I think its a ford 9in but it has chevy lug pattern..

http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr50/kevin58145/IMG_1060.jpg

http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr50/kevin58145/IMG_1058.jpg

http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr50/kevin58145/IMG_1059.jpg

any info or tips would be great THANKS,

Kevin.

Looks like a plain old 55-64 Chevy rear end to me. Probably out of a 55, 56 or 57 Chevy.....

looks Like A Plain Old 55-64 Chevy Rear End To Me. Probably Out Of A 55, 56 Or 57 Chevy.....
X2

is this a good rear end to work with or should i scrap it and go with something else?

Anybody notice the yellow paint on the traction bars? Those maybe real Day 2 Lakewood bars.

They are decent rears, depending on what you want to use the car for, but parts are getting harder to find. I have used them in some of my old street rods. I have had them live into the 12's, but not for long.
In your second picture, get the numbers between the top and bottom ribs on the driver's side of the center section. If you are lucky there will be a large "P" by the casting number which denotes a "posi" rear. What ratio is it? If you decide to change rears, let me know as I would be interested if you want to sell it.

Eric

That's the '55-'64 Chevy 8.2. The 409 cars use to break them pretty regular. Eaton makes a new posi for them that fits in the standard case. No need for the rare P case anymore. There are some stronger parts available for these rear ends now that makes them hold up behind some pretty stout engines, but it takes some money to make them stronger.

That's the '55-'64 Chevy 8.2. The 409 cars use to break them pretty regular. Eaton makes a new posi for them that fits in the standard case. No need for the rare P case anymore. There are some stronger parts available for these rear ends now that makes them hold up behind some pretty stout engines, but it takes some money to make them stronger.

The big problem when those rearends were used in drag cars was the breaking of main caps and the terminally weak axles. A pair of billet main caps or just a pair of add on reinforcing caps with longer and stronger bolts got them to where they could live. Add in aftermarket axles, bigger and stronger side gears in the posi, and you had a respectable rearend for a lower powered car with slicks, a heavy flywheel and a bada$$ clutch. The next step up was the 57 and later Pontiac rear that was the same style but 2-3 times stronger. BTDT.

#1000 - - ;)

Or a '57 or so Olds rearend!

You want a drop out pumpkin rearend, then please consider a MOPAR that's not the Dana 60. I want to say 8.75"(??) out of a Challenger or a Duster back then?????

Might be off tho.........

pdq67

I went through this already. By the time you have new perches welded, Rear shortened or lengthend, axles, studs, rebuilt center section, yoke if it's not the right one, brakes ect..... Just buy one done. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Complete-9-Rearend-1967-1969-Chevy-Camaro-9-Inch_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el126 2QQcategoryZ33731QQihZ013QQitemZ230184751393 I got there rear without the disk brake package and the chevy ends so my drum brake bolt right up, Strange N center section, moser 33 spline axles, long studs, 1350 yoke and a track lock posi for $1550. I havent had any problems. Nice guys to deal with. It's prob gonna cost you that or more to make that work. You'll end up using just the housing anyway. JMO....

thanks for all the replys! this is what i found on the rear end

the whole number is not clear enough to make out so what i have is a seven digit number that reads

X725XXX (the X's are numbers i could not make out)

I found this infomation on the left side of the pumpkin, it was followed by a GM in big letters. i'm unsure on the ratio I was told by the previous owner it was a 4:56 and i dont know how to determine if it is or not.

(the previous owner also said he could dump the clutch and pull the tires 11inches off the ground. hard to belive that when it appers to be an open rear end.)

then again I could be checking things the wrong way and it could be a posi but when i turn the drive shaft only one wheel turns the other just sits there which leads me to belive its an open..

I dont know much about rear ends that why I'm asking the pros on my favriote website YOU GUYS ARE AWSOME!

When you have it jacked up turn the drive shaft & count the number of times you can turn it in relation to one full revolution of the rear wheel. If the drive shaft turns 4.56 times to 1 turn of the wheel then you do indeed have a 4:56 ring & pinion.

When you have it jacked up turn the drive shaft & count the number of times you can turn it in relation to one full revolution of the rear wheel. If the drive shaft turns 4.56 times to 1 turn of the wheel then you do indeed have a 4:56 ring & pinion.

That only works if you have posi. Since you seem to have a single track, block one wheel to keep it from turning, then rotate the opposite tire two turns and keep track of the number of revolutions of the driveshaft. That will do the same thing as turning both tires on a posi rear end.

Thanks for all the replys You guys all helped me out alot, I think I'm gonna do the 9in from ebay that someone mentioned above.