Anyone here have experience to share on installing a Torque Slider? My trans started popping out of 3rd. It doesn't happen all the time, but I have to presume this will probably get worse. Common sense tells me I have to disassemble the trans to get to the main shaft although I have 0 experience doing this. My mechanical ability is above average but wanted to get opinions from anyone who has already done this themselves.

Thanks guys.

I had an M20 that popped out of first not too many years ago. I rebuilt the trans myself, with a lot of help from here. My previous experience was watching someone else do one, 30 years ago.

I replaced all the brass rings, all the keys, all the mainshaft bearings. Replaced the 1-2 hub, and used a new torque lock slider. To get to the 1-2 hub hub and slider, I had to have a shop press off second gear.

You can fix 3-4 without a press or any other special tools.

I never took the countershaft out of mine. It seemed happy, I left it alone.

Sounds good. Would you explain a little how much work this is to replace 3/4 slider? Are we talking taking the guts out and reassembling? Trying to gauge if I should attempt on my own or have a shop do this.

Thanks, FB

Get the Febraury 07 issue of Chevy punch magazine it has a good write up on how to rebuild your Muncie. I just did mine with a lot of help form Jody's transmissions and I thougt it went well. I didn't re-install it yet but it won't be long. You also can get all your parts from Jody as he gives everyone here on the site a great deal.

You have to remove the side cover and shift forks, remove the tailhousing, and then take out the mainshaft assembly. There is a snap ring that retains the 3rd gear syncro assembly. After that carefully drop the 3rd gear mainshaft end on the floor and the gear and hub will usually fall off. The outer sleeve just pulls off the inner hub once the syncro assembly is off the mainshaft, there are 3 clutch keys and also 2 energizer springs in the inner hub. You have to reassemble it with the new hook slider ( sleeve ) and then put the 3rd gear/ syncro assembly/snap ring back on. Then you must reinstall the mainshaft back into the case. There is also a caged roller assembly in the back of 4th gear (input) . To install the mainshaft the 3/4 syncro assembly must be carefully put into the 4th gear position so the outer sleeve clears the cluster gear upon reinstallation in the main case. Then you have to put the tailhousing back on with the rev idler and also make sure the rev fork engages with rev gear. Then the side cover can go on but the trans must be in 2nd gear to do this. You should also have a realistic look at the clutch gear teeth on 3rd gear when it is apart, as they are usually worn if they are jumping out of gear allready. You should also inspect other gears and rings for wear at this time also.
This process can be a little tricky for first time builders and I recomend you get a chiltons or whatever manual to guide you through it, or have someone who knows how, do it for you.
Hope this helps.

HArleyguy - Really great illustrated tech article. rszmjt - awesome detailed description. I will get myself really comfortable with this before I attempt to take anything apart. Thanks everyone, this stuff is really helpful

Get the Febraury 07 issue of Chevy punch magazine it has a good write up on how to rebuild your Muncie. I just did mine with a lot of help form Jody's transmissions and I thougt it went well. I didn't re-install it yet but it won't be long. You also can get all your parts from Jody as he gives everyone here on the site a great deal.

Steve, thanks for the kind words.......

Torque lock sliders are a great addition to a slightly worn Muncie gearset. I have been using these sliders for over 20 years with great success. I would suggest doing the 1-2 position if you are doing the 3-4.

But, before you tear into your Muncie, just make sure your shifter is adjusted properly. A too tight shifter stop bolt can cause gear hop out too.

The Chilton manual is a great resource and that is what I used back in the day. The Chevy Punch article is also a good reference AND it is free. :yes:

Steve, thanks for the kind words.......

Torque lock sliders are a great addition to a slightly worn Muncie gearset. I have been using these sliders for over 20 years with great success. I would suggest doing the 1-2 position if you are doing the 3-4.

But, before you tear into your Muncie, just make sure your shifter is adjusted properly. A too tight shifter stop bolt can cause gear hop out too.

The Chilton manual is a great resource and that is what I used back in the day. The Chevy Punch article is also a good reference AND it is free. :yes:

Listen to this guy!

He knows what he is saying.....GO FOR THE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT FIRST!!

Actually just thinking about it, there are many other reasons can cause it...

Excessively worn input shaft bearing and or center bearing can also cause it to pop out of gear!

Excessive end play in both main shaft and cluster gear

Worn slider and or slider dogs.

Worn meshing teeth on gears and syncros.

Hmmm....

No wonder why he knows...

his name is JodysTransmissions......i just noticed that.

Jody.

how much for a small parts kit for a 65 m21?

also some new sliders?

US bearings please......

Jody.

how much for a small parts kit for a 65 m21?

also some new sliders?

US bearings please......

Thank you for your inquiry, PM sent.

.GO FOR THE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT FIRST!!

Actually just thinking about it, there are many other reasons can cause it...

Excessively worn input shaft bearing and or center bearing can also cause it to pop out of gear!

Excessive end play in both main shaft and cluster gear

Worn slider and or slider dogs.

Worn meshing teeth on gears and syncros.

Any or all of those could have been the beginning of the problem, they should each be chacked and adjusted and fixed, but...

If she's popping out of gear, the slider is trashed.