Matt M. had posted a similar Thread a while back.
I thought it was a great post, but was not specific to each year and car.
Him and I thought doing each year was a good idea, so I am Posting the 67. I am doing this one a little different. Trying to make this one not the dump stuff that we all have forgetten at one time, but the stuff that you would not know unless you have rebuilt a 67 before. I have started with 2 below. They are things that you would never know unless someone told you first or you got lucky. If you are not sure, post it anyway. We have all forgot the goofy stuff and that is where Matt M. 's thread is really good. Don't you hate that when you put in your oil pump without the shaft. I have done it. LOL Obviously some of these have overlap for 68 and 69's.

Give title & list your options and motor size: (copy and paste) Pictures are great help also.

Title: Try to put in Title what is the KEY WORK OF THE PROBLEM. Like in the first one, the key word is really the HEAT BOX. You will most likely be thinking about the heat box way before you think about the kick panel if you have the car apart. So really BOTH are key words.
Motor Size: R/S: SS: A/C: Console: Trans: Other:

Do NOT install your Heat Box & A/C Box unless you have installed the Passenger Kick Panel First.

Motor: 327
R/S: yes
Factory A/C: yes
Trans: Powerglide

You will NEVER get the passenger kick panel in the car once the heat box is installed. I could not find a good picture to show the problem, but the large part that installs into the Body is too thick and the Heat box is in the way. This is NOT a problem on the drivers side.
http://store.heartbeatcity.net/store/product/16168/Kick-panel%2C-w-AC%2C-RH/

You must install your Y Defrost Duct before you put in your Heat Box or your Steering Column:

Motor: 327
R/S: yes
Factory A/C: yes
Trans: Powerglide
Has Console

It is just too big to install without ONE of these out. If you think removing the console bracket will give you that extra space, it won't. It is a good idea, but just a waste of time.
http://store.heartbeatcity.net/store/product/16283/Defroster-outlet-V-duct/

great thread!!!

Don’t forget to install the Power Steering Bracket before you put in the Motor:

Applicable to all small block V8s.

This one was a headache. I forgot to install the power steering bracket that goes between the motor and motor mount. Luckily, I had an engine hoist and I hadn’t installed the carb. I was able to unbolt the motor (driver’s side) and lift it enough to install the mount.

Thanks Dale.

Hi Matt!!!!
Is this the bracket?
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/PSP-14.jpg

Hi Matt!!!!
Is this the bracket?

I think so. Thanks for the picture.

Don’t forget to test fit the RS grille and headlight doors before paint.

Applicable to ’67 RS.

I have one more. Another member and I had a long discussion about the RS grille and headlight assembly. Don’t forget to pre-fit everything before you paint. I purchased a new RS grille kit from CI and I had to tweak it for a good fit. The hide-a-way doors didn’t line up very well and I had to pull them out and re-install a few times. This is tricky when doing it over new paint.

Don’t forget to drill the RS park light holes in new inner fender wells.

Applicable to ’67 RS with new inner fender wells.

I purchased new inner fender wells (driver’s and passenger’s). They don’t have holes for the park light cables (cable and grommet). I had to drill the holes after the car was painted. It can be done, but it’s a tight fit. There isn’t much room for the drill.

And . . . if you’re installing new inner fender wells, don’t forget to install the splash shields. It’s tough to do after everything is assembled.

I really like this thread... keep'em coming!

Check continuity on your '67 ignition switch before upgrading to a min-starter.


I installed a newer style mini-starter on my 383. The starter only has two wires, not three like the original. I taped the yellow wire that goes back to the coil. I’ve read that some ’67 ignition switches do not power the coil when the key is in the 'start' position. Voltage from the starter (via the yellow wire) provides power until the key is switched to 'run'. Everything works until you get rid of the yellow wire (i.e. mini-starter).

I checked continuity on my ’67 ignition switch and it does send 12-volts to the coil in the start position. I got lucky.

If you install a new rear body panel (rear sheet metal), you may run into a 67/68 lock problem.


