Ok recently I made a large post about what i wanted to create for a small block, and I said I really wanted to get one, unless I found a well priced 454 big block. Well I did. The things I bought consist of :
1974 2 bolt Main 454 big block +.030 over. It'll be turned into a splayed caps block.
Peanut Port 236 cylinder heads.
292H comp cams Hydraulic flat tappet.
Whole bottom end, all cast.
Aftermarket Oil pan and pump. I forget At the moment, but i beleive its a 8 quart or so. Its large.

Now, I'm going to ditch the Peanut Port heads for AFR 305cc's. My question to you guys is, Should I get a larger cam? Should I move to a roller cam? This motor will be a high performance street motor, that will see alot of strip when its done. It'll consist of high rear gears (4.11's) a rather lower stall converter i have not became finished on (roughly in the 3K zone) alot of torque, and hopefully peak power near or a little above 6K. Im wondering If i could get feedback on this Cam, and Any idea's on what power i could see if I invested in a 305cc AFR's with this cam. All feedback is welcome.

Edit: One thing i Forget to mention. Im aware that Cast big block stuff is strong, but exactly how strong? I know it'll like the lower RPM's, any "power range" someone can give an estimate on?

Good street BBC, but I would use a roller. Comps 288 was a good one back in the day, but they probably have an updated version that would be better. I wouldn't go much bigger on the cam with the heads and convertor you're looking at. Yes, the cast stuff would be fine, and this same build with the 288 and similar heads was around 600HP+ if I remember right. It was definately a fun and reliable street car.

If you are thinking of changing the cam and can afford it, a retro-fit roller cam would be my choice. Cast crank is easily good for 500 HP or more. An auto tranny is a little easier on the motor than dumping the clutch at the line. If forced induction or nitrous is even remotely a consideration down the road, then you might think about going forged now. If you plan on racing, definitely get forged pistons.

What compression ratio? Carb size? headers? Intake manifold? Need that info to give you an idea of power. With flattop pistons, 750 CFM carb, small tube headers, regular dual plane manifold, and the 292H cam, you're looking at 400 HP and 460 TQ or so with the peanut port heads.

The XR292HR cam will work with a 3000 stall converter, but you'll probably need domed pistons to run 10:1 CR, along with big tube headers, and Victor Jr. single plane intake will bump power another 50 HP.

I don't have flow numbers for the AFR 305. Are you sure you want to go with rectangular port heads for a car that will be street driven? I have flow numbers for AFR 265 Magnum oval port heads (awesome heads by the way) and adding that to the mix results in 560 HP at 6k RPM (better have a good valvetrain like dual springs and titanium retainers).

The AFR 305's flow over 360 @ .600, and flow near 340 @ .500. Thats what gets me so interested in them, that .500 lift number, and i beleive they flow near .287 @ 400 too. They seem to have plenty of low end, even for the rectangle port heads. They are said to be an rpm range of "2500-6500" and with obviously the slightly bigger motor, i think they'll work well from 2K to 6K in my instance. The question is, Do i have enough cam behind it. I will aim for 11.0 compression ratio. I'll most likely go with the Victor JR or super Victor, and I think my HP goal should also be considered. I'm aiming for 600 to 650. I personally think the cam is too small, and not enough RPM behind it. Thats why i question the cast stuff, but it it breaks, guess i can always just replace it. As for transmission questions, its a TH-400.

Ok, I found the flow numbers for your AFR 305 heads. I ran the motor on DD again with AFR 305 heads, 11:1 CR, Victor Jr., 850 carb, big tube headers, and that 292H cam. You're just at 600 HP at 6500 RPM. If your goal is closer to 650 HP, then yeah, you'll need a bigger cam. Maybe a XE292R solid roller cam. I'd also recommend a forged crank if you are gonna be racing and want that many ponies. Maybe you should consider forged stroker kit, it'll be easier to hit your goal without going huge on the cam.

The thing is, it wont be raced, heavily both street and strip. I guess you could say it'll be raced. But it wont be bracketed or anything. This is why im still leaning towards a hydraulic roller.

You can mill the heads for 114cc chambers and use a small dome (18cc) SRP to put you around 11:1. The XE292R cam is a good roller, but may be a little aggressive for a heavy street car (ie: 3600 lbs) without a 3500 stall. Rectangle ports are fine for what you're looking at cam wise. Depending on car weight, torque is your best friend.

......got a 468 BB with a Comp Cams solid roller with .660 intake/.666 exhaust gross valve lift with a duration @ .050 of 254 on the intake and 260 on the exhaust,World Products "Merlin" cast iron rectangle ports with 12.5 to 1 CR and ended up with a 648 horsepower street driven Camaro. Rectangle port,oval port,it's your engine so build it to your specifications. It's always fun to be able to "smoke 'um if you've got 'um.....................
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/1969ProStreetCamaro/MVC-009F.jpg

It's always fun to be able to "smoke 'um if you've got 'um



You got that right Dave!:thumbsup:....And I'm not talking about a car either!:noway:

Prostreet, do you also run pump gas through your 468? That 12.5 to 1 seems high. Love the picture by the way.

