http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56505

Great info. Thanks for sharing. I'm thinking of doing a budget build 355, and it came in really handy.

You're welcome , I was interested at the point where I read this ......:thumbsup:
Stock out-of-the-box Vortec heads have approx. 480HP potential naturally-aspirated. Fully race-ported flowing 275 cfm @ 28" water with 2.055/1.60 valves, potential is approx. 580 HP. There are reports of some shops getting close to 300 cfm out of these heads in fully-ported form.

They're cheap and have good power,plus Vortec heads are what I am running:D

You're welcome , I was interested at the point where I read this ......:thumbsup:
Stock out-of-the-box Vortec heads have approx. 480HP potential naturally-aspirated. Fully race-ported flowing 275 cfm @ 28" water with 2.055/1.60 valves, potential is approx. 580 HP. There are reports of some shops getting close to 300 cfm out of these heads in fully-ported form.

They're cheap and have good power,plus Vortec heads are what I am running:D
I read most of the thread, great info.
Okay, assuming you use a 97 or up Vortec head like on the trucks/passenger vehicles and have 2.02"/1.55" or the 1.60" valves installed and heads milled to get more compression what else would you need to get 480hp on a 350? that is A LOT of power for a basic head assuming it's going on a motor that isn't large or budget busting.
Got any good build sheets?

I didn't read far enough to get any specs, quite a bit of reading...

Gary's "Cheap Street" Vortec Camaro build-up. Note: a few years ago, Car Craft magazine ran a class for two years called "Cheap Street". The idea was to run a small block with a limit of 360ci, only unported heads from a limited list of 'budget heads', and restrictions on a nitrous plate system. It was CC's way of trying to get the average car guy racing within a limited budget. Too bad not enough guys ran that class to keep it going, but what became apparent by season 2 was that the quickest and fastest guys seemed to be running Vortec heads. Here is Gary's Camaro build, which he was going to run in this class. This is a compilation of several posts on his car.

The Gary Penn Discussions -

Part 3: The Vortec Camaro "Cheap Street" Project:

"With the juice 649 HP @ 5900 RPM, 611 ft lbs @ 5300.

Without the juice 479 HP @ 6100, 446 ft lbs @ 5100.

Used 4 bolt production block, bored .060.Hard block filled.
Used production forged crank, rod journals turned down to 2.000 (from 2.100)
Light rods, 5.7 inch.
Diamond flat top pistons, custom machined valve reliefs (small as possible.)
Second hand Hamburger oil pan, full length kick-out, stripper screen.
6.75 inch damper.
High tension top ring, low(none) tension second ring, standard oil ring.
Solid flat tappet cam, .485 lift, custom nitrous grind from the comp catalog of lobe profiles. Comp solid lifters with hard face and EDM oil hole in base.
Previously owned Vortec heads, 2.05/1.60.Angle milled one degree, 50cc chamber, 12.5 to 1 CR. Serti valve job. No porting, light spring retainers. Comp springs w/120lbs on the seat.
Crane 1.5 gold roller rockers. 7/16 studs.
GM single plane Vortec intake.
750 mighty Demon.
1.5 inch open carb spacer.(tried several, this worked best.)
MSD fixed timing dist. 32 degrees N/A, 26 on the juice.
1 7/8 x 33 headers, 3.5 inch collector 12 inches long.
Nitrous Works plate w/.063 jet.
VP C14 fuel.
10W30 oil, 7 qts (minus what was leaking out of a bad weld in the pan, gonna have to fix that.)
ARP and GM bolts/studs throughout.

Fuel is VP C12. Car is street legal (more or less)and plated, but you wouldn't want to drive it too much more than a head turning roll through town. Converter is very drivable considering its specs. Heads were rolled one degree to get the chamber to 50cc from 64. Peak power is at 5900, but still makes good power at over 7000. We measured it on a dyno to 7200. I shift it at 6500 (1-2)and 7000 (2-3) and cross the line at 7200-7400. Duration is about 270 at.050. Hope to dip into the tens this weekend with some better air and less wheel spin, it'll either work or it won't.

Koni's and Lamb's seem to be prefered by hard core sportsman racers in stock and superstock. I have Koni SPA's on my car.

Nothing too trick here, just a well thought out combo with parts that compliment each other. Thanks for playing the guessing game and congratulations to the winner....if in fact there is ever agreement on who that is.

I read most of the thread, great info.
Okay, assuming you use a 97 or up Vortec head like on the trucks/passenger vehicles and have 2.02"/1.55" or the 1.60" valves installed and heads milled to get more compression what else would you need to get 480hp on a 350? that is A LOT of power for a basic head assuming it's going on a motor that isn't large or budget busting.
Got any good build sheets?

I didn't read far enough to get any specs, quite a bit of reading...


A set of AFRs would be cheaper and make more hp.Gary Penn used a cam that is 270 @ .050 not a real streetable cam in a 350.That build up was for a street class race car.

I've got a brand new set of these heads that I need to sell. I posted up in that thread on nastyz28.com. I was going to build a budget 406 a few years ago, then I just decided to go all out. They have been machined for 7/16" screw in studs, and bigger springs. I have a new set of comp cams 7/16 screw in studs as well as a set of comp cams guide plates and stock length comp cams push rods to go with them. The heads have comp cams 986 dual springs already installed. If anyone is interested PM me. I also have a tall set of polished aluminum valve covers for them and a gmpp dual plane intake.

Sorry Alan, read the thread yesterday and forgot about that combo you posted that was in the link!

I don't think any set of afr's will be more cheap than vortecs...

Sorry Alan, read the thread yesterday and forgot about that combo you posted that was in the link!

I don't think any set of afr's will be more cheap than vortecs...

Check on the price to have the machine work done then you will see what I am saying.

I am not knocking Vortec heads I have ran them. The last Vortec motor we built a 355 made 538hp @ 6800rpms.That set of heads cost $1700.00 to build.

Check on the price to have the machine work done then you will see what I am saying.

I've got about $950 in my set, and I bought my 195 AFR elminators for $1420. The initial price isn't that bad for the heads, but like you say, the machine work and upgrade parts are where it really adds up.

I paid EXACTLY $746 to my door from Scoggin Dickey with 600 lift springs.

I've got about $950 in my set, and I bought my 195 AFR elminators for $1420. The initial price isn't that bad for the heads, but like you say, the machine work and upgrade parts are where it really adds up.

What did you have done?

http://competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=11310010K3 Dart aluminum Unit price is for a Pair.

http://competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=10310010PFK2 Dart cast iron 49cc no need to mill them

http://competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=10310010PK1

Their are other brands also these are just examples.When you figure in the machine work and for Ace's 68 a Vortec intake and valve covers to go with the heads they arent such a good deal.And before someone says it I know some of them come drilled for the old intake most intakes will not fit because the inkake ports on the heads are taller than standard heads.Also the ports are narrower than the old style ports major missmatch = airflow loss.If you dont have any parts ( good intake Valve covers rocker arms ETC.) and use them a bought they are a good deal.Also alot of the testing and comparisons was done 10 years ago.The L31 Vortec came out in 1996.The aftermarket stuff is cheaper and more plentiful than it was them.

I paid EXACTLY $746 to my door from Scoggin Dickey with 600 lift springs.

But if those are the Mexican castings they have smaller intake runners and don't make the power the non Mexican heads do.

What did you have done?

valve guides machined to clear 986 springs, installed those springs, pressed in studs removed, and had he heads drilled and tapped for 7/16" screw in studs so would not have to use self aligning rockers. I was worried about the studs pulling out with a cam over .500" lift, so i just went ahead and had the big studs put in the heads for strength purposes. this didn't cost $950, but that is what I have in the heads, the work done to them and the extra parts, springs, valve stem seals, studs, guide plates ect....

valve guides machined to clear 986 springs, installed those springs, pressed in studs removed, and had he heads drilled and tapped for 7/16" screw in studs so would not have to use self aligning rockers. I was worried about the studs pulling out with a cam over .500" lift, so i just went ahead and had the big studs put in the heads for strength purposes. this didn't cost $950, but that is what I have in the heads, the work done to them and the extra parts, springs, valve stem seals, studs, guide plates ect....

If you had angle milled them and put in larger valves you could have bought AFRs.That is the point I have been trying to make if you use them stock you are ok but if you modify them their are alot better flowing heads for the same money.Also if you are upgrading and already have a good intake and valve covers its not a good deal either.Like Patrick said $746 for the heads $184 performer rpm intake $50 for valve covers $980.You can buy the Dart Iron Eagle 200 cc heads for that.They are a heavier casting and flow more air.

I do have AFRs, lol. I decided against these heads because I knew they would kill the 400 I wanted to build. The are awesome on a mild to moderate 350 or 383. I think whoever gets my setup will get a deal, if they choose to buy the intake, valve covers and heads. I've got right at $1300 in it and am letting it go for $850.

I do have AFRs, lol. I decided against these heads because I knew they would kill the 400 I wanted to build. The are awesome on a mild to moderate 350 or 383. I think whoever gets my setup will get a deal, if they choose to buy the intake, valve covers and heads. I've got right at $1300 in it and am letting it go for $850.

Yeah I new you had the AFRs.Yes $850 is a steal on your setup.If I had the spare change I would buy them.

I have vortecs and there great for a production low cost setup. They can be kept cheap depending on your power level. I run a 350/330 ho motor with a lunati voodoo 268 cam and crane 10309 valve springs retainers and locks with stock guided rocker arms. Never did any machine work and installed the valve springs with the heads on the motor. for this power level they work great. If i had to put anything over a few hundred bucks into them i would have gone with something else.

I have vortecs and there great for a production low cost setup. They can be kept cheap depending on your power level. I run a 350/330 ho motor with a lunati voodoo 268 cam and crane 10309 valve springs retainers and locks with stock guided rocker arms. Never did any machine work and installed the valve springs with the heads on the motor. for this power level they work great. If i had to put anything over a few hundred bucks into them i would have gone with something else.

Dave, I have stock vortec (062) heads and I want to cheaply upgrade the springs and lift clearance. How much does the 10309 valve springs retainers buy you for valve lift? I see that stock vortec heads have a limit or ~0.45 lift. I will need about 0.5 lift for my cam. By the way, I plan to use Z28 springs.

Thanks

They get you to about .550 without any clearnace issues and just drop in. My cam has .489/.504 lift and hasnt had any problems. If yo go to 1.6 rockers you will need to drill out the pushrod holes. They are holes not slots on vortecs. Good luck my motor makes 375-385hp as it is now.