hi guys just checking out all the fine rides.i love the pro street look .about how much does it cost to put some real rubber in my fender wells?whats cheaper a 4 link?or lader bars.?:beers:

hi guys just checking out all the fine rides.i love the pro street look .about how much does it cost to put some real rubber in my fender wells?whats cheaper a 4 link?or lader bars.?:beers:

Ladder Bar is cheaper than 4 Link:yes:. You should expect to spend at a minimum of $4,000 to $5,000 for a back half suspension.Could be more :yes:

Are you going to do it you self Checkered Racing has a nice back half the front end is OK but needs some tweaking.$795 this is what I used and a four link is what you want for the street.Heres a link....
http://www.checkeredracing.com/4LinkBackHalf.html
Heres a couple pics of my car.....

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/050606_D70_18-55_Mis046-1.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/PIC0109.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/PICT0031.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/PICT0533.jpg
If you have any queations or need some help PM me I'll try to help

Also something to consider is doing your own mini-tubbing. Not as much cutting but can still fit 335/345 sized tires in the rear.

If you or a friend can weld you can do it yourself:
The Novice's guide to mini-tubbing a 68-69 Camaro (http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=140271)

ok guys thx much for the info.there is a guy that builds cars in my town and races himself.il check with him on the labor or his charges as well.thx again.by the way very nice 69 camaro:thumbsup:

I paid $2,500.00 to cut the car

mini tub and put the dse quadra link in....youll like the look..pro street is outdated unless your dragracing (imo)...p.s. i think it kills the value of the car too when you go to sell it..

mini tub and put the dse quadra link in....youll like the look..pro street is outdated unless your dragracing (imo)...p.s. i think it kills the value of the car too when you go to sell it..
is a mini tub easer to install is a bolt in or totaly replaces the rear frame? never mind just check out the link for novice mini tubbing.very nice job.dont look to hard just alot of time.would like to see some pics of a car with mini tubbs and one with a full blown back half car to compaire the looks

mini tub and put the dse quadra link in....youll like the look..pro street is outdated unless your dragracing (imo)...p.s. i think it kills the value of the car too when you go to sell it..
Any cut you make and change of original panel to tub or minitub changes the value and quality of the job and the ride are what will matter.Its all in what you want me personaly I like the biggest tire that will fit and still retain the trunk hinges.My son is 14 and the 70 Chevelle is going to be a big tire as well that he is going to build.

Here is 2 69 camaros. One is prostreet ( my car ) and one is minitubbed ( one Im building for a friend ) with the DSE quaderlink suspension.

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj16/prostreet69camaro/DSC01128.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj16/prostreet69camaro/DSC09760.jpg

mini tub and put the dse quadra link in....youll like the look..pro street is outdated unless your dragracing (imo)...p.s. i think it kills the value of the car too when you go to sell it..

.......l:). You obviously think this is the Pro Tour Forum:yes:.

thx very much mike for the compaire pics i think im after the full tub look.:)

thx very much mike for the compaire pics i think im after the full tub look.:)
This is what we want to hear Clayton,but you do need to think about how and what you want the ride and the look to be.Are you going to drag race and how far are you driving on a daily basis.I cant believe I just said this me loving the big tire look and all and futher more if I go to a show all that catches my eye is the fat tire cars.I say do your research and collect or borrow all your funds for the car and make sure all your ducks are in a row.I think the funds are the biggest part of slowing projects down along with not getting the right and qualified preson or persons to do the work.Which ever choice you make there are many here to guide you in the right direction....

This is what we want to hear Clayton,but you do need to think about how and what you want the ride and the look to be.Are you going to drag race and how far are you driving on a daily basis.I cant believe I just said this me loving the big tire look and all and futher more if I go to a show all that catches my eye is the fat tire cars.I say do your research and collect or borrow all your funds for the car and make sure all your ducks are in a row.I think the funds are the biggest part of slowing projects down along with not getting the right and qualified preson or persons to do the work.Which ever choice you make there are many here to guide you in the right direction....
thx much for the info.the car is for street use in the summer.wife wont let me drag race YET.im getting started on a 489ci motor then im going to need some traction and a new rearend.i can see the new motor popping my little 10 bolt easly.so yes i will continue to do home work and such in the mean time.thx again for all great info .love looking at all the pics.iwant that low raked look.

This is what we want to hear Clayton,but you do need to think about how and what you want the ride and the look to be.Are you going to drag race and how far are you driving on a daily basis.I cant believe I just said this me loving the big tire look and all and futher more if I go to a show all that catches my eye is the fat tire cars.I say do your research and collect or borrow all your funds for the car and make sure all your ducks are in a row.I think the funds are the biggest part of slowing projects down along with not getting the right and qualified preson or persons to do the work.Which ever choice you make there are many here to guide you in the right direction....

thx much for the info.the car is for street use in the summer.wife wont let me drag race YET.im getting started on a 489ci motor then im going to need some traction and a new rearend.i can see the new motor popping my little 10 bolt easly.so yes i will continue to do home work and such in the mean time.thx again for all great info .love looking at all the pics.iwant that low raked look.