I ordered a new rear body panel for my ’67. I can’t remember which vendor, but I think they are all the same. Turns out, it’s really a ’68 rear body panel and the ’67 and ’68 lock holes are slightly different. As a result, my ’67 trunk lock didn’t fit into the hole. I had to order a new ’68 trunk lock to fix the problem. I ordered the complete lock set which didn’t turn out too well either. The ’68 ignition switch is different than a ’67 so the ’68 key mechanism didn’t fit in my ’67 switch. Ah, the joy of it all.

Rear-outer bumper brackets


I couldn’t think of any ’67-only problems the other day. Now, the juices are flowing and the painful memories are coming in waves. Anyway . . .

Don’t toss your old bumper brackets (if you have them). I purchased new rear brackets and a new rear bumper. I tried to install everything and I couldn’t get the rear outside brackets to fit. It wasn’t a matter of being off by a ½-inch or so, they were way off—so much so that I couldn’t even tell what side they fit on. I wasn’t able to fix the problem so I’m running without rear outside brackets.

If you need these brackets, I’d look on e-bay for a set of originals. The re-pops are re-poop.


Related to the above, take lots and lots of picture during disassembly. Label and bag everything that comes off the car. I didn’t take enough pictures when I pulled everything apart and I spent hours and hours researching stuff. Two notable examples are: 1) the little bracket that holds the gas line to the frame (near the tank), and 2) the brake light bracket that attaches to the brake pedal. I didn’t tag & bag those and, therefore, spent hours trying to figure out what was missing.

Shoulder belt bolt-hole locations on a ’67.


This one is both a request and a reminder.

Request: If you haven’t installed your headliner in your ’67, can you take some pictures of the roof and sail panel and post them. The pictures should show the location of the bolt holes for the shoulder belts. On this site, I found pictures showing the bolt-hole locations for ’68 and ’69, but I didn’t see a picture for ’67.

Reminder: If you are installing a new headliner, install all the bolts and screws so you can feel them underneath the headliner. This has been covered a number of times. The only unique thing is the ’67 shoulder belt bolt locations.

Motor: 327
R/S: yes
Factory A/C: no
Trans: Powerglide (when it was stock)
Convertible: yes
Power Top: yes
Power windows: yes

The driver's side kick panel isn't going any where without taking out the parking brake. If you have a stick car it can be removed (and installed) without taking out the clutch pedal. Just a bit tough. Can't remember if the fuse box gets in the way.

The dash gauge carrier (and every thing behind it) isn't going any where either without dropping the steering column if the steering wheel is attached. And it's much simpler to drop the column than remove the wheel.

The convertible top needs to come out to change the top cylinders. Same for the quarter glass window motor/regulator assemblies since the cylinders are in the way (I think?). Not to forget the convertible rear supports (http://images.nitrosell.com/product_images/2/437//bdy-1525.jpg) will hinder the motor/regulator assem. coming out. I think that's all correct. Been a few months since I went through the trouble of replacing everything concerning my conv. top. If nothing else install all the power top components before you have a new top put on the top frame. Gives you a lot more working room.

Shoulder belt bolt-hole locations on a ’67.


This one is both a request and a reminder.

Request: If you haven’t installed your headliner in your ’67, can you take some pictures of the roof and sail panel and post them. The pictures should show the location of the bolt holes for the shoulder belts. On this site, I found pictures showing the bolt-hole locations for ’68 and ’69, but I didn’t see a picture for ’67.

Here you go Matt. I am not sure which hole it is; can you tell?
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj28/DaralJ/67%20RS%20SS350/April262007031.jpg

Once your Door Glass (not vent window) has been removed, you must install the SMALL GUIDE with felt at the top BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE GLASS:

If you remove your glass on your front doors, the small guide with the felt up close to the lock MUST be installed before the glass goes in if you remove IT. If you don't, "you will not really need it on your car anymore!!!!!!." LOL!!!
This is a small L shaped bracket real close to the lock button on the top of the door. If you remove it to restore it, put it back in immediately after you are done.
I looked for a picture that I had of it but I could not find one. Maybe someone else has a picture of it.

