hey guy ive got a block that i plan on building this summer and im trying to get a bunch of things on paper and get as much advice as i can.Im still debating on what im going to put it in (70s camaro vs 70 nova) .But anyways the block is a virgin 3970010 4 bolt 350 that i pulled from a family owned vehicle that wasnt ever pushed with 77,000 miles.I really dont wont to over do what it can handle but ever1 tells me its a good start. im set on using eagles 2 grand forged kit comes with a forged crank,-16 pistons, and 5.7 3d hbeam rods. the bottom and tops both getting studs,cause i like taking apart/breaking things. dont know what cam to get yet, afr recomended me there new 64cc 210 eliminaters.im going to have a 750or800 holley and a perf. rpm airgap.some of the things im worried bout besides the block cracking are what type of cam, hydrolic solid, rolla or flat. it is going to be driven to the track (30 miles of street a week max) and i have no problem adjusting valves every now and then.i have bent all my exh. valves in my 402 before by over reving and since then i havent been real fond of hyd cams.and what kind of extra machine work is involved in a solid roller.also i do plan on spraying 120 to 200 shot to it but with my cr around 10.5 is this a safe area to be spraying i wouldnt mind adding a little race fuel before passing.im going to be around 0 altitude. also could someone explain to me dcr and how do you calculate that.thats to everyone

Comp ca XR286HR would be a good cam for the 383 and AFR 210 Heads. 750 DBL pumper/or custom carb would be better (AEM, proform). You can yous the spray since its forged but gap the rings accordingl and make sure they are good rings. I like Hellfire the best but Kings are pretty good too. You can do the same cam I suggested if you want to set the lash pretty frequent for the racing. on the street it wouldnt be that bad cause its not being worked so hard. Using VP100 oct at the track wouldnt be a bad idea dial back the timing for it and the spray accordingly.

DCR calculator is at the bottom half of the page.

http://www.projectpontiac.com/ppsite/content/view/16/30/

GOOD LUCK! let us know whats going on as you do it!

Sounds like you got my basic set up but with shorter rods. One thing I would begin with is to mock up everything or do the math, and deck the block, square it up with crank centerlines.
Mine is not a racer but on the edge of one, using one of Ud Harold's billet grinds and hyd rollers. I do lots of street long distance cruising. Carb choice is good. I have an 850 that I tried, made the car scream but it lacked some driveability, went back to 750 .

Take a look at some of the Kits in Competition Products

I'd reconsider the -16cc pistons. Using a 0.045" total quench and the 64 cc heads, they give you a 9.75:1 SCR. Put any sort of performance cam in there and your DCR gets down to the low 7's, when you want to be in the low 8's, particularly with aluminum heads

I'd reconsider the -16cc pistons. Using a 0.045" total quench and the 64 cc heads, they give you a 9.75:1 SCR. Put any sort of performance cam in there and your DCR gets down to the low 7's, when you want to be in the low 8's, particularly with aluminum heads

Exactly what I was thinking. I ran 11.3:1 with a tight quench and flat tops for 5 years and never had any detonation issues (of course that doesn't include me doing stupid stuff to cause detonation). Put a solid roller in it (Comp XR286 comes to mind, that's what I ran) and you have an easy 500+ HP (probably closer to 550). With a vacuum can it will work with power brakes and idle decent at 850-900 RPM in gear.

As for spraying, you can use a separate tank with race fuel in it or fill it up with the good stuff on race day. That is what I always did and it worked fine.

I'd reconsider the -16cc pistons. Using a 0.045" total quench and the 64 cc heads, they give you a 9.75:1 SCR. Put any sort of performance cam in there and your DCR gets down to the low 7's, when you want to be in the low 8's, particularly with aluminum heads

I agree with Mike and Eric, and will add a "been there, stuck with that"

I initially built my 383 at 9.5:1 with those pistons.

When I decided to "turn up the wick" I needed more compression.
I ended up purchasing brand new AFR195, milled to 60cc's at the factory.
That's a painful way to get 10.5:1.

I like more than 45 quench. I can be called lucky I guess, but Ive ran 10.8:1, 11.3:1 and had the same quench on both motors, .033. They were pretty big stroker SBC's too. I love a good stroker...:D

I like my quench a little tight too. .035 is probably a real good spot to be.

May I ask b/c of the stroker 383..

Anybody hopping up the GM 383 stroker that's 4.0" b x 3.8" s vs the 4.03" b x 3.75" s engines??

pdq67

thanks to everyone who is helping my out with my build sheet. the kit does come with optional pistons if i was to go with 6 inch rods i could use the -5 flats but i was under the impression that with 6" h beams i would have to do some clearanceing.and read that it would be more sturdy with the longer rod.i really dont plan to go all out with this setup just a really fast street setup 10.5 secs. or somewere close hopefully my next build will be a strip only but my 97 lt1 daily drive wont help with getting it to the track so until i get something to pull my toys around im stayin with a street/strip setup.also i dont plan going over 6500 rpm.appriciate everything guys.

I like my quench a little tight too. .035 is probably a real good spot to be.