Clayton..........adding to what David Calligan posted, I would also encourage to take the time to "get it right" the first time, talk to several chassis shops and explain to them exactly what you want to achieve with your car....even if you think it's insignificant to them...if you don't specify anything, they will build the car the way they want and you'll end up being disappointed.:beers:

Clayton..........adding to what David Calligan posted, I would also encourage to take the time to "get it right" the first time, talk to several chassis shops and explain to them exactly what you want to achieve with your car....even if you think it's insignificant to them...if you don't specify anything, they will build the car the way they want and you'll end up being disappointed.:beers:
ok thx il keep that in mind.i couldnt help but notice your 468 putting out that kinda hp.what all has been done to your motor to get thoes numbers?:beers:

ok thx il keep that in mind.i couldnt help but notice your 468 putting out that kinda hp.what all has been done to your motor to get thoes numbers?:beers:

I changed to a roller cam drivetrain,had some head work done,different pistons,new Holley 850 DP along with a complete refreshing of the engine. When I took the engine to The Performance Clinic, I met with the owner and he asked me what my expectations were in regards to HP(I wanted 700 or as close as possible). He asked my how the engine would be operated, if it would see street as well as strip time and when it was complete and on the dyno.............648HP:D.

I changed to a roller cam drivetrain,had some head work done,different pistons,new Holley 850 DP along with a complete refreshing of the engine. When I took the engine to The Performance Clinic, I met with the owner and he asked me what my expectations were in regards to HP(I wanted 700 or as close as possible). He asked my how the engine would be operated, if it would see street as well as strip time and when it was complete and on the dyno.............648HP:D.
wow thats great.makes me think of keeping my 454 and going the 0.60 over route and just refreshing things up.it has new pistons and such but the guy i got it from screwed up and put a 0.10 and a standard bearing on the #6 rod and wiped out the crank.im going with a bigger cam and head work anyways.mabe il just replace crank and have block worked over?.im only looking for around 500 streetible horse power

wow thats great.makes me think of keeping my 454 and going the 0.60 over route and just refreshing things up.it has new pistons and such but the guy i got it from screwed up and put a 0.10 and a standard bearing on the #6 rod and wiped out the crank.im going with a bigger cam and head work anyways.mabe il just replace crank and have block worked over?.im only looking for around 500 streetible horse power


Keep the 454 and overbore it .060:yes:.It's very good start on a 500 HP engine:yes:.With some head work and carb tuning 500 HP should be easily within reach :beers:.

wow thats great.makes me think of keeping my 454 and going the 0.60 over route and just refreshing things up.it has new pistons and such but the guy i got it from screwed up and put a 0.10 and a standard bearing on the #6 rod and wiped out the crank.im going with a bigger cam and head work anyways.mabe il just replace crank and have block worked over?.im only looking for around 500 streetible horse power

If you go .060 over..the new pistons you now have will be of no use.Grab that $1400 cast crank long rod assy and poke the 454 .030 over with the 4.250" arm for 489 cid.Stock iron oval ports...a decent hydraulic flat tappet cam.An easy 500+ hp bbc that never needs to exceed 5000 rpm and will live for ever on the street with tire frying torque.Heck..the cost of a retro roller alone comes close to the cost of the entire rotating assy.
Daves 600+hp bbc is a beast for sure..but by no means a budget build with his components.
Food for thought ..these cast crank stroker kits are good bang for the buck and you already have the foundation.:cool:

If you go .060 over..the new pistons you now have will be of no use.Grab that $1400 cast crank long rod assy and poke the 454 .030 over with the 4.250" arm for 489 cid.Stock iron oval ports...a decent hydraulic flat tappet cam.An easy 500+ hp bbc that never needs to exceed 5000 rpm and will live for ever on the street with tire frying torque.Heck..the cost of a retro roller alone comes close to the cost of the entire rotating assy.
Daves 600+hp bbc is a beast for sure:D..but by no means a budget build with his components.
Food for thought ..these cast crank stroker kits are good bang for the buck and you already have the foundation.:cool:

George is correct.....:yes:. Valvetrain components for my build cost me a grand.