Dale - I am not sure what L shaped bracket you are talking about. Is that bracket inside the door or "on the top" (outside)? Do you see it in this pic?
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj28/DaralJ/67%20RS%20SS350/DSC035051.jpg

Here is a pic of the inside lock mechanism. Do you see it here?
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj28/DaralJ/67%20RS%20SS350/DSC035561.jpg

Daral,http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/CamaroARTtiny.jpg

I have pointed to its location and took a picture of it from D&R Classic Parts House in Warrenville Illinois. I think I was thinking it was L shaped because it has some tabs on it. It is mostly flat. Maybe you can remove yours and take a picture of it before you clean it up. It is inside the door and it is held in by 1 small bolt. I did not re-felt mine. They were not too bad. If you take them out to restore them, Put the picture on your "DOOR BOX" so you don't forget them.
When you re-install it, push it as far as it goes to the INSIDE of the car. You can adjust it after you get the glass in. You just can not get it in or out with the glass in. I would call it more of a stablizer than a guide, although on some doors it does become a guide.
If you turn the picture of it 90 degrees counter clockwise, that is how it fits into the door.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/DSC035051a.jpg

Daral, thanks for the picture.

The shoulder belt holes are inline with the quarter window weather-stripping. (The three horizontal holes.) The two outer holes are used to bolt up the shoulder loop. (I went with an aftermarket belt and they bolted right up.)

The two vertical screw holes above the center of the quarter window are for the coat hanger hook.

Dale - Here is a better pic. I think the window guide you are talking about bolts to the forked tab at the top inside part of the door.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj28/DaralJ/67%20RS%20SS350/DSC035571.jpg

Don't forget to install the gas pedal before installing the engine

dont forget to fill up the gas tank before going on your first ride :clonk:

Yes Daral,

That is it. I circled it in your picture below. Thanks for the picture.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/DSC035571a.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/SMALLEST.jpgAfter you remove your steering column, make sure where ever you set it, that it has this rubber donut installed on the bottom of it. Leave it there, tape it there, what ever you have to do to NOT forget it.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/SteeringDonut.jpgRicks HR-28
If you have not ordered a new one, order it now so that you DO NOT FORGET IT.
If you don't you will get your steering column back in the car, and then realize that you will have to completely remove it again to install it. Major Pain in the rear.
Don't forget to order NOW the new column to firewall seal: WS-63

67-69

If reassembling front suspension, install sway bar FIRST.

^^^^^^^^^^^

Beacause it becomes very difficult (but not impossible) to snake the swaybar through the assembled suspension components, esp with a large diameter bar.

Don't forget to leave a deposit and sign a deal when you want to buy a sweet 1967 SS/RS with every option under the sun and have the seller sell it from under you for more money. A hand shake means nothing these days - now I'm stuck with a '69!! :)

While at the bone yard searching for that one last piece, don't set your tool box down......to get a better look at the car three cars over
Or even worse walk all the way back to the office with part in hand and tool box back at the donor....

When ordering brake lines use the last 6 digits of the serial number when they ask if it is before or after 135000. I used the first 6 digits and they were all wrong.
Thanks to Right Stuff, they exchanged them for the right lines even though I got them from two other suppliers.

Roger, aren't there only 2 different ones?
One with a long line from front to rear. And, one with 2 lines from front to rear?

Dale:
The earlier 67s with manual drum brakes before 135000 have the rear brake line coming from the side of the master cylinder going to the side of the switch block then exiting the switch block to the rear of the car from the back of the switch block.
The later 67s with manual drum brakes after 135000 have the rear brake line coming from the side of the master cylinder going to the back of the switch block then it exits the left side of the switch block going to the rear of the car.
On my car there are seven different brake line and all the 67s with manual drum brakes have a one-piece brake line going from the switch block to the rear of the car.
Does that make it clear as mud?
Roger

It was my understanding that whether you had A/C or not affected what brake line you had also. Is that not true??

Don’t forget to install the Power Steering Bracket before you put in the Motor:

Applicable to all small block V8s.

