What's the proper technique to break-in a new solid lift cam. I've heard all kinds of things from several people. The one that I have heard the most is to NOT let it idle and to let the engine run from start at 2000 RPM for 20-30 minutes. Also, to run 10W30 oil them change to the oil you are going to run. Anybody got anything to add/change?

Sounds right to me. Keep in mind that before you fire the engine with the new cam you have to set the valve lash cold. This usually winds up being looser than when setting it hot. So when you get the break in done (20 minutes at 2000 RPM) reset valve lash while the engine is still hot. Then I would run the car on the road for a couple hours, recheck lash once more, and then change the oil.

Good luck, let me know how it runs.

Eric

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68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 11.98's at 111mph and never trailered.

[This message has been edited by Eric68 (edited 12-01-2001).]

I like to break in my cams using straight 30wt. I believe most companies will tell you not to use multi grade oils for cam break in. You might want to double check that. The reason you want to bring the rpms immediatly up to 2000-3000 is so the cam and lifter will have the needed oil tp mate properly. I like to vary RPM between 2500-3000 for 15 -20 minutes. If for some reason you need to shut down before this (overheating, leaks etc...) make sure you shut it off completely, do not let it idle. Make sure your coolant and oil are fool before you start to prevent having to shut down. In the case of a shut down, once you restart the engine bring the rpm right back up to 2000-3000. One last thing before you crank it over make sure your floarbowls are full so you don't have to turn it over to much before it fires (oil prelube is a good idea if this is a fresh rebuild). Eric is right on with the vale lash and oil change recommendation.

Royce

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70 Camaro 383ci
69 Camaro 385ci
2000 GMC Z71
Link to my 70
http://profiles.yahoo.com/camaroman7d

[This message has been edited by camaroman7d (edited 12-01-2001).]

Also remember to prelube the engine to fire not have it run with out oil in the system. If it is a brand spanking new engine after the first 30 minutes of running change the oil filter, becuase it will get full of all the stuff you prelubed the engine with.

Cranes web site has a good tech section on what valve adjustment allowances to make for cold settings. It gets you to within a few .001s of the hot setting.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips.

The best advice you can get on cam break-in is from the engine builder or from the cam manufacture. If you don't follow their recomendations you run the risk of voiding any warranty coverage.... Most of the time it will be very close to what everyone has already covered (pre-lube, valves adjusted, timing preset and once fired get the idle up to about 2K for 20 min or so) but it's best to keep the guy backing the product happy.

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...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_03.jpg), the '96 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_02.jpg) & the club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"

What do you guys think of GM's E.O.S. (engine oil supplement) added to the oil for a new engine?

E.O.S., excellent stuff!

It is made to combat cam scuffing because it contains extreme pressure alkily-(sp?) metal carbon chains that hold up to the extreme rubbing forces being generated until the cam and lifters bed in together.

The only problem with the stuff is that since it contains all the good EP stuff in it, that it isn't "ash-less" and when it gets into you combustion chamber, with normal use, it forms bad crud chamber deposits that can and sometimes do form pre-ignition hot-spots like glow-plugs do.

I think GM recommends draining out the first batch of new engine oil in about 500 or so miles just because of E.O.S., but don't know for sure. pdq67

E.O.S. is the greatest stuff since sliced bread! I've been pouring it over the valvetrain of every hi-perf engine I build for over 20 years and I have NEVER lost a camshaft to scuffing or break in wear.

NealM,

One more quick piece of advice:

If you are running a major league cam, mechanical or hydraulic flat tappet, with double springs that are better than 300# open load, many machinists recommend that you remove the inner springs during break-in. This is kind of a major pain in the A$$ but could save some expensive components from an early grave. Like DjD said, ask your manufacturer!

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Paul D.

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68RS, 331, 10.5:1, 4spd, 3.90 9", lowered, 245-45-16's all 'round

DynoTech performance (Memphis,Tn) did all the machine work on the engine incuding balancing. It's a specs. and dated BB L89 396/375hp with aluminum heads and 11:1 compression. I'm even putting the A.I.R. system back on. The cam (solid lift)is the orginial one that was called for and has .520 lift and 242 duration on both intake and exhaust. All this is in front of a 4 speed with 373 gears. This stocker ought to really run. Thanks for all the advise and I'll let you know how it finishes. So far it all looks SWEET!