I agree, I was just trying not to overstate the "low compression" case.

I have a setup almost the same as yours but I have 6 inch rods and 10.6 to 1 compression. I am running comp cams 12-772-8 which is good from 3k to 7k maybe more in my setup. I am hoping for 520 maybe more at the wheels and over 600 at the flywheel. I am spinning mine up pretty high though and am all solid roller.

If you going with that much power have the cylinders sonic tested for thickness, and maybe look into some billet center caps either 4 bolt replacements or splayed center caps with the added stroke and high horse power it would be asking alot of stock grey cast caps, Unlees you blocks has the 2482 center caps.

If you looking at a rotator check into the Callies Compstar crank and rods and the Mahle Pistons and they 6 inch rod pistons use no spacer rings and you can get one of those kits for the same price.

We do a lot of balancing for a local shops and other engines builders and we have not been impressed with their journal sizing and straightness.

If you block is not up to par the Dart SHP is a good choice. Here is a link on the block.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12112

Plus the SHP is set up for the factory roller set up and that kit is appox. 250.00 with roller lifter, spider, and tie bars.

Good luck with your build Carl

thanks carl i do plan on using some aftermarket main caps bet some1 told me that if i splayed my 4 bolt it wouldnt be as strong as a 2 bolt that was converted and splayed.also i was told that with arp studs and some milodon capswould be fine. i really dont wont to use a dart block yet cause my plan was to complete my pump gas motor move to a high cr race gas motor and then a supercharged alcohol bb. maybe injected or something but def. using dart on the future plans.And a few more ?s i just finished my auto class and my teacher wouldnt get into perf. to much but i plan on uti in the next year.so until then yall can guide me.#1 do i have to use a button\thick tcover with a hyd. roller.#2 do i have to machine oil grooves in the lifter bores or clearence the bores 4 the links.#3 is a hyd roller good to 6500.#4 can some clear up all this talk about quench area.#5my impression is that scr doesnt mean jack its all dcr?right or wrong thanks guys for all your input learning from others experince saves so much time/money.

another thing carl i checked out these callies people seems to good to be true just wondering why this isnt a common name brand. and what kind of punishment youve seen there rods/cranks handle.

Callies cranks are pretty good stuff. There are better out there but Ive never had a Callies crank give me ANY trouble whatsoever.

I'll agree with that. I'm using the Callies Compstar in my new 427 build and it measured out perfect. Nice work on the counterweights too.

another thing carl i checked out these callies people seems to good to be true just wondering why this isnt a common name brand. and what kind of punishment youve seen there rods/cranks handle.

The Callies cranks have been around longer then Eagle and Scat and only in the last few years did the come out with the Compstar line and we use some of their stuff in our circle track builds with no issues.

The Callies name isnt popular because most people are into how they can spend less and not about quality. Eagle cranks are way too heavy and the machine work is marginal at best. If you have the means, I agree with the Callies crank, definitely get a solid roller or hydraulic roller....and the reason you most likely bent valves wasnt becasue of the hydraulic cam..it was probably more due to inadequate spring pressures. Crane has an awesome hydraulic roller that comes already cut with a 1.040 base circle for extra clearance that you will usually need for a stroker setup with a roller. Ive easliy made 525 hp with this cam in a 383 with GM Fast Burns. The AFRs you atre looking at are way better than those. As far as clearancing the block, no matter what rods you use, you are gonna have to clearance it....the h beams usually do require more clearancing but hey....THATS ENGINE BUILDING!...:thumbsup:

im pretty sure it was the cam type i free reved the motor to 7 grand and i didnt test the spring. (should have) but it does have double springs with low miles. its in my 85 k10 with 11 inches of lift and i dont see the need for that motor to see over 4500 rpms. oh and its old all the part numbers in the block were not used bye the companies anymore cam was i belive cc-180-10h the pistons were some huge domes with no valve reliefs 4 got the numbers but look like http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/_images/products/high_comp-dome_l.jpg
these and i have 101cc heads not sure how its not pingin but it ait so im happy. i was told that it was a 427 stroker but i know it takes alot to this to a 402 and dont care to drop the pan again. o yea what about the cam button with roller setup guy?

im pretty sure it was the cam type i free reved the motor to 7 grand and i didnt test the spring. (should have) but it does have double springs with low miles. its in my 85 k10 with 11 inches of lift and i dont see the need for that motor to see over 4500 rpms. oh and its old all the part numbers in the block were not used bye the companies anymore cam was i belive cc-180-10h the pistons were some huge domes with no valve reliefs 4 got the numbers but look like http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/_images/products/high_comp-dome_l.jpg
these and i have 101cc heads not sure how its not pingin but it ait so im happy. i was told that it was a 427 stroker but i know it takes alot to this to a 402 and dont care to drop the pan again. o yea what about the cam button with roller setup guy?

Well along with retrofit roller lifters, yes, you will need to run a cam button and cam lock plate. They are easy to install but you have to use either an ealy stle timing cover that has a star shape in the center or an aftermarket one. COmp has a reasonably prices stock style cover with a reinforced center for the button.