This one was a headache. I forgot to install the power steering bracket that goes between the motor and motor mount. Luckily, I had an engine hoist and I hadn’t installed the carb. I was able to unbolt the motor (driver’s side) and lift it enough to install the mount.

Thanks Dale.

The ear on that bracket doesn't go between the motormount and the block - it goes on top of the mount, between the bolt head and the mount. If you put it between the mount and the block, the mount will be misaligned. :thumbsup:

when drilling the holes for fender emblems put them side by side for compairison, my fenders were npd units and the "camaro" emblem holes came pre drilled, they were 3/8 inch different in relation to the body line witch i didnt notice and lined my 396 emblems in the wrong location !!!(fenders on the car) with the fenders on the floor side by side you could see the difference so i had to fill some holes:mad:
good luck scott

Brass Oil Pressure Fitting on Cowl:

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/P3020016b.jpg
Console
RS
327
It is easier to connect this Brass Fitting to the cowl while the dash is apart and you have full access. It is a 2 man job either way.
Also, It is MUCH easier to connect the OIL Pressure LINE when you have less in your dash or your dash completely apart. A real pain to do when the interior/Dash is all done.
This brass fitting was on 67's before mid May. I have found no one that sells it, if you don't have it.
Make sure the fitting has not been drilled out, If it has, tightening the Line down is not a problem, you just push the new line through. If it has not been drilled out the hole will not be much bigger than 3/32nd drill bit, I tried finding a 7/64, but could not. I think that 7/64 is about the original size. If yours has NOT been drilled out, DO NOT do so.

Go Back to #19.
Here is the Original Door Guide.
Now you see why I remembered it to be L shaped.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/Pb120002.jpg
Make SURE you install it before glass!!

You must install your Y Defrost Duct before you put in your Heat Box or your Steering Column:

Motor: 327
R/S: yes
Factory A/C: yes
Trans: Powerglide
Has Console

It is just too big to install without ONE of these out. If you think removing the console bracket will give you that extra space, it won't. It is a good idea, but just a waste of time.
http://store.heartbeatcity.net/store/product/16283/Defroster-outlet-V-duct/

WHY WHY WHY!! didnt I read this thread before? Guess what i'll be removing tonight!:(

WIRING
Dash Harness: No one makes the "Original."

If you are replacing your dash harness, all that is sold is the Replacement Harness. That is what GM sold over the years to replace your original if something happened to it. It is generic and all encompassing. If you are actually wanting to have a harness that MATCHES your original, you have to tell the wire makers what you want, or just send your old original one in with the new one and they will convert it. But, remember, if you are wanting to change (add) some options, the replacement is already ready to accept those options.

Rear Tail Light Harness: The wire companies make really nice matching harnesses that match perfect except one thing. No one makes the metal bulb housings (at least that I could find). If yours are in good shape, you can send them back to the manufacturer and they will put them on for you. If yours are bad, you are stuck with these plastic ones. You kind of wonder why none of these harness companies are able to repoduce them???????
If anyone knows where you can get these original metal ones, please let us know. Thanks!

HI, on a 67,
these are what i found at napa for sockets
reverse socket #ls6542 one wire metal socket

brake and tail socket # ls6245 this one is a metal socket with a rubber cover that can be removed, has two wires

none of these pop out like the plastic ones and are keyed like the originals
good luck scott:yes:

This is great---how about one for a 68. I am starting to work on mine and need all the help I can get

I think you will find there are not many differences between the 67 & 68. If there are, I can not wait to see that thread and what those differences are.

Thanks Scott, but you transposed the numbers on one of them above. I called Napa and the correct part for anyone else looking, so they are not confused, is is6542. Thanks again! That is a big help Scott.

You are right about that--I have picked up many hints reading this one that apply to my 68. The one about the defrost duct is a perfect example.

OPPPPPPPPPPPPS
sorry dale i guess you can never be to carefull.
guess this means im getting old!!:noway:
glad to help
scott

Passenger Kick Panel MUST be Sealed as you are installing it. Read #2 also.