If you go .060 over..the new pistons you now have will be of no use.Grab that $1400 cast crank long rod assy and poke the 454 .030 over with the 4.250" arm for 489 cid.Stock iron oval ports...a decent hydraulic flat tappet cam.An easy 500+ hp bbc that never needs to exceed 5000 rpm and will live for ever on the street with tire frying torque.Heck..the cost of a retro roller alone comes close to the cost of the entire rotating assy.
Daves 600+hp bbc is a beast for sure..but by no means a budget build with his components.
Food for thought ..these cast crank stroker kits are good bang for the buck and you already have the foundation.:cool:
ok thx george:)

ok thx george:)

Clayton...after you back half the car and now enter the realm of a real Pro Street car..you will need some torque to blow off the steamrollers at will.look at these guys here with their tubbed cars.They are not posers..they are big dogs with lotsa power.
Build that stroker bbc..you will be glad you did.
I drool everytime I view their rides.Pro Street is not going away any time soon imo.Good luck with your build.
:beers:

Just put a blower motor in it. LOL

Hell I had my car prostreeted for 13 years before I put a blower motor in it.

Clayton...after you back half the car and now enter the realm of a real Pro Street car..you will need some torque to blow off the steamrollers at will.look at these guys here with their tubbed cars.They are not posers..they are big dogs with lotsa power.
Build that stroker bbc..you will be glad you did.
I drool everytime I view their rides.Pro Street is not going away any time soon imo.Good luck with your build.
:beers:

George.........your '68 is no poser:noway:.Love that blown BB in your car:yes:.....:thumbsup::thumbsup:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/1969ProStreetCamaro/camaropics001.jpg?t=1230431994 (http://javascript<b></b>:void(0);)

[quote=prostreet69camaro;1127315]Just put a blower motor in it. LOL

X2^.:cool:

George.........your '68 is no poser:noway:.Love that blown BB in your car:yes:.....:thumbsup::thumbsup:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/1969ProStreetCamaro/camaropics001.jpg?t=1230431994 (http://javascript<b></b>:void(0);)

Hey David.I am ok with it at 700+ HP.The torque curve is non existant.It starts brutally high at 2k and flat lines from there.The cal tracks are going in with the split monos and rancheros and those handy dandy drag radials offered today.Seeing how I built the engine for some real boost..I am just a pulley swap away from insanity.800 hp is a no brainer with a roots 8-71 atop a bbc that can pass some gas.:D

very nice car george.i have a 68 also.not a member of tc so cant seam to put any pics of car on here yet

Clayton - If you haven't already, take a look at our 69. It can be seen on page 2 of Pro Street under "Video of our 69 BB". Hope this is helpful.......................DC

Clayton - If you haven't already, take a look at our 69. It can be seen on page 2 of Pro Street under "Video of our 69 BB". Hope this is helpful.......................DC
thx don.yes i checked it out.very nice car.sounds great.is that a roller cam in it?:thumbsup:

Clayton - Thanks, that's an Ultradyne flat-tappet (288/296 F10), .612/.630 cam and Comp #930 springs....................DC

Clayton...after you back half the car and now enter the realm of a real Pro Street car..you will need some torque to blow off the steamrollers at will.look at these guys here with their tubbed cars.They are not posers..they are big dogs with lotsa power.
Build that stroker bbc..you will be glad you did.
I drool everytime I view their rides.Pro Street is not going away any time soon imo.Good luck with your build.
:beers:
When I first started my build I was thinking of putting a v-6 in it and be more of a looker than it is now.

[quote=prostreet69camaro;1127315]Just put a blower motor in it. LOL

X2^.:cool:

make that X3 :thumbsup:

mini tub and put the dse quadra link in....youll like the look..pro street is outdated unless your dragracing (imo)...p.s. i think it kills the value of the car too when you go to sell it..

Pro Street is alive and well. If you notice, the same magazines that said Pro Street was dead 10 years ago still feature them almost every month. Real car guys want a car to enjoy. If someone is just using it as an investment they're missing out.

Build your car the way YOU want it!

Pro Street is alive and well. If you notice, the same magazines that said Pro Street was dead 10 years ago still feature them almost every month. Real car guys want a car to enjoy. If someone is just using it as an investment they're missing out.

Build your car the way YOU want it!
my car is not stock anyways.i believe if it has the look of a hot rod then it should be a hot rod.thats why im going to build my motor to the 489-496 ci before im going with full tub look.kinda like a pit bull dog with no teeth other wise.lol

mini tub and put the dse quadra link in....youll like the look..pro street is outdated unless your dragracing (imo)...p.s. i think it kills the value of the car too when you go to sell it..

Pro Street is alive and well. If you notice, the same magazines that said Pro Street was dead 10 years ago still feature them almost every month. Real car guys want a car to enjoy. If someone is just using it as an investment they're missing out.

Build your car the way YOU want it!

:yes:.I agree!! Even though I own a Pro Street car, I also like some of the Pro Tour cars that I have seen and even if I didn't like them...I would not say things about them as mentioned above:noway:.

