I have a leak in my trunk of my camaro. It seems to be coming from where the trunk pivots to close. I cant tell were the leak is coming from. The rear glass has been replaced and resealed. No leaks on the inside of back glass. And the trunk has new weather stripping. Any suggestions. Its a small leak very annoying

Jerryt

There are several places run a forum seach , there are some damn good older posts covering where , why and how to fix temp and perminent.

Thanks will run a search on this site.
Thanks
Jerryt

What seal did you use? If it was the low cost seal then thats the problem---most likely.


Go with the GM seal. Expensive but worth it.

Have you checked tail light gaskets? Mine had water in trunk every time I washed it. Opened trunk and watched it trickle in as I ran a hose over tail lights.

Never seen a 69 trunk that wont leak.......(lol)

bingo, i have had a lot of these cars. seams like they all leak to some extent.

amen............................

Mine leaks too. Sounds like the same as yours. Mine is coming from the seam that runs down from each bottom corner of the rear glass. To see exactly where it is coming from I sprayed the car then climed into the trunk head first and up side down. Not very comfortable but you see the whole area that way. Good luck!

Do you have a vinyl top?
Could be rust holes under the vinyl?

You hant seen one not leak cause you havnt seen mine...its a daily, drives in storms so bad one has to stop due t reah heavy rain
Lives in the car car port, that faces to the sth...prevailing winds (sth hemisphere) drive in on the rear...
and dont have the expensive seal.
use tar impregnated foam seals around the rear lights
Spot welded seams that tend to leak are welded.
Bumper washers have gasket sealent behind them
Rust holes in rear window are welded/ rebuilt, not brazed and after the rear window was put in and extra urethane strip laid around it under the trim.

The orginal factory design as new worked, but given time, body twist they are prone to fail...a small improvement on this stops these faults.

i call bs on that one..........(lol) boy do i have a lot of crap to do to mine then...ill just not drive it in the rain...p.s. the water in new zealand is not as dense as it is here due to the elavation levels and humidity so it will dry quicker over there....kidding!!

Ou, ou, ou! Mine doesn't leak either teacher!!! This is 'show and tell', right?

p.s. the water in new zealand is not as dense as it is here due to the elavation levels and humidity so it will dry quicker over there....kidding!!

Well we are at sea level or there abouts, so it logically follows that the rain hast to fall further and gets faster on the way down...
PLUS you have heard of the old sailors sailing around the cape...roaring forties ....
Well combine that with the distance to fall...the mathmatical vector factor, the speed of the drops get upto horredious speeds...

Man...that load of BS actually sounds creditable !!!!!

mine leaks too....

Have someone hose it down while you are in the trunk with a flashlight. Be sure that the someone has the trunk key to let you out.

Wow I thought I was the only one whos car leaked. Ok lets start. The weather stripping is from soft seal. The tailight gaskets are new and are the thick ones. And no my car did not have a vinyl top. The leak seems to come from the seam on the right rear back glass . The drip comes down on the hinge for the trunk lid. I have noticed my chrome trim around the glass is not completly flush. I wonder if water could be seeping thru the uneven trim. I am going to climb inside and have my wife spray water and see if I can see where the water is coming from. Hope my wife lets me out.

Also I saw something in a previous post about putting vaseline around seals. I guess it will block the water when you are testing.
happy new year
Jerryt

about 3 months ago this got kicked around also. everyone seemed to agree to put the wife in the trunk with a flashlight and turn on the hose and not let her out till she finds the leak. (i guess she never found the leak so far, cause i sure missed her Christmas)

When you spray the water or better yet have your wife use a pitcher of water and just pour slowly. As for the gaskets, are they the foam type that comes in the paint kit ? If so, I recommend buying the original rubber type. Good Luck

The leak seems to come from the seam on the right rear back glass . The drip comes down on the hinge for the trunk lid. I have noticed my chrome trim around the glass is not completly flush

It is not the trim..that is just for show
From what u dwscribe:
1/you have a rust hole under the urethane that seals the glass in...but the chances are the water is seeping in higher up the side, then going down to the bottom edge, has formed a rust hole and leaking
Temp fix: remove trim, clean down paint ssurface and urethane and lay another layer od sealer in there...this will last 1 season before leaking again
Correct fix: pull the glass, weld/repair holes, clean , prime all surfaces then replace window...and lay the correct amount of urethane in correct manner

2/ the trim clip rivets hve not not been mounted correct..loose rivet, and sealer not appled to the hole 1st...this generally leads to a rust hole problem
Temp fix and Correct fix same as a bove

3/The body seams each side between the window and trunk lid have broke there seal with twist of the car body...these seams should be fully welded (factory is spot weld) from the very top lip to bottom lip. one can remove fill these in the final finish or keep for orginal look with tig or welding hi heat very low feed.

4/ Leaking in the channel joins/seamsseals...for some reason it is more likely to be the passengers side...When repairing , replacing with patch panels these are laped in the direction same as factory, and should be fully welded, not spot welded....also if the lip that the seal sits on is set too high or low causes a leak reagardless if the cheap or good seals are used. If too low (rare, the seal doesnt full seal with the trunk, if too high the truck is harder to close, and tends to flick up when opened, this pressure can then open or eventually open the body seam in the channel if it has not been fully welded.
Temp fix: remove rubber seal, clean and prep prime the channel seems, and seal with urethane...look ugly thu..do not seal from underneath..this causes water to be 'damed ' back which results in a rust issue further down the line.
Correct Fix: fully weld the seam.

After you do what step said, there's two more things.
1. Only let your car get wet when it's washed. And don't do it often. Use a California Duster instead.
2. Install a gutter drain in the bottom of the rear window channel. I installed 1/4" copper tubes. I flared the top to look like a funnel. Then pushed it into a drilled hole in the channel. One hole in each corner. The tubes are about 2" long. Seal with JB Weld. Then slip a piece of vinyl hose onto the tube-ing and then into a hole on top of each rear wheel well. Result; No standing water in channel AND no water stain on the top of the rear fender from water sloshing out of the channel after you dry the car. It's stood the test of time: 30 years.

What seal did you use? If it was the low cost seal then thats the problem---most likely.


Go with the GM seal. Expensive but worth it.

I bought that one but it was too stiff and tall. I bought a latex seal and it actually absorbed water like a sponge. The $13 Metro seems the best.

Check the tail light gaskets. They need to be sealed where they meet the lens.