View Full Version : rear main


willard
Jan 6th, 09, 04:42 PM
can the rear main seal be changed without removing the engine in a 69 camaro with 396 and a 4speed?thanks in advance.

rszmjt
Jan 6th, 09, 04:57 PM
can the rear main seal be changed without removing the engine in a 69 camaro with 396 and a 4speed?thanks in advance.

Craig, It is not that hard to do, you have to remove the dist cap and possibly the dist itself as well as the clutch fan. Undo the engine mounts and jack up the engine to get the pan off. Drop off the oil pump and then remove the main cap. The 1/2 seal in the cap is easy, the 1/2 in the block is more work. Carefully ( so as not to nick the crank ) take a small screwdriver and give the seal a push, it should move. Once it is hanging down a little simply grab it with pliers and rotate it out. Reinstall the new seal ( in the correct direction ) using the little plastic tool they supply with the seal ( so as not to rip out a chunk of the new seal ) and then put the other 1/2 back in the main cap. Be sure to put a little sealer on the seal ends and the cap parting line where the seal area is. Reinstall the cap, making sure the crank is pried rearward or forward to establish thrust clearance. Reinstall the pan and other parts and your good to go.

Are you sure the seal is leaking? Reason I ask is that 90% of the time it is only the oil pan rear seal. Not to scare you but unless it is a high miler, a leaking rear seal is usually the sign of other problems. Eg. Brgs.

zdld17
Jan 6th, 09, 05:22 PM
Probably would not hurt to clock the sealing ends of the seal, off about ¼" off sealing lines and apply a dab of sealer on each corner, This keeps the parting lines of the seal in the cap and block rather that at the parting line of the cap. Make sense. Just a precaution.

JimM
Jan 6th, 09, 05:54 PM
While people say it can be done... and theoretically it can be, it's tough to do, and even tougher without boogering up the old seal.

I tried to change mine last winter with the engine upside down on a stand, far from the car. I ended up pulling the pistons, rods, and crank.

And something under there is still leaking.:confused:

rszmjt
Jan 6th, 09, 05:59 PM
I have done quite a few before, its not really a big deal, small blocks are easy, but big blocks try your patience a bit more. Heck I have even rebrginged the engine in chassis before as the brgs never seem to be nice. As I posted the seal is not usually the culprit, 90% of the time it is the pan or something else.

ls427ss
Jan 6th, 09, 07:40 PM
I would rather have redwood splinters in my d!ck than to try and seal up a big block oil pan in the car, let alone replacing the seal. Save the torment and torture and pull it out so you can move around, clean for reassembly, and maybe even squirt a fresh coat of paint on it so it looks like you did something... it will probably take less time to pull the motor vs fighting everything and putting new knots on your head trying to see what you are doing, and if you do try to do it in the car... you may end up pulling it anyway and be mad enough :angry: to not need a cherry picker. IMHO if I was going to do it without pulling it, I would smash a couple fingers first so I would have the full effect of what I remember it was like doing it in the car when I should have known better... :noway: lol

willard
Jan 7th, 09, 03:33 PM
i was hoping it was the pan but not.the engine was completely rebuilt by a pro. with the crank being cut and balanced.started leaking shortly after.i have a lift so maybe that will help in this task.thanks for your reply.