You Must Seal the drivers side too, but once your car is back together, you will not be able to go back and seal the passenger side if you have factory air. The drivers side is nothing compared to the impossibility of the passenger side. You are trying to keep the outside water from getting around it where it comes through the hole. Don't think that this is not a big problem, it was on these cars. Don't worry about putting on too much 3M strip caulk or dumb-dumb putty. There are other sealants you can use also.

Wish I could make this #3 in this thread and I can not believe that I did not put this info with #2.

If you are going to put STEREO SPEAKERS down here, it is a good time to look at it, mark where you would put the holes, and have the speaker wires already installed. You can make a template now so that you know where the hole is in the center of the speaker location and work out from there.

This is great---how about one for a 68. I am starting to work on mine and need all the help I can get

Hey Man,

Best advice if you are just starting work, take pictures all over, at every angle you can think of. You'll be happy later. Especially line routing, window parts, all under the hood and trim.

Enjoy!!!

Hey Man,

Best advice if you are just starting work, take pictures all over, at every angle you can think of. You'll be happy later. Especially line routing, window parts, all under the hood and trim.

Enjoy!!!
Good advise on Bill's picture taking.. but take lots, and close ups. I did the former, but not the latter...and many didn't help for later reference!

Also, be sure an label ALL the baggies right away! Don't say to yourself, tomorrow...or later on in the week. Trust me on this one, eh?

Finally...always check to see if you've left something in the engine/hood area BEFORE closing the hood. No comment req'd on this one.:o

capt

WIRING
Dash Harness: No one makes the "Original."

If you are replacing your dash harness, all that is sold is the Replacement Harness. That is what GM sold over the years to replace your original if something happened to it. It is generic and all encompassing. If you are actually wanting to have a harness that MATCHES your original, you have to tell the wire makers what you want, or just send your old original one in with the new one and they will convert it. But, remember, if you are wanting to change (add) some options, the replacement is already ready to accept those options.

Are the AAW/M&H harnesses that "off" for the 67s? Ive used them on quite a few cars and they've been good.

Both Companies are really good. Really Good!! BOTH!!

I am not sure you understand what I wrote with what you wrote? IF YOU BUY THEIR DASH WIRE HARNESS, WHAT YOU WILL GET IS THE EQUIVALENT OF THE GM "REPLACEMENT" HARNESS. The GM Replacement Harness was to cover a car with every single option. This way they did not have to make & stock all the different harnesses that they made. If you want the extra wires eliminated, you will have to send the new harness back to the MANUFACTURER (Like M&H) and they will fix it for you. You can do it yourself also. If you are a purist, without the NOS harness, you will have to have the harness converted.

If you have already installed them in 67's, then you already know that you have extra wires left when you get done. Again, Only a big deal if you are a purist. If you are not, don't worry about the extra wires at all.

Dave, it does not create a problem, it is just a fact. You said you did not realize they "were that off." They are not off, they are an exact GM Replacement Harness. Unfortunately, the GM Replacement Harness was not a copy of what you had in your car unless you had ALL options. In 67, as they were making the cars, they made different wires harnesses for different car option. Today, they only make one wiring harness, the GM REPLACEMENT EQUIVALENT. Hopefully, this helps you understand it.

Haven't used an MH in several years, but AAW offeres different harnesses pertaining to the specific options of the car.

I haven't used every harness they make of course, but those that I have didn't have any extra wires. Maybe I just got lucky on the applications I used them in.

Great Thread...!

American wire is the best.All the ends are there fit perfet.Just tell then every option that you have.Every wire is label.Front and rear fit great.Ok heres mine if you want to install a passenger side mirror do it before you install the passenger door panel.I had the deluxe door panels so you know that little 1/4 screw in the handle yes it had to come out again.

on 69's dont install fenders before lower windshield molding,you cant install the screws in the a piller.

Yes you can! It is Hard, but you can do it.

Do NOT install your Heat Box & A/C Box unless you have installed the Passenger Kick Panel First.

