I was just wondering if this was normal and would still be ok. When using head bolts I just cover the threads of the bolts with the white permatex thread sealer and screw them and without ever having had problems. I started to screw in my head studs and noticed that most of the sealer is seeping out and has to be wiped off the deck of the block before I put on the head gasket. Should I just wipe off the excess that squeezes out or should I do something differently

Sounds like u are smearing on a lot more than what is needed...wipe the access off

Use good old Permatex, "Indianhead Shellac Gasket Cement" and go!

Daub it on the threads thick and let it drip.

It's made for this and I don't care what Permatex tell's us it's supposed to be used for b/c the darn stuff has worked for me for more years than I care to remember!

It's messy tho and hard to remove later...

pdq67

Use good old Permatex, "Indianhead Shellac Gasket Cement" and go!

Daub it on the threads thick and let it drip.

It's made for this and I don't care what Permatex tell's us it's supposed to be used for b/c the darn stuff has worked for me for more years than I care to remember!

It's messy tho and hard to remove later...

pdq67
through my searching of this forum, i think i've seen you reccomend this stuff atleast 100x haha

through my searching of this forum, i think i've seen you reccomend this stuff atleast 100x haha
he mentions it almost as much as his 13" front brake swap with a pickup truck caliper..

...wipe the access off

Now that is creative...

through my searching of this forum, i think i've seen you reccomend this stuff atleast 100x haha
Yes but some people have not taken the use of this stuff in , I know what the instructions say but the stuff works , and seals. I used the teflon, and Arp sealer, I had leaks in stud. Use sparingly.

pdq67 shellac was used before teflon was around, for decades, and since and works fine.
Teflon works just as well

The advantage with teflon, is over many yrs/decades, when pulling the bolts the sealant is broked easier.

In both cases the threads have to be clean and dry.

It's like guys want a sweet street engine so they install a 285 cam when a 270 will do them GREAT!!

pdq67

I have seen a few problems with the white paste over the years. It isn't as resistant to wash out by coolant. we did a 502 marine engine with a paxton blower for a marine customer. Used permatex pst on the threads of the head studs. Ran it on the dyno and had several leaks around the stud nuts. On teardown we saw that the pst had washed out. Now we only use the aviation sealer or hylomar on the threads. No problems since.

when you apply the hylomar do you just apply it and screw them on or do you apply it and let it set first?

GEEZ!

Nothing simpler than old "Indianhead Shellac Gasket Cement"!

pdq67

I just rub the thread across the opening of the hylomar tube. This way it gets to the root of the thread and doesn't goop it up. Then I thread them into the block hand tight. That's it!

I use locktie plumbers teflon thread sealant.
It doesnt go rock hard in the tube like shellac does over time lol

Permatex aviation sealant #3 or #2 is all I've ever used on head bolts, never a problem. I've used the Hylomar on my Hewland transaxle, it's a bit thinner than the Permatex #2 and I've had some leaks with it, so went back to #2.

I have seen a few problems with the white paste over the years. It isn't as resistant to wash out by coolant. we did a 502 marine engine with a paxton blower for a marine customer. Used permatex pst on the threads of the head studs. Ran it on the dyno and had several leaks around the stud nuts. On teardown we saw that the pst had washed out. Now we only use the aviation sealer or hylomar on the threads. No problems since.


There are several different Permatex thread sealers. You have to use the right one for the application. The type I use is NOT the PST paste. The Permatex High Temp Sealer I use is a cream not a paste, very smooth not gritty or chunky. I have used it for years and never once had a leak. I don't like the paste type sealers (which is what the old ARP stuff was).