle..
u hit the ball with the same weight with each club..the club does the work
So if u have a long fairway shot, u use say a 4 iron..long shaft, and flat face and the ball goes out long and flat
Closer to the green u use a 9 iron, shorter shaft, and angled face...the ball pops up high and comes down far shorter distance.

A set of ring spanners are different lengths...larger longer, more leverage for the same weight
Get the Idea?
If u have a torque wrench, get the 'feel' of different sized bolts ....But when it comes to heads, inlet manifolds , carb mounts etc use the torque wrench

OH while we are at it
The open end spanner...why is it off set at an angle?
No not so u can use it 2 ways
It is to stop skinned knuckles
it works like a monkey wrench, pull down and the jaws lock tight...lift and they open
The jaws of an open end spanner under stress do the same.

I mention this because I assume/it seems u are sort of new to the 'trade'
understanding and familarity with your tools..even something like a spanner, make life far easier
Hope it helps
Cheers
Steps