1994 Z-28 LT-1
Ok , on Fri morn. wife gets in car, puts in prolock killswitch chip and started the car ,just fine ,27 degrees F outside ,she then realized ,the wiper was frozen to windshield ,so she shut off car and went and fixed wiper ,then gets in car and trys to start it and nothing...Just hear fuel or whatever that hum is ,no normal clicking...Now ,I will tell you that we have also put 5-6 starters in it since 04 ,but whenever it eats a starter it does so ,violently and on 1st crank...and there are always pieces...Starter has been best yet ,and all looks good ,all has power...Later that day ,I tried to dump clutch and it would not ,stay running... it would start and as soon as I let off gas it would die...
I have been told all the way from a BS ,blown head gasket to a bad starter relay ,and now ,I am almost convinced it is a failing prolock system ,as any other time when a starter went out it would still jump off and run...
Sec light blinks (like always) just dead as doornail...Someone has said security light on means failing security ...and I say ,it has ALWAYS blinked and when started gos off...it not running when I dump clutch ,tells me injectors are not working...Thus ,maybe bad prolock...
None of previous starters died like this...And I took great care and this starter is like 6 mos. old...Worked one min ,didnt the next...
Not like any of the others...I have even smacked with hammer lightly ,I just dont believe its the starter...

I want to get this prolock out ,and can give wiring description as I have seen so far...
Any clues would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks, yakster333

1994 Z-28 LT-1
Ok , on Fri morn. wife gets in car, puts in prolock killswitch chip and started the car ,just fine ,27 degrees F outside ,she then realized ,the wiper was frozen to windshield ,so she shut off car and went and fixed wiper ,then gets in car and trys to start it and nothing...Just hear fuel or whatever that hum is ,no normal clicking...Now ,I will tell you that we have also put 5-6 starters in it since 04 ,but whenever it eats a starter it does so ,violently and on 1st crank...and there are always pieces...Starter has been best yet ,and all looks good ,all has power...Later that day ,I tried to dump clutch and it would not ,stay running... it would start and as soon as I let off gas it would die...
I have been told all the way from a BS ,blown head gasket to a bad starter relay ,and now ,I am almost convinced it is a failing prolock system ,as any other time when a starter went out it would still jump off and run...
Sec light blinks (like always) just dead as doornail...Someone has said security light on means failing security ...and I say ,it has ALWAYS blinked and when started gos off...it not running when I dump clutch ,tells me injectors are not working...Thus ,maybe bad prolock...
None of previous starters died like this...And I took great care and this starter is like 6 mos. old...Worked one min ,didnt the next...
Not like any of the others...I have even smacked with hammer lightly ,I just dont believe its the starter...

I want to get this prolock out ,and can give wiring description as I have seen so far...
Any clues would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks, yakster333

Check out http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=9 It is an LT1 based forum. If it runs and then dies when you let off the gas, it sounds like a throttle position sensor issue.

TY ,will do..
Am lost ... Doin my best fer the records...


Thanks, yakster333

no problem. let us know what you find out.:thumbsup:

so she shut off car and went and fixed wiper ,then gets in car and trys to start it and nothing...Just hear fuel or whatever that hum is ,no normal clicking...Sec light blinks (like always) just dead as doornail...Someone has said security light on means failing security ...and I say ,it has ALWAYS blinked and when started gos off...

I want to get this prolock out ,and can give wiring description as I have seen so far...Thanks, yakster333If security light is blinking, then VATS is not satisfied - chip in the key is not being read by the tumbler socket and VATS module is keeping starter from not working.

Once a start attempt is made and no start, turn off and remove key. Wait 3-4 minutes and restart with same key - engine will start - providing other external aftermarket systems are not in the picture.

If engine starts, then the tumbler (key socket) in the column needs replacing. Can be gotten from any GM dealer and requires documents of legal ownership.

I just tried what you suggested 2 times and same thing ,Dead...I dont drive the car and we have been together 13 yrs (so I trust her judgement) and I have grilled her on this and she is for sure it ,always blinked ,before cranking...and then she said after running ,it has always went out...I can solve this VATS Idea later today, hopefully ,as there is another key ,just have to go get it later ...This Key was bought at GM Dealer ,maybe 2 years ago ,we had them make this copy,so it isnt even worn...I think it was very exspensive too...

Thank you for trying to help me get this car going ...I really do appreciate it...

Thanks ,Yakster333

The key is not the culprit. Its the socket reading the key.

Well ,my situation limits me to spending $0.00 and am recovering from a heart attack...
If this is my problem ,will what this guy says in this link work???


http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

Thanks ,Yakster333

This would be it.

I have just walked down to car after reading some on vats ,but I was trying to notice anything ,I might have missed ...
I did find new info ,when I turn key ,to try and start ,I am hearing a clicking in dash each time I try ,It sounds almost like an old flasher would sound ,only when and as I turn key to try and crank...Also the volt meter moves a hair upwards as I am trying to crank...???


Thanks ,Yakster333

Its most likely the security system like they are saying, it could be the security system is going bad but thats pretty rare really only happens when someone wires an aftermarket one on top.

The click is most likely due to the security disabling the cranking and run feature.

I agree its got to do with security ,I have Bro-in-law tryin to help me figure it out ,long distance on net...
Points of interest
Car wont crank
Car wont run when dump clutch
This definately tells me its a security problem ,trouble is
It seems to have 2 different ones...
1-VATS
2-Prolock killswitch chip and little cube ,(brain) I assume...

I am not sure but I think they both disable ,the starter and Fuel Injection
Explaining why it wouldnt run...

I went and bought a multi meter ,so if I can use it to solve this ,I'd greatly appreciate someone walkin me thru it ,if they would be so kind...

Thanks,Yakster333

P.S. wasnt able to get spare key today...