In your first post, you said it will see a lot of strip. I thought you meant you'll be racing it a lot. Let's back up a little, 600 HP is a lot of power. If you've never built a big block before, that will also have a ton of torque compared to a small block. On the street, you'll smoke the tires everytime you mash the pedal. A bigger cam will make it less fun to drive on the street. I'd be inclined to throw on those AFR heads you want, and shoot for 10:1 CR so you'll run ok on pump gas without having to be on the cutting edge of tuning. Ok, so that drops you down to 582 HP or so. You'll still have over 400 ft/lbs of torque from 4,000 to 6,500 RPM (532 TQ peak at 5,000, even more if you go with the Performer RPM Air Gap intake). Trust me, you'll be grinning.

Ok batboy, Very well put. I was aware of how much torque AND wheel spin it would get on the street, but maybe to put this into another perspective, are you talking with that flat tappet cam it'll make 582 horsepower, or a bigger cam. I think I should start considering the 1/4 mile times too. Thats the main focus of it. A streetable 1/4 mile monster. I know desktop dyno comes with Dragtime Dyno, could you give me a comparative time it says it would make with the first CAM and AFR heads? How about with a slightly bigger one.
Also I think just the idea that the cam is a tappet and not a roller is bugging me. I bet once I get it in i'll get over it, but i mean, if I were to convert that grind, to a Roller, or something close to it, as the XR294HR for instance, how much power would i be losing?

......got a 468 BB with a Comp Cams solid roller with .660 intake/.666 exhaust gross valve lift with a duration @ .050 of 254 on the intake and 260 on the exhaust


Must be the XR292R cam. The inner boy in me is tempted to slap in the XR280R into a 496 stroker with 10:1 CR. Personally, a mere 600 HP is fine for me.

With aluminum heads and enough duration (overlap) you can get away with a little more compression than normal. My 496 is just under 11:1 and made 732HP (on Superflo dyno)with 93 octane pump gas. It drives ok on the street (no overheating problems) and is not too bad at cruising rpm. Granted I do not drive it everyday, but it can hold it's own in traffic around town. I run a 1050 Dominator, Victor intake, Dart Pro 1 335cc CNC heads, cam is 268/272 @ .050, 3.90 gear. I would not recommend this combo, unless you are pretty hardcore like me. I race more than street drive, so it's not too bad for weekend hell raisin!

Prostreet, do you also run pump gas through your 468? That 12.5 to 1 seems high. Love the picture by the way.

110 octane. Thanks!!!

Must be the XR292R cam. The inner boy in me is tempted to slap in the XR280R into a 496 stroker with 10:1 CR. Personally, a mere 600 HP is fine for me.

:yes: it's the XR292R

I don't have the Drag sim installed. If you know the race weight of your car, the below listed 1/4 mile calculator will get you into the ballpark if you use the flywheel HP and rear wheel drive. For example, if the car with gas and you in it weighs 3600 lbs. and you plug in 580 HP, that will give you 10.7 ET (assuming you can hook at the line). My fastest time ever down the track is 11.88 in my GTO. Hoping my Camaro can beat it when it's built.

http://www.web-cars.com/math/qtr_mile.html

You got that right Dave!:thumbsup:....And I'm not talking about a car either!:noway:


l:). :beers:(with lime wedges:yes:)

Yeah ive checked the quartermile calculators, not the best. Appreciate the comment. Im hoping for the 10.5 area. Maybe the weight can be dropped.

For every 100 lbs. removed, you'll typically gain .1 ET. My program doesn't have specs for roller rockers and stuff like that. Those little things will add HP too.

My local track makes you put a roll cage in at 11.5 ET. Not sure I want to do do the roll cage thing. Although, might be fun to rip off a 10 second pass and get kicked off the track for not having a cage.

Alright got one. Haha. Im getting ready for getting kicked out at the 9's.

Here is a little motivation for ya. This guy drives his car on the street fairly regular, pump gas capable, on aprox. 11" M/T ET Streets. The video is a little old, it runs in the high 8's now, still on 93 oct. He is sprayin it by the way.
http://www.hotrod.com/multimedia/hot_rod_videos/6200294/the-2004-pump-gas-drags-schmitt-kicking-a-video/index.html

One last question: Does anyone recommend the 4.250 stroke? I know More torque in a street car is better, but some say that big of stroke is too hard to get to the ground. I do already have a crankshaft, but i wouldnt mind spending the extra few for a new cast one. It will also lower the RPM range, which I think would be nice for the street car, and gives it more cubic inchs, maybe a few more horsepower. So any recommendations on this?

There's no replacement for displacement. Sure, why not. That's what I'm gonna do, get a forged stroker kit.

You might want to look at this 496 engine kit. I think its the best deal going. Open link on the right. http://www.racingjunk.com/post/1289643/BB-CHEVY-496-ROTATING-ASSEMBLY-4340-FORGED.html

Ron 92Camaro :beers: