I am looking at a motor I may buy , but think it may be to radical
for street crusing, need feedback. 4 bolt 383 Scat 9000 crank,
hb hyper pistons, double roller chain,210 AFR heads, comp x-treme
274 cam, roller rockers, elderbrock avs 750 carb. Seems like a lot
of airflow for a 350 block. Would that cam be streetable? Thanks
any imput would sure be helpfull..

I am looking at a motor I may buy , but think it may be to radical
for street crusing, need feedback. 4 bolt 383 Scat 9000 crank,
hb hyper pistons, double roller chain,210 AFR heads, comp x-treme
274 cam, roller rockers, elderbrock avs 750 carb. Seems like a lot
of airflow for a 350 block. Would that cam be streetable? Thanks
any imput would sure be helpfull..

The block does not have any thing to do with air flow or what the engine needs. 302, 327, 350, 383, 396 and all the other odd jobber stoker/bore 4.00" blocks can be made any of the above by simply switching out the crank shafts.

A 383 with a 274 cam is pretty mild, even if the compression is kinda low, KB Hyper Pistons are not forged and not as strong (stronger parts can sometimes means better longevity & abuse), Roller rockers only have advantages, Edelbrock make good stock mild performance carbs.
In no way is this motor too much for the street. Should be a good perfromer and meet or exceed your expectations. Larger motors can take bigger cams and heads and intakes (within reason).

If it makes you feel any better I have a 333" with a 750 edel, big heads, and a comp cams 286 and it is strong on the street but by no means too much.

Theres an owner of a race team out there who runs to burger kind on his lunch break in a 6 second late model body Camaro (just for the laughs), no joke.
Can't remember the team name or person off the top of my head but it's on you tube somewhere.

In my opinion you can make any motor street able, it's wether or not you have the right chassis and running gear to keep it's power under control

Thank,s john for the help. What kind of hp and tourqe would you think?
I think the guy would take 3500.00. Motor is pretty much turnkey. Built
6 years ago, sat in a 69 restoration project, started and ran but not used.
Guy has decided to go Ls route. Said he spent close to 6500.00 to
build? Just don't want to get burned, Thanks again, Bill

The only thing I would change is the heads for such a mild motor I would use AFR 195 heads. If you were going for more power stay with the 210s.

Looks like a good combo to me. Lots of power, but still streetable. If you are running an automatic, you'll probably need a higher stall converter. Comp Cams recommends at least a 2200 RPM. If you use a decent 2 plane intake and small tube headers, it ought to make around 380 HP and 390 TQ. Right at the magical 1 HP per cubic inch mark.

10:1 motor with a 274? AFR210's? Wow..that will be a nice street motor.

If you use a t400 or a t350, you can get a saturday night special convertor and that will be alot of fun on the street. I would keep the AFR210's cause you might want a larger cam on down the road. that motor may be more fun with a next size larger cam or so.
however, $6500 to build it? hmmm...it should have forged internals for that price. that motor can be built for 4500 or so...my .02 :D

Thanks for the info, I think your right that you could build that motor
for 4500.00. The guy said it was built 5 years ago for his 69 camaro
resto. I asked if he had reciepts for parts and he said they were somewhere in his attic. Would you spend 3500.00 not hearing it
run. Maybe just save more money and buy from a reputable engine
co. Guy seems honest, he owns a 69 camaro??

I would spend the 3500 and chance it. At worst, you have 3500 dollars worth of parts.
heck its 1500 just in the heads, if not more.It starts and runs, I would chance it...thats just me. You probly couldnt build it for 3500. Offer him 2750 in cash. then a little more until he says yes. I think the verb-i-ology(lol) used is 'jew him down'.

In my opinion that would be very streetable. Mine is a 10.3 comp 355 with a 280 cam and very streetable with plenty of vac and runs at a good temp in trafic. I had it with a 3000 stall and 4.11's (was very drivable and went like a raped ape). Your extra cubes will def handle that cam no problem with plenty of torque. Again only my opinion and everyone seems to have a different opinion of what streetable is. If I had to pick a concern it would maybe be the head size but even still your cubes help you out there again. In fact the more I think about it like wiskeesour says its good option for a larger cam down the road, and if that becomes the case I'd call the cam companies cause in my opinion I'd go with a single pattern cam once you are running good after market heads, but get their advice on that one. All this is depending on you having a little higher then stock stall and some mid to high 3's gearing, I'm thinking in the 2500 to 2800 stall and 355 to 373 range. Good luck with your purchase!

I spoke with the guy a little more tonight, he is going to try and start
it up this weekend, it's on an engine stand. The engine was built 5
years ago and so the afr stamping is cast on the side of the heads??
He told me there was a small oil leak between the head and block
which was repaired. The heads were sent back to afr to close a gap
between block and head, now repaired he said it should'nt leak. He
is gonna make a video of motor running. Harley you build motors, does
this sound right. Thank's again.

I spoke with the guy a little more tonight, he is going to try and start it up this weekend, it's on an engine stand. The engine was built 5 years ago and so the afr stamping is cast on the side of the heads?? He told me there was a small oil leak between the head and block which was repaired. The heads were sent back to afr to close a gap between block and head, now repaired he said it should'nt leak. He is gonna make a video of motor running. Harley you build motors, does this sound right. Thank's again.

That sounds like a warped head, and I'm not sure I'd get involved in that. Frankly, the rest of that engine is pretty pedestrian - it's the heads that are very good and if there's an issue with the heads, I'd pass. I purchased a 383 with a Callies forged crank, SRP forged pistons, Scat forged H beam connecting rods, dry sump (sold), sollid roller (sold), Dart Pro 1s, and a single plane manifold (sitting around somewhere) for a net $1,800 or so.

You should be able to do better.