Motor: 327
R/S: yes
Factory A/C: yes
Trans: Powerglide

You will NEVER get the passenger kick panel in the car once the heat box is installed. I could not find a good picture to show the problem, but the large part that installs into the Body is too thick and the Heat box is in the way. This is NOT a problem on the drivers side.
http://store.heartbeatcity.net/store/product/16168/Kick-panel%2C-w-AC%2C-RH/

I have a question on this. I need to replace the kick panels on my 68 Coupe-no air conditioning-because the extensions that go up from the main part of the kick panels are not on either panel. Am I going to have to remove the heater box to do this? You also said on page 3 that a person should not forget to seal it with plumbers putty or something similar. What is it that needs to be sealed? This is sounding like there is more to it than just taking off the old and putting on the new.

Deerhunter, the standard heater box wont interfere with installing the kick panel...think it's just an A/C thing or maybe '67 A/C thing. The putty goes around the oval shaped vent on the kick panel to keep water that's entered from the cowl, out of the interior.

Willard, I dont know what screws are "correct" but if ya use a hex headed type, a small wrench works good.... that is if you can get your fat fingers in to get it started:)

If you are replacing the dash pad, make sure to do it BEFORE you reinstall the gauge carrier, glove box liner and heater controls. Guess what I get to do tomorrow??? :(

Deerhunter, the standard heater box wont interfere with installing the kick panel...think it's just an A/C thing or maybe '67 A/C thing. The putty goes around the oval shaped vent on the kick panel to keep water that's entered from the cowl, out of the interior.

Willard, I dont know what screws are "correct" but if ya use a hex headed type, a small wrench works good.... that is if you can get your fat fingers in to get it started:)

Thank you for the reply. That makes me feel a lot better!

BODY PARTS, BOLTS, CLIPS, ETC.

Car goes to BODY SHOP.
You do not always know what they are going to replace.
You might think your fenders are staying, you might think your quarters are staying, it does not make a difference. Make an agreement that WHATEVER they take off the car they will give back to you. I know this, I always say it, and always forget something. Along with this, REALLY, remove everything. You want NOTHING on the car when you give it to the body shop.

When I gave mine to the body shop, I did not plan on them replacing the inner fenders. They did. I did not ask them to save them and now I have to figure out where the A/C Line holes go. I also had the original bolts on the rear end. Had them sand blast the rear end and paint it. Got new bolts, not my originals. The problem is that the guy you talk to does not do all the work on the car. That is easy to forget also.

On this same topic. If the NEW part is sent to the body shop have them Inspect it for "close" to correct!!!!?????? And, yes, that is very subjective and it assumes they know what to look for. Example: My Camaro needed a new partial trunk pan. The new pan came with a hole (pre-drilled by manufacturer) that is considerably larger that the original hole for the rubber grommet. My guess is that all of them are not like that and maybe the one that I got was even returned by someone that did not like it. But, the point is, if the body shop would have looked at the hole and measured it they could have sent it back. Now I have to deal with correcting this situation. I would be surprised if D&R in Warrenville Illinois that I got it from had no idea that they were selling some this way?? When you buy a new fender and your car is an R/S, there is a tab at the headlight that you have to bend down. Not really a big deal, but it is better if the body shop compares the two fenders, notices this and then bends it down before they paint it. I have pictures of the fender, but Photobucket won't let me upload it right now.

This was by far the best thread I have read on TC. We need one for the 69. If there is one, someone please point me to it.

Don't forget center top screw in speedo/tach bezel. Its a pain to put back in cause the steering wheel is partialy in the way. you'll need a stubby screwdriver.

This screw completes part of a grounding circut for the light switch. If the screw is not in, it may or may not cause all sorts of electrical gremlins that may seem to come and go, depending on if theres connectivity up there.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/a0_1.jpg

They finally got photobucket working again.
Post #59. It is on Both Sides. If an R/S you won't want these tabs.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/P2.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/P1.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/Dale8346/P1010011.jpg
These tabs also showed me how amazingly flexible the clear coats are.

