79 z28
454 BBC at .030
GM casting 3993820 open chamber oval port heads
10.5:1 SRP pistons
Eagle rods
Solid roller cam
duration at 50
intake
255
exh
265
lift
intake
650
exh
675
Victor jr intake (raised open plenium) with a 1" spacer
Holley 830 carb
1.75" headers
3" flowmaster 50 series delta flow exhaust with turndowns at the backseat

350 turbo trans with shift kit
4.10 gear
3500 stall
car weighs 3680lbs with me in it.
It is a street car.
At the drag strip: 1/8 mile

1st pass
7.16 et at 96.0 mph
1.56 60' time

2nd pass
7.18 et at 96.9 mph
1.63 60' time (spinning)
stall at line for both was 2800 rpm at launch.

Dyno
at rear wheels
523 torque at 3750 rpm
449 hp at 6800 rpm

this is at 36 degrees of timing.

Any ideas to lower my et's

Since this I have removed the front sway bar and installed racing adjustable shocks on all 4 corners. What about a edelbrock performer rpm intake? more stall? ideas?

Cams is on the large side.
Whats the LSA and intake CL?
Looks like it makes plenty TQ, but at a low rpm.
1 7/8" or even 2" headers would be good, as long as the primaries are long.
Proform 950 carb body.
3" X-pipe
What kinda stall? what brand?
Stick the car on a diet, thats heavy.
Bowl work on the heads, you do have bigger valves right?
60fts well, should go 10s with little work.
Is it pump gas?

yes on the bigger valves. the heads were ported by the engine builder. I'll get back to you on the cam. The torque converter is a cheap converter. Transmission specialties 10" 3500 stall. Is is called a 10000MS. It has a H-pipe instead of an X-pipe. I mix a little racing gas 110 octane (20-30%) when I am racing on 36 degrees. Around town timing 32 and 1 gallon of 110 to 8 gallons of 93 octane. Your combo sure looks good. I am running the low 7's hunting for 6.90's. thanks

More stall! OF course that will affect drivability. How much street action does it see?

Did you run those numbers recently? If so, I know it is hot as hades in SC and it sure has been hot and humid here in NC lately. You will see 6.90's without touching a thing in better air.

I run those numbers in april so not to bad of air. I have not run it since the suspension changes. It is a weekend cruiser and a once a month racer.

I agree about the heat. I wouldn't change a thing just keep records and tweak things like timing, spacers or carb changes and drop the exh. and fool around with tire pressure and launch rpm and alignment settings ;)

Some ET can lie in the driveline by reducing parasitic losses.

One trick I use is to put higher air pressure in both front & rear tires. For the front I have 26 x 7.50 MT front runners which I run 35 psi on the street and 42-45 when racing. On the rear tires I run as much pressure as I can and still hook well. This helps reduce rolling resistance.

Also, if you have front disc brakes, you can get a friction reduction kit from Bowling Green Customs. The kit basically is a set of springs and shim washers which pushes the disc pads away from the rotor to reduce drag. Simple and inexpensive kit (under $40).

These mods will not give several tenths, rather a couple hundredths. But in drag racing, once you get to a certain point you stop finding tenths and start digging for every hundredth.

What are the advantages or disadvantages between an x pipe and h pipe. I was already considering redoing the exhaust so should I change. Does the proform 950 flow that much better to offset the cost over the holley 830hp? Thanks for the help :confused:

by the way the centerline on the cam is 110

I doubt you'll pick up much ET (if any) from an exhaust or carb change. Your engine combination should have no trouble getting your ride into the mid/high 10's.

I'm leaning towards your converter choice. It would be nice to know what rpm the converter flashes to.

The right converter can easily knock 3 to 5 tenths off your ET if the previous converter was mismatched in some way.

If I am in 3rd and punch it, it really feels like it kicks in very close to 3500. The converter was suppose to be a 3200 to 3500 stall. maybe this helps--After listening to some of you and some others on another site I was thinking a 3800-4000 stall might have been better. However do you have a certain recommendation for the converter. I just got that one because it was cheap and I wanted to get the car running.

I agree . . . more stall should help. Like 4000 RPM, maybe a hair closer to 4500. Especially with the cam and intake choice.

BTW. Be careful reading chassis dyno info at low RPM. TQ multiplication from the converter at or just above stall can make the TQ peak RPM look lower and the fl/lbs look higher. Your peak TQ may be higher than the chassis dyno leads you to believe. Just a thought . . .

Given your cam specs, I'd say you could easily use a 4500 rpm flash converter. I myself really like ATI conveters. My second and third choice would be Coan and lastly PTC.

A converter is no place to try and save $$$. My first converter easily held my car back by some 3 to 5 tenths...the right converter made a world of difference with my combination.

What I would recommend is you call ATI and ask to speak with Charlie Plott. Gove him all your specs and info as well as intended usage, etc...he's very good a hitting your converter choice if you give him honest info.

I FOUND YOU TNT2. LOOKS LIKE A CALL TO ATI IS IN ORDER. graemlins/waving.gif

Well I have now called ATI, Coan, Hughes, and transmission specialities.
ATI and coan says that a 8" race converter with a 4200 stall would benefit me but they doubt it would take me to the 6.90's. They said the benefit would be more in durability. Hughes did not think very little gain would occur from what I have now--they even recommended a 3500 satll for my combo! Trans Specialities (which is what I have now) thought that if I switched to the 8 or 9 inch race converter with a 4200 stall, I would probably make the 6.90 range. Now problem is that 1 out of 4 is not good enough odds to pay 600-800 bucks for a converter. Looks like 100 bucks for another dyno pass might be best. That way I can always get some benefit. What do you guys think??/ Maybe ED with the fast chevelle needs to critique my setup and give some ideas... :confused:

Ed would tell you to go with the 8"ATI,
and nothing else.

Rafel is on the Money,
but i would like to add,
Ed would tell you that if you do ALOT of street driving then use the 10" ATI treemaster, but if you go to and from the track and thats it then use the 8" ATI treemaster.

If he puts his car in gear, it will start rolling, with the 8".

He did a comparison against the 8" BTE, the results were .17 slower, and he could brake stall it over 4000rpms! Not something you want in a street car.

His 8" ATI was also quicker then the 9" Dynamic.


He would also Mention that you will ET quicker with the RPM or RPM air gap dual plane intake....Ask Kenn Jett about the Victor, his car slowed up with it.
He and I would also recommend Dynomax Ultraflo mufflers

I've ran both the ATI 8" and current 10", and the 10" is much more streetable,
footbrakes 2500 and flashes 4000, pretty good on the street.
Brian I havnt had time to get with Aerospace about the brakes yet (since we're not in a hurry),
but I will soon - dont want you to think I left you hangin. I'm busy with the 383 / truck, but
after the swap, I'm jumpin back on the camaro.
Also your pics on Chevelles look like your running the ultraflows - right?
If so how do they compare sound wise to other mufflers like Hooker aerochambers, Borla
and such? are they louder or quieter? Doing a bit or research on muffs now, I'm gonna
try some different muffs - to quiet it down some, lookin at Magnaflows.
Thanks

We'll find out soon how these sound on the car.

Working on the exhaust system still.

Take your time about the brakes, i'm in no hurry to take the car apart again. Just let me know when you're ready.


I built the motor for my brother's corvette, we fired it this weekend, and not surprising even with a mild cam and 9:1 compression the car is what i would consider LOUD with 40 series flowmasters.
A little too loud for a daily driver, i'm sure many like it to be overly loud though.