View Full Version : Torque Wrench


rsb0719
Jan 5th, 09, 08:01 PM
Does anyone know what the best all around torque wrench is and the size and type; i.e. 1/4", 1/2" or 3/4", click type, etc? Thanks.

JimM
Jan 5th, 09, 08:09 PM
Well... I have 3. Got a 1/2 Craftsman beam type almost as old as I am. Still works perfect. Still 100% accurate. Still can be bought new for just a few dollars.

Got a click type snapon, also 1/2" drive. I "inherited" it several years ago, and have only started using it for the last year. Was hard to build up some trust, but I really like it now, particularly since I need my reading glasses to see the scale on the beam wrench. Scale is accurate to a pound, lock it and repeat. click click.

The most recent purchase happened when I had to do an intake manifold on a 3.1 V6. New engine use lots of TINY fasteners, long skinny things that get torqued to loke 12, or 16 inch pounds. So this one is a 3/8" drive inch pound wrench.

AlexFolino
Jan 5th, 09, 09:25 PM
I think it comes down to how much you want to spend? Do you want a click or a digital?

NHBandit
Jan 5th, 09, 09:34 PM
I have 3. A Craftsman beam type 1/4" drive in inch pounds for doing rolling tourque, etc when setting up rear ends, a Snap On 3/8 drive that goes from 5 ft lbs up to 60 I believe, and a 1/2 drive Snap On that goes from 25 ft lbs up to 200. Both of the Snap Ons are click type. In the past when I worked on heavy equipment I had a couple that were hydraulic and MUCH bigger. Had to use a 4-1 tourque multiplier on some stuff. For example the tourque on some of the nuts on the bigger hydraulic cylnders was 4000 ft lbs... If you're going to do much automotive stuff you'll need at least a couple different ones. A small one for the inch pound stuff like Jim mentioned and a larger ft lb version for headbolts, main bearing caps, etc.

rsb0719
Jan 6th, 09, 06:05 AM
Thanks everyone, I think I have the general idea what I need now, it seems I'll need at least two, one for inch-pounds and the other for foot-pounds. Just got to decide whether click type or digital. I'm leaning towards click since I a novice, just working on my car only and I am not a mechanic. Thanks again for all your help, great site.

SPARKY69
Jan 6th, 09, 06:09 AM
if your gonna buy one.... buy a snap-on...all others suck!!!

clill
Jan 6th, 09, 07:49 AM
I have several but recently bought a Snap On click type and was amazed at how smooth to adjust etc it is. Very nice piece.

BigBlock1969RS
Jan 6th, 09, 08:12 AM
Torque wrenches is probably one area I wouldn't skimp on, get a good one they are much more accurate than the cheaper ones (like Harbor freight). Again Snap-on makes a very high quality Torque Wrench. Most of my tools are from Sears except my torque wrenches which are all from Snap-On.

As far as 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 drive, that doesn't matter so much but torque wrenches usually have a range and are usually more accurate in the middle of their range. You probably will need 2-3 torque wrenches to cover a reasonable range of torque values.

Stainless dog
Jan 6th, 09, 09:04 AM
Always return your setting back to 0 when done for the day.

Ratpack
Jan 6th, 09, 10:54 AM
I bought a nice S&K click type..very pleased...1/2 inch drive...works great for heads and intakes.....

tumper
Jan 6th, 09, 12:32 PM
Always return your setting back to 0 when done for the day.
I don't ever turn it back to "0" as when they are shipped they are packaged with a slight load on the spring. My Snap On came with 40 lbs on the dial when I received it 15 years ago and I still unload it to this setting. From what I have been told, unloading it completely is worse than having it cranked to the max and storing. Just food for thought!

rszmjt
Jan 6th, 09, 02:06 PM
I don't ever turn it back to "0" as when they are shipped they are packaged with a slight load on the spring. My Snap On came with 40 lbs on the dial when I received it 15 years ago and I still unload it to this setting. From what I have been told, unloading it completely is worse than having it cranked to the max and storing. Just food for thought!

No Offence - Beg to differ But- A Spring in a Torque Wrench is like a valve spring it should be stored in a unloaded state to preserve the correct closed and open pressures and to avoid sagging. I have had my 1/2" drive Snap On Click Torque Wrench since around 1972 and I ALLWAYS put it back to zero, and it has built lots of engines etc. in the last 36 years. I have had it checked many times for calibration and it has never changed in all that time.
I also have a 1/2" Proto and a Mac and a flex Head Snap On 3/8 drive as well as a 1/4" drive Snap On and a inch pound Torque Guage for doing diff work and while they are OK I still use the Snap On more Frequently. JMO.

dbanas
Jan 6th, 09, 04:01 PM
A little off the topic, BUT, I have a 35 year old Craftsman and was wondering the best way to have it checked for accuracy. It is the type that you set the torque and it "clicks" when it reaches that point.

Any suggestions (other than throwing it away :sad:)

rszmjt
Jan 6th, 09, 04:44 PM
A little off the topic, BUT, I have a 35 year old Craftsman and was wondering the best way to have it checked for accuracy. It is the type that you set the torque and it "clicks" when it reaches that point.

Any suggestions (other than throwing it away :sad:)

This has been discussed before I think.
Anyway any Snap on or other tool dealer has the ability to test torque wrenches, or you can do it youself . If a buddy has a known Good Torque Wrench you simply put them opposite each other with male/female torx sockets and check which one clicks first at a determined torque setting.
Hope this helps. Mike.

fugetaboti
Jan 18th, 09, 10:47 AM
I am a calibration technician for the US Navy and I can tell you for sure that you should always return them to 0 when finished using them. Also if you drop a torque wrench regardless of brand, you should have it checked. I can't tell you how many torque wrenches I've had come into my shop that were dropped, and the calibration was thrown off. We mostly use SNAP-ON in aviation, and even those lose their accuracy if mistreated. I've even seen some that were brand new and slightly out of specs. If I wasn't up here in Great Lakes pushing boots right now I would say you could send me your wrenches and I would calibrate them for you, but you will have to wait about another 3 years for some free cal services.

fugetaboti
Jan 18th, 09, 10:49 AM
Also, if you check one wrench with another, you will incorporate the error of both into it. Everything should be checked against a standard which is traceable to NIST!

puff puff
Jan 18th, 09, 10:32 PM
Does anyone know where to get a good wrench that measures in inch lbs., not ft.lbs?