It's your car do what you want. Pro Street is not dead or dying. It never will as long as drag racing is still around. Pro Street has changed a bit that's all. It used to be all about show and no go, wild paint jobs, trailer queens and chrome everything. Now it is about cars that car run respectable numbers at the track, can actually be driven on the street (and are driven).

Any modification you do to a car can "hurt" the value but, the same can be said for pro touring, many of those cars are mini tubbed and the suspension is modified. The only difference is that is the big fad right now so people are paying more for these cars. In the past when Pro Street was "new" people paid big dollars for them as well. If you are in this hobby for the investment then you should be buying stock numbers matching, rare optioned cars and not drive them. I don't think that description fits any of the personalities in the Pro Street forum.


The only thing that hurt pro street years ago were the cars that "looked" fast but, didn't perform at all. The same will hurt Pro Touring soon, lots of cars with big wheels that look like they handle but don't. It's a matter of time before the posers start showing up in that fad as well.

I see the rising interest in the NMCA type "street" racing as fueling a resurgence in the popularity in ProStreet cars. Those heads-up classes are getting faster and faster. This trend seems to be reflected in the magazines like Super Chevy, Hot Rod, Popular Hot Rodding, etc.

As far as an investment, it's a lot better than buying a new vette (or charger, challenger, camaro, etc). The depreciation on a new car is huge.

Just my 2 cents.

Going Pro-street in Australia is difficult, can be done but is tough (to get car roadworthy / registered). I absolutely want(ed) a pro-street car, but back halving the car was going to make it just so much more difficult to register.

Instead I went mini-tub. But not DSE or the like, custom minitubs so I could run a 325 x 50 series (tall) tire. Giving me the PS look side on, but not as much width under foot.

Currently sporting a 632 cube motor, just swapped out the 1050 Dominator for 2 x 600 Performers....but may starve it of air....so seriously thinking could be time to blow it and inject it :yes:

As many have said before, build it the way you want, if you want pro-street do that...you won't regret it, this is never a "value" decision, this is all about living the dream !!!!

I personaly think Pro-Street sucks.....

I personaly think Pro-Street sucks.....

I agree..unless they are V6 equipped.:p:D:D

Going Pro-street in Australia is difficult, can be done but is tough (to get car roadworthy / registered). I absolutely want(ed) a pro-street car, but back halving the car was going to make it just so much more difficult to register.

Instead I went mini-tub. But not DSE or the like, custom minitubs so I could run a 325 x 50 series (tall) tire. Giving me the PS look side on, but not as much width under foot.

Currently sporting a 632 cube motor, just swapped out the 1050 Dominator for 2 x 600 Performers....but may starve it of air....so seriously thinking could be time to blow it and inject it :yes:

As many have said before, build it the way you want, if you want pro-street do that...you won't regret it, this is never a "value" decision, this is all about living the dream !!!!

:beers:





I personaly think Pro-Street sucks.....

:confused::confused:. I never thought Dave would say that:noway:.

[quote=cluxford;1129634]

Currently sporting a 632 cube motor, just swapped out the 1050 Dominator for 2 x 600 Performers....but may starve it of air....so seriously thinking could be time to blow it and inject it :yes:

Cluxford..would that be a centrifugal blow thru with port injection or roots style with a fogger hat atop?
That 632 in n/a trim must be a monster on the street already.
:hurray::beers:

:confused::confused:. I never thought Dave would say that:noway:.[/quote]

I gotta believe there is some tongue in cheek involved here.;)

I personaly think Pro-Street sucks.....

Sucks what????

Now you are going over the line?? It must be the snow and yankee talking now.

[quote=cluxford;1129634]

Currently sporting a 632 cube motor, just swapped out the 1050 Dominator for 2 x 600 Performers....but may starve it of air....so seriously thinking could be time to blow it and inject it :yes:

Cluxford..would that be a centrifugal blow thru with port injection or roots style with a fogger hat atop?
That 632 in n/a trim must be a monster on the street already.
:hurray::beers:

It ain't on the street quite yet....still in build mode, but I expect it to be a handful, but that's half the fun. If I do blow it it will be a traditional 8/71, the pro-charger style look just doesn't do it for me.....and this is just as much about look as it is power (got 800 horses already)

[quote=fatblock;1129732]

It ain't on the street quite yet....still in build mode, but I expect it to be a handful, but that's half the fun. If I do blow it it will be a traditional 8/71, the pro-charger style look just doesn't do it for me.....and this is just as much about look as it is power (got 800 horses already)

I agree.The rubber band turbos work great..but hardly eye candy.
With 632 cid..size the roots for your application.You are definetely a candidate for a 10 series..or bigger if you can package it.:yes:

I know 10/71 is probably better, I have a mate with a 8/71 on a 502...concious of dollars getting out of control here.....

I personaly think Pro-Street sucks.....

Dave, are you OK? You're worrying me.

Do we need to start another 'Where's David' thread?