I've read your posts with great tips on replacing a pinion seal without removing the carrier, but I'm also upgrading the pinion yoke with a larger 1350 u-joint forged model from Inland Empire (on my 12 bolt '67 Camaro).

Can I still get away with using a new nut and re-torquing to 100 ft.lbs, or do I have to completely dissassemble the rear and replace the crush-sleeve spacer since I'm changing the yoke?

I realize that marking the threads won't work at all since the new yoke won't be the same exact dimension, but shouldn't the re-torque method still work since the pinion depth/shims won't actually change?

The rear was previously set up by a pro with Richmond gears and has a perfect contact pattern and backlash with no whine. I'd really hate to screw that up!

Thanks for any help!

I did same thing a few months ago on my '68 12-bolter. Upgraded to a new driveshaft from Denny's Driveshaft and also went to 1350 series joints. Denny did not seem too concerned about the crush sleeve. He said just to put my 1/2" drive ratchet on there and crank the yoke nut as tight as I could by hand.

I was worried about ruining the absolutely perfect setup, but I did like he said and all is well.

Hope this helps.

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Yes you can and it is searchable here... Search Camaros.net (http://www.camaros.net/forums/search.php)

Anyhow,
You need to replace the nut as well. When putting the new one on you need to tighten it to get about 15-20 in lbs of rotating force at the pinion since it is a used rear.

Use a new nut, put red Loktite on it and torque it to 150 foot pounds. This will not mess up the pinion bearing preload, but will be tight enough to hold everything in place. Be sure to smear some RTV sealer into the splines of the yoke before you put it on or you will have an oil leak.

Thanks so much for your replies! I'll give it a shot this weekend.