Looking for some suggestions please!

I have a 67 convertible-- I have a 406 SB and muncie (maybe tremec) going in over the winter.

I just finished doing a LS1 4-wheel power disk brake swap, just a couple days ago. Man!, the car will stop now!!! I love it!! (but scared the body is going to pass me now though:o)

As the title states-- She is loose/sloppy and makes weird noises:confused: Needs major attention in handling and ride quality!

So, thats what Im looking for next a nice compromise between handling and ride quality. Its going to be a street driven car that is maybe leaning toward the pro touring side?? Im actually not sure exactly where the pro touring side comes in. I have always had stock original cars and am bored with that and want to have some fun and do what "I" want to do for a change:yes:

Other than the LS1 power 4 - disks brakes, the only other mod is 17" torque thrust II's with some 40 series tires.

Here is what Im thinking-- Obviously all new tie rod ends and sleeves, ball joints, idler arm etc. But what A-arm bushings should i use? What subframe bushings to use?

Im going to do the 3rd gen power steering box talked about on here

Should I do the Guldstrand mod? and can I use my stock control arms if I do? I am on a budget and need to spend what little I have wisely, but I dont want to regret not doing something well needed while Im tore down.

I want to lower the car just a tick, what lower springs to use? and what rear spring bushings to use? I will be changing my tired mono for multi springs, again which is best for the lowered here? I have the DSE rear spring mono to multi kit as my car has a original 67 12 bolt with mono perches.

Sorry for the barrage of questions-- But I need help:beers:

PS. Sombody buy the Hawaii trip I have for sale in the forum classifieds!! I need money for my car;) or lets do some trading for some of the stuff I need above:thumbsup:

Sorry, not tryiing to turn this into a for sale post:o

Fire away!

Thanks

I thought I should mention that I am pretty much committed to stock spindles now since my LS1 brakes were built around them, I don't really want to buy new spindles if I can stay away from it.

This is what I used. Call Mark - he's a smart dude. He can recommend swaybar(s), shocks, springs etc. http://www.scandc.com/suspensions.htm#streetcomp2plus

1st, completely rebuild her and I have two rubber parts on my car so once I get rid of them, it's 100 percent poly! A-arms, spring rubber and all..

Check the bj's, all tr's and both the pitman arm and the idler. And don't forget the rag-joint and if it is bad buy one that has the screen wire metal re-enforced rubber washer!!! And I don't care what anybody say's, do it!!

I installed clock-cut, then one bottom coil cut off MOOG 5536's in front for my BB engine and have JCW, 3-leaf mono replacements in back w/ two extra leafs out of my old '68 'Bird, 5-leaf multi's to stiffen her way up out back to match my front and I also have cheap Gas-Adjusts all around.

And have Jegs bolt-on S/F/C's, ADDCO 1" front and 3/4" rear bolt-on S/B's and my cheap homemade slappers.

Tires are 225 and 255/45-17's on my new Pony-car "Bullitt" rims and I had Mosers re-drill everything and install all 1/2" studs.

Brakes are now my cheap homemade "pdqCBB" 13" and 11.75" jobbers.

Steering is stock, now P/S but w/ the long pitman arm and my OEM, short, bolt-on spindle steering arms!

pdq67

Thanks Al and pdq67. So you think poly bushings everywhere, right? I was thinking this as well, but thought I read some where that the poly was not a good idea for some reason? I thought about solid bushings, but Im afraid the ride will be to harsh. I eventually want to take the car on road trips with my wife and son to family reunions and maybe the power tour or the like. So as I said earlier " a compromise between handling and ride quality"

I think I need to break this down a little--- First I want to focus on the Guldstrand mod. I have a very nice extra 67 subframe sitting in my garage right now. My original plan was to have all the seams welded up good and dressed a little. Take it and have it blasted and then powder coated. Start assembling it with all new steering components, the 3rd gen gear box, springs ( I will be using a lowering spring of some kind?) , ball joints etc. the works, and have it ready to go under my car before I pull the original out. I started reading about the Guldstrand mod and was wondering if I should do this or not while Im at it with the frame? I am confused about what you can or cant do with this mod. I think I would do this if I can keep my stock control arms and spindles. ???

Thanks again!

I put the black, "polygraphite" poly, in my A-arms and just the Energy Suspension red poly everywhere else b/c I figure it's the A-arms that need it more than anywhere else.

And you can install aluminum S/F bushings instead of poly, but I think that my almost black hard as frozen hockey pucks poly bushings are fine. I had to notch them for my bolt-on S/F/C's using my hacksaw!

pdq67

PS., the last two pieces of rubber are the bushings under my rearend that the rear s/b attach w/, I will switch them out once I find a replacement pair that fit.

Thanks Al and pdq67. So you think poly bushings everywhere, right? I was thinking this as well, but thought I read some where that the poly was not a good idea for some reason? I thought about solid bushings, but Im afraid the ride will be to harsh. I eventually want to take the car on road trips with my wife and son to family reunions and maybe the power tour or the like. So as I said earlier " a compromise between handling and ride quality"

I think I need to break this down a little--- First I want to focus on the Guldstrand mod. I have a very nice extra 67 subframe sitting in my garage right now. My original plan was to have all the seams welded up good and dressed a little. Take it and have it blasted and then powder coated. Start assembling it with all new steering components, the 3rd gen gear box, springs ( I will be using a lowering spring of some kind?) , ball joints etc. the works, and have it ready to go under my car before I pull the original out. I started reading about the Guldstrand mod and was wondering if I should do this or not while Im at it with the frame? I am confused about what you can or cant do with this mod. I think I would do this if I can keep my stock control arms and spindles. ???

Thanks again!

Solid (not poly) UCA and LCA bushings (Global West) are the way to go. They allow the control arms to move smoothly and allow the springs/shocks to do their jobs without "stiction" from the bushings.

There are two ways to do the Guldstrand mod with stock UCA's - drill new holes and cut off the "ears" of the UCA mount to allow the stock UCA to pivot, or cut off the UCA mount, trim it to achieve the Guldstrand mod and reweld it to the subframe.

My '68 Camaro has the 3rd gen IROC box, the Guldstrand mod (done the cut off/reweld method), stock UCA/LCA, solid Global West UCA and LCA bushings, AFCO spring adjusters with their 5" x 9.5" springs, Koni adjustable shocks and a completely rebuilt steering linkage. It handles and rides very well.

It sounds like you're on the right track, but do search and read, both here as well as David Pozzi's site, Pro-touring.com and Lateral-g.net. Threads on tubular control arms tend to generate a lot of front end suspension discussion.