Ive seen both of these recommended in previous threads:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/RamAirDave/RestoReference/psibleed.jpg

http://www.tptools.com/p/658,313_Power-Brake-and-Clutch-Bleeder-Kits.html


http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/RamAirDave/RestoReference/vacbleed.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brake-Fluid-Vacuum-Bleeder-Vacula-Mityvac-Type-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116 QQitemZ370111399212QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTool s


I figure both work pretty well, just don't know if either one has any significant advantage over the other. Any thoughts/comments/recommendations welcome :thumbsup:

I have the pressure type and love it. Biggest pro I see is that you don't risk running the MC dry. Con would be that it might take a little ingenuity to get the adapter to seal to the top of the MC. I've not had any troubles, though. The hooks and chains are hokey - I use a big C-clamp. It was impossible to use it on a friend's minivan because there was no room above the MC.

Never tried the vac bleeder.

The only thought I would have about a pressure bleeder is if something happens to the master cylinder seal and brake fluid starts spraying around the front compartment. Brake fluid on paint is a disaster. But I guess that could be precluded by putting a towel or trash bag over the assembly when you start?

At least with a vacuum system, you are just sucking at the wheel cylinder/caliper.

alan

The Motive bleeder is better, I believe. The vacuum system relies on a loose bleeder screw and it will suck past the bleeder screw threads regardless how much grease is on the threads.

Lay down plastic over the items you don't want to get soaked with brake fluid.

Purchase the Motive Pressure Bleeder but don't use the funky chains and hooks to secure the adapter to the master cylinder, it will never seal!, just use a 6" C-Clamp.....And keep the pressure at around 10psi, anything higher such as 15psi, will blow brake fluid out the rear of the master cylinder!:yes::thumbsup:

Good old fashioned bleeding for me
We have press and vac down the workshop,,,by the time one sets up, cleans down dismantle, the old fashioned way is just as good.
BUT
If installing new MC/slaves etc, take the time to prefill/bleed before installig.
Many modern cars ofen have pressure shut off valves..ie diagonally opposed sytems, and these close when using press/vac systems,

Sure one needs 2 ppl for pedal down method, buy hey there is alaway someone around, a kid next door who are willing to help out for a few minutes.

Good old fashioned bleeding for me
We have press and vac down the workshop,,,by the time one sets up, cleans down dismantle, the old fashioned way is just as good.
BUT
If installing new MC/slaves etc, take the time to prefill/bleed before installig.
Many modern cars ofen have pressure shut off valves..ie diagonally opposed sytems, and these close when using press/vac systems,

Sure one needs 2 ppl for pedal down method, buy hey there is alaway someone around, a kid next door who are willing to help out for a few minutes. With the pressure type or the vacuum type do you still need to bench bleed a new master cylinder before installing it or will it bleed itself ?

Sometime you do, sometimes it will not...
So instead of 'finding out' make bench bleeding a std practice.

I have often wondered if old posts having issues, they have assembled seals dry, rather than being generoous with fluid and assemble wet like crank seals etc????

Vac and pressure bleeding forces the fuild thru, so bench bleed should not be req'd.

So with the psi bleeder, you have to push in the plunger on the back of the valve under the MC to bypass the 30psi that's needed to push the fluid to the rear wheels.

Is that something that can still be done by one person? I'm thinking so as you could kill the psi without allowing any air back into the system, just asking because I've never used one.

There is a clip to hold the pin from 'sinking' into the valve. Thirty PSI isn't going to push the valve to one side.

However, if it does, relieve pressure and and pull/push pin to its center position.