This applies to all years!!

DON'T FORGET WHERE YOU PUT YOUR KEYS FOR SAFE KEEPING WHEN YOU STARTED WORKING ON YOUR CAR, years later I could not find them, finally remembered I stuck them on a nail hanging in the back of the garage.

Ray

When I did my engine-swap, I put the engine and trans in together. What I should have done was to attach the oil-cooler lines from the trans before putting the headers on. Even though I switched to hoses, it was a pain to get them on between the header and the startermotor..

HEAT BOX NOTE (FAN):

Don't forget to ground you fan then give it some power from the battery and make sure it works before you install the Inner Fender or put your car together. Make sure your new fan works. Once you get it in the car you can do the test again. It should be grounded already when installed properly, so it should work. If not, find out why??

I don't care if you have the original fan. Don't put it back in the car. Your odds are better that it will work for many more years with a NEW one. No one sees it and no one will care. Save the old one and give it to your new buyer. They can put the original one back in if they like !!!!!!!!!!

Really great info and pictures!

If installing a new trans, install the dipstick at the same time. Not after its bolted in. I put a 200 4R in my car and had to basically unbolt everything to snake the dipstick/filler tube in place. P.S. Great thread. Great ideas. Especially the kick panel ones.

Don't forget where you put your cowl tag when removed to replace the lower cowl panel. I am hoping it just shows up someday.

Id highly recommend, on any year. 67,68,69 before car goes off to paint. Check and re-check the front and rear glass window moldings for proper fit. i didnt and my rear molding on the top upper right edge where it makes the curve from the top piece to a side piece has a nasty gap, from the molding to the body panel. obviously from the full quarter panels being replaced. Should have been installed a little better i guess.

Also during the build, expecially at initial tear down. Never throw anything away. Not till yer finished. if u throw something away, never fails, you'll need it later on.

The Front glass, windshiled bottom molding clips that go on the far outside corners. just under the edge of the fenders. They can be put on after but a pita.

The dash pad and a-pillar moldings if they came with the car. Do not discard these and just plan on buying new replacements later on. Repos are junk. get the old ones recovered, restored, whatever.

Replacement door shells and door skins. Unless there is no other option, dont use the door shells, too much work to make em fit right. if your doors are orginal, even if its lots of hrs to bring them back to from the grave, put new skin on and be a better fit

Anytime you replace a bady panel. Take picture of the lines and measure gaps from other panels around it if possible. Every panel will need some massaging to fit right. Goodmark, Golden Leigon, even Gm. dont just slap it on and call it good. deck lids are bad, top doors where they meet fenders are bad, rear body panels need love. When i did mine i replaced every panel but the roof. 1 panel at a time and went my way around. Started at the Drivers door and went to the pass door. then built the front end. there wasnt a single body panel we didnt grind on, weld, grind, weld, shape, grind, weld...ect on. As were building these cars, take extra step to make em right, if you dont will regret later. hard to reform metal when final paint is on.

Unless your going for a perfect restoration and using a sbc, id highly recommend ditching the sbc heater core in lue of a bbc heater core. Heater core lines running right behind the pass valve cover are a joke. when you go to drop the trans later, engine tilts back and very possible to damage the heatercore. I did the swap w/the engine in the car, left the orginal sbc outer box, did everything from inside the car.

If your a big dynamat fan like i am, start early in the project for this. and do the entire car. the one not to forget is the firewall. dynamat this before you start running wires, add in a heat box, fuse panel, gas pedal, clutch rod, brake rod, steering collum, ect... i went as far as putting it on inside of the rear quarters, in the doors, sail panels, headliner, floorpans, behind the quarter windows, everywhere i could. its expensive and lil heavy. but well worth it.

Just a general tip here-

Before assembly, run a tap through all threaded holes. It makes assembly a lot easier.

Also use never sieze on all the bolts. It is nasty stuff to work with but You will be glad if anything has to come apart at a later date. It will also help keep the rust away on the threads.

Before putting in the headliner check that roof braces to roof panel are tight, apply adhesive as needed.