View Full Version : 350/383 engine build


gwbutch
Apr 15th, 03, 08:09 PM
Hi ya'll. I'm in the middle of a complete restoration of my '69, and I'm thinking about what to do the the engine. Right now, I've got a "stock" 350 (out of a '74). Someday, I'd like to put in a 383, but all the money is going into the body, interior, paint, etc. I'm thinking about keeping the bottom half of the motor for now, until I can get a good 383 bottom built. Now,I'd like to go ahead and get the top end that I could use on both the 350 and 383. I also want to put in a new cam in the 350.

I've been playing with Desktop Dyno, and I think I'd like to go with AFR 195 heads, a dual stage intake, and a 750 cfm carb. For the cam, I'm thinking about a Crane Powermax Roller 278 adv. I'll use a different cam for the 383, but that will be a while down the road yet. I'm looking for a street/strip setup, and of course as much torque and hp as possible :D but still run on pump gas.

What do ya'll think about these heads, dual plane intake, and 750cfm for 350 soon to be 383? And how about this cam for the 350?

I've been learning a lot on this site. I haven't used DD2000 that much, and I'm not really sure what I need to be looking for when "designing" and engine. I know enough to be dangerous graemlins/clonk.gif . Thanks ya'll.

George

Novaguy73
Apr 16th, 03, 02:17 PM
If i was you i wouldnt do a roller its not going to be worth it in your situation, the cost difference between a solid cam and lifters {$150} and a roller cam and lifters{$500?} is almost equal to a set of pistons for your 383. Other than that id give the thumbs up on the buildup. But id go with a solid cam for sure on the 350. Also look into Brodix. They have a dual plane intake that from idle to 6800 kicked the RPM AirGap's butt and its only 20 bucks more i believe. In fact at peak it made 4 more horsepower than a victor jr. But the test only went to 6800rpm. Also if you havent gotten your heads look into the new Brodix RR200 {theyre a brand new head}, Call brodix they can tell you all about the stuff.

Eric68
Apr 17th, 03, 11:51 AM
Looks pretty good to me. Hydraulic roller cams are great as long as you plan on keeping the RPMs below about 6,000 IMO. The advertised duration for the Crane you are looking at would work nicely with 10.0:1 compression.

The heads, intake (try the Performer RPM or Air Gap IMO), and carb are fine for both the 350 and the 383. IMO.

The only thing with the cam is IMO you don't necessarily have to switch cams for the 383 IMO. Just buy a cam that fits the 383 and I'm sure it will still do OK in the 355. If you want to hydraulic roller I personally would look at a cam with about 280* advertised duration and about 230* duration @ 050 lift with a 108-110* LSA. That profile will run from 2500 - 6000 in a 355, just shift the whole RPM band down a couple hundred in a 383.

gwbutch
Apr 17th, 03, 09:31 PM
Hey Novaguy, I called Brodix today. They said they were supposed to update their website with the RR heads this week. They gave me flow data on the 180s and 200s:

180
In - 2.02 Ex - 1.6
0.200 137 96
0.300 194 128
0.400 234 154
0.500 244 171
0.600 245 179

200
In - 2.05 Ex - 1.6
non CNC CNC
0.200 125 141 96
0.300 182 221 128
0.400 227 242 154
0.500 260 265 171
0.600 266 272 179

The exhaust ports are the same on both heads. It looks like the Brodix RR200 CNC may have a little better intake flow at the top, but the AFR195 has a better exhaust flow. I think I still like the AFRs better.

Novaguy thanks for the thought about the pricing of the roller cams. That's a good point. Eric, thanks for the recomendation about buying one cam that could be used for both. I think I like the idea of a cheaper cam for the 350, though. Once I build the 383, I can sell the 350 with a decent cam and the stock heads then. The cam I was looking at is a mechanical roller. I don't know if that makes any difference. DD2K was telling me that the 278 adv. duration was better from 2000 - 4500 then the 286 adv. duration was better above that. It's times like this when I have to sit back and say hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. graemlins/clonk.gif

Anymore recommendations? Mechanical roller or hydraulic?

Thanks a lot! graemlins/beers.gif

Eric68
Apr 18th, 03, 09:17 AM
I wouldn't use a mechanical roller on a street engine. Too much maintenance, those that are using mechanical rollers on the street are replacing springs and lifters once every year or two from what I hear. If you want a mechanical cam for a street engie I would stick to a flat tappet, but if you are going to sell the 350 in a year just get a hydraulic FT --- it will be easier to sell IMO.

Novaguy73
Apr 18th, 03, 03:03 PM
The cool thing about the RR200 heads is that Brodix can CNC port them yet too, the CNC they are talking about is just the combustion chambers....id like to see flow figures on a set of them CNC ported, Eric is right about the Mechenical roller. That would be alot of troubles for a mild combo. Go with a Mechenical flat tappet or hydraulic and youll be alot happier. Did you ask Brodix about their dual plane intake?? Let me know what they said