I thought this was interesting. I cut apart my old actuator.
Here's what the guts look like, this is an aftermarket actuator.
My doors were opening and closing slow. I found neither actuator held vacuum.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/dale68z/rsvacuummotor001.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/dale68z/rsvacuummotor002.jpg

Here it is pulled apart.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/dale68z/rsvacuummotor003.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/dale68z/rsvacuummotor004.jpg
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/dale68z/rsvacuummotor005.jpg

I see I probably just needed to throw in some lube, in the vacuum port to help the O ring looking seal on the divider disc, and they probably would have worked better.
Dale

I worked for a Camaro parts business from 1983-1997. We used to test new GM actuators prior to sale as they often did not work out of the box.

Even if they did work new they often didn't work for long.

I always wanted to know what that looked like inside. Thanks for the pictures.

Kinda an annoying way to have built them, no wonder they are so troublesome.
The odds of that thing sealing are pretty close to slim to none, goes straight to none of their is any bind or misalignment in the linkage.

Thanks for sharing your pictures with us. Sounds like a good idea tring to lube them to seal or slide easy. i can't believe how much oem ones go for.

I guess if you try and lube them you need to remove them and stand them on end to coat the seal evenly.

I installed 2 new ones. One new actuator works well. The other side is REAL hard to move. I think it is bound up inside. Maybe if it gets used some, it will free up.
I didn't have any leakage at the shaft on my old actuators. I blew pressurized smoke in the vacuum port, and it came out the other port, so, the center seal was leaking. I also hasd vacuum on the exhaust hose.
I thought there would be a diaphram in the middle of the actuator, and it would be all rubber. Now, looking at the exterior design, that was bad thinking. If there was a diaphram, the seam for the "can" would be in the middle.
I thought this was a pretty cool design, and basically should last forever. The shaft would need to be perfectly centered, the can cannot have a dent, and the shaft needs to be perfectly perpendicular to the piece it's attached to. I didn't find any lube residue in the can after cutting it apart.
I'm gonna try spraying some silicone lube into the old one to see if it will seal up. I bet it will.
Dale

I think the way these work is that vacuum it applied to the side needing to travel. If that's the case both sides could use some lube as the divider may keep all lube on one side provided it's holding.

Dale,

Thanks for sharing the info and lube idea, although I have been fortunate in that mine work as good as new!

Charlie 69 RS
70 Challenger

I worked for a Camaro parts business from 1983-1997. We used to test new GM actuators prior to sale as they often did not work out of the box.

Even if they did work new they often didn't work for long.

William, How do you test them?

thanks for the pics and sharing the info..way too cool, always wondered....

William, How do you test them?

If the rod is fully retracted apply 15 psi or so to the bottom nipple. Or vacuum to the top nipple. We would hook them up to a running car.

The owner of the business was a former Chevrolet dealer. When someone whined about their RS doors not working properly he would quickly point out they didn't work well when they were new. Lots of warranty $ burned on inop headlamp covers.

OK thanks,

I'v done something similar to that, just not sure how much pressure I was applying, and the rod will go in and out. I have an extra set and was wondering if they were working.

I've cut a few up in the past as well.
I'd love to be able to disassemble one... repair it... and re-assemble.... but that double rolled lip makes it nearly impossible.

I had a new old stock set that one did not work unless you started the door moving by hand. I bought a new set from ricks one works very well the other is slow and sticks at times. They said to lube them with silicone lube not WD40. I have not tryed it yet I have heard before not to put oil in them maybe it messes up the o-ring.

I've cut a few up in the past as well.
I'd love to be able to disassemble one... repair it... and re-assemble.... but that double rolled lip makes it nearly impossible.


If you notice how it was opened. you can re-install the cap and epoxy it back on to seal. I have done it, but the re-production rubber ring on the piston is stiffer than OEM so it didn't work so good for me.

TTFN
Mat

I can source O-rings in any size / shape... out of many diffrent types of materials.

If I could find a good method of opening and re-closing the acuators... I know I could make them function better than new.... with the use of modern elsastomer seals.

I wonder if someone could machine out a clamp of sorts, like the big ones that go around 55 gallon drums only sized for the actuators, that could clamp around both pieces and hold it tight? Or put a crimp in a huge hose clamp so its shaped like a V all the way around and then tighten it up? I bet someone with a machine shop could figure out a way, then with Steve's O rings, they can be rebuilt :D

Ya need to Slick 50 the inside of the can, that stuff is SLIPPERY...:D

Interesting Thread. I have my 40 year old originals, and they work well. But if there is something that would help lube them up inside, I'd love to know what it is and how well it works.

Jimmy V.

Without cutting them open I would think you could lube the rubbers and inside of the cans by introducing a bit of ____________ (fill in the blank) arosol spray into each vacuum port and operating the actuator back and forth and turning the can over a few times.

Bicycle pumps use leather to seal the plunger and one end is screw on so you can open the thing up and grease or replace the leather. Both work on the same principal. The aftermarket industry could adapt that without really changing the look and make a lot of folks real happy.

I would think you would want to stay away from any type of petroleum based lubricant, for fear of causing the rubber o-rings to swell and bind up.

Without cutting them open I would think you could lube the rubbers and inside of the cans by introducing a bit of ____________ (fill in the blank) arosol spray into each vacuum port and operating the actuator back and forth and turning the can over a few times.



I've tried this before, Jim... with both an aerosol spray and motor oil...

Neither one worked.... :noway:

The main piston seal isn't so much an "o-ring" as it is a circle of rubber sandwiched between 2 plates. This is from my memory.

The other difficult thing is there wasn't a way to replace / access the shaft seal IIRC.