I would think if you pulled the fuse for the Prolock, and if its installed correctly, should default to the operating condition. Again, I'm assuming this function as I do not have an installation manual in front of me to read, I could be wrong. If not, then a poorly designed system.

Secondly, OE VATS is preventing the engine from starting all the time as you stated the engine does start intermittently. The VATS is either being satisfied by reading the key chip the first time or the time elapsed between start attempts........Just my thoughts.

I don't think the system works like that. IF the brain is going bad and you pull the fuse it defaults to not start. I mean how easy would it be for a crook to pull the relay on the security brain then and start the car and take off???

If that is the problem it has to be replaced or your out of luck. Have you tried locking and unlocking the car (disabling/enabling/disabling) the alarm then popping the clutch with the key in run?? Because if you do this it will disable the security disable function on the system and let it run if its having a security issue. If the brain is dead or the vats isn't working like u suspect I dont think this will solve it.

There are ways to bypass the vat's if you don't have that let me know and I have it stuffed away somewhere. That way we could get to the bottom of it for sure.

Ok ,I took out prolock system and was left too connect ,2 yellow car wires...
Still have sec light blinking and does until , I turn switch off...
Now should I start on bypassing VATS???

Thanks ,Yakster333

Yes. Measure the key chip for amount of resistance and use this measured amount in the bypass resistor. See url posted earlier.

yeah ,I have very good and multiple sites ,explaining how on ,Vats ,just was hopin ,I didnt have to go there...
Thaks, Yakster333

You might check the resistance at the steering column plug from the key tumbler and see if the two thin wires read the key resistance.

No reading, then either a bypass resistor in place of the two thin wires, or replace the key tumbler after removing the steering wheel and locking plate and limit the the effort of pulling out the combination switch handle as its harness is short and over pulling will rip out the harness. Tumblers can be bought from any GM dealer with ownership papers in hand.

Remember the combo switch harness placement as not putting it back in its original place will wind the harness about and smoke will appear from the wheel center. The handle does not need to be disconnected, just thandle removed so the turn signal switch can be moved to remove the timbler holding screws. It is a tedious job, tools can be bought from Harbor Freight for under $25, steering wheel puller and lock plate pusher to remove the snap ring from the column.

Yes ,I am very lost now...
I dont want to have to pull column apart ,where I am getting confused is ,
on http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg as you see ,and this is for camaros...
You see he has one white wire coming down column ... with 2 smaller wires in it...a purple and white and purple and black...
I am not seeing a white wire going to a harness...(not sayin it aint there)
but I am seeing this description...
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
so on this link ,according to his layout ,I am finding that orange ,rubbery wire ,it is almost an oval ,and in it ,are 2 white wires ,and they do have a harness..
I am also getting lost as shoebox z site ,says ,set ohm meter to 20k ,I can only set my multimeter to where it says ,x1k ,and on that ,my key pellet ,reads 5 and a hair over ,my friend(neighbor says that means it is 523 ohms..
So this is why ,I am so , lost...
thank you for your continued support...

Sincerely ,yakster333

The orange rubbery harness is correct, two white wires inside. Insert key and measure the key resistance with a better meter. Go by shoebox. As he suggests, cut the column harness, not the VATS harness as someday you might replace the tumbler and need it to plug together later.

If you do get resistor, get a 0-1K or 0-2K or 0-5k potentiometer and adjust it for the same value. Use the center post and one of the outside posts for resistance and connection tothe VATS module like shoebox shows.

Yes ,I have determined that key pellet reads 5 on the x1k setting ,so I need a 5,000 ohm resistor...


Thanks ,yakster333

have just learned I have a calibrate wheel on multi ,it says put ohm meter on what setting you want ,and then touch connectors ,and tune it to 0 ohms ,thus calibrated...????
When I did this and tested key on x1k setting ,key pellet reads ,around 9,meaning 9000 ohms...???

Thanks ,Kenny

ok ,I just got a digital multimeter to read key pellet on key ,set it to 20k setting ,,,
pellet reads 9.52 ,so I need it to add up to 9,520 ohms? correct?


Thanks...Yakster

Yes, #14, 9,530 ohms, 0-10K pot 20-turn pot, 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch by 1 inch long blue in color.
Brand of analog meter? Yes, touch the two leads togather and adjust for 0 ohms - can't do it, replace battery. Reads like a Simpson or Triplett
Brand of digital meter?

O.k. guys....

PROBLEM SOLVED...
BYPASSED Vats... Built Resistors...

Fired right up ,no hesitation...
Thanks for all the help...

Sincerely ,yakster333


You can call this thread solved and closed now....


And all them BADAZZ horses are free again...
Thanks...

Cool !!! --- Every time?

Gotta be honest...
I built resistor for 2nd try last ,night ,all the while shoebox and I doin email thang ...
Built resistor last night ,walked down to car this morn ,lol...
prayed over key...put in resistor pack ,put key in and, bammm
Turned over ,didnt pick fuel up ,as it ha been 10 days...
Tromped gas once ,tried again,and all freakin of them gorgeous horses roared...
I get lost too as ,people say ,how can I get 300hp from my LT-1 ,ummm
my answer is ,start it...I have stock lt-1 ,k&n filters ,6spd. High performance chip....
Unless I am missing something ,my mechanic put our Z on Dyno in 2004
and if I remember ,it was between 380 and 400 hp...
So am I lost? lol

You all take care ,and may god be with ya...
You all have helped ,more than you know...
Happy Holidays...
Sincerely ,Kenny /AKA yakster333


P.S. and yes everytime... now ,my sec light comes on solid for a few seconds ,and gos out ,before I crank it... and all lights out during running ,and yes ,I "STRESSED THE CAR" lol
bye

You're welcome. Take care yourself.