Hi Guys ...

Going over several things before my first ride in my '68 ...

During the restoration I installed an all new brake system front to rear with stainless lines, Disks, etc ...

This is a Manual system ... no booster ...

I assume that even though this is a manual system, the master cylinder still needs to have a Bench Bleed performed ... correct?

I'm going to use the Motive Products 4 qrt. power bleeder (part #0305) along with the square tubing/C-clamp trick to get a better seal to bleed the entire system ...

Even with this, I assume a Bench Bleed is still necessary ... Correct?

Lastly the Master Cylinder is currently installed and I'll remove to perform the Bench Bleed unless it would be fine if I could just unhook the lines and bleed in the car (2 man operation, one to push the pedal and one to look for no more air in the master cylinder) ...

Any issues with doing it this way in the car ???

When bleeding the entire system ... I was planning to first pressurize with 15-20 psi or so OF AIR ONLY and see if there are any air leaks in the lines, fittings, etc ... prior to loading the Motive Tank with fluid and then bleed under 10 psi or so ... from the passenger rear, then driver rear ... passenger front and lastly the driver front ...

Anything else???

Thanks for the clarification and help Guys ...

-TIM

Correct, but you & an assistant can bench bleed on the car since it is a manual. Do the same trick on the car as you would on the bench - extra rags and drip pan to catch fluid.

After the MC is bled, hook up the MT and go for it.

When bleeding the entire system ... I was planning to first pressurize with 15-20 psi or so OF AIR ONLY and see if there are any air leaks in the lines, fittings, etc ... prior to loading the Motive Tank with fluid and then bleed under 10 psi or so ...


That's not going to work because @ 15psi-20psi of air, it's going to blow air right out the rear of the master cylinder!....You'll be able to notice any leakage of brake fluid at the fittings when you start the pressure bleeding process then you can tighten down any loose fittings.....Just remember to keep the pressure @ 10psi when actually performing the bleeding, anything higher, the brake fluid will start leaking out the rear of the master creating a mess and removing paint off your freshly painted subframe!.....I guess you could bleed the master installed on the car but I prefer the bench bleed method!

Thanks Guys ... I really appreciate the help ...

You're Welcome!:thumbsup:.....Also, the square tubing ain't necessary, just a good 6" C-Clamp will do the trick!:yes:.....Anything's better than those funky chains and hooks!:mad:

I just bled my manual front disc rear drum set-up with the motive bleeder. It was the easiest brake bleeding job i've done. Get yourself a bunch of rags to put under the master cylinder. I bench bled my master cylinder out of the car. I was told that you won't get enough piston travel if you do it on the car. It only took about 15 minutes for the bench bleed. You only need 10 psi to do the whole procedure. Once you've completed your leak check, add your fluid and repressurize. At this stage, don't open any bleeder screws. Do a good walk around and make sure you don't have any leaks. I suspect you'll have a few, especially with stainless lines. Once you tighten up any leaks then start the actual bleed. Go slow and keep checking for leaks. When I installed my brakes, I was very confident I made good connections, but I ended up with 3 leaks anyway.
Good luck.

He will need the square tubing to clamp the c-clamp down on the seal.
Also you don't really need a four quart power bleeder. I did my complete system, new brake lines, new disc's, drums, master cylinder with just the two quart. I gravity bleeded them first.

I never used any square tubing, just a 6" C-Clamp, and I was happy and successful!:hurray:....I did learn my lesson after decreasing the pressure from 12psi-15psi down to 10psi!:mad:

Ditto what John said.
I used the smaller bleeder and never had to refill on a dry system. I ended up using a piece of scrap plate to clamp down the adapter. You'll need something to distribute the pressure from the c-clamp or it'll leak.

The master cylinder adapter plate is rubber cushioned, for an excellent seal:yes:, without the use of square tubing:noway:, which I didn't use, and was happy, successful and leakfree!:hurray:

thanx for posting this thread, i am about to do the same exact thing in about half an hour with a 4qt power bleeder :beers:

well i finished bleeding the brakes, it went well and quick once i got the MC sealed good, the whole time i thought i had a 6 inch c clamp but turns out it was a 4 inch, but i found a good spot where it caught, and i turned to.........those damn chains and hooks! but they actually did good, and i didnt have square tubing, so i mcguyver'd it and used my old manual trans brake pedal hahah it all held no leaks! but once you get it sealed, it goes quick, and feels good watching all thats dirty old fluid leave your system. but i do have to agree, the 4qt is WAAAAAAAAY overkill, 2 qt would have been fine, gotta wait til i start the car again this weekend and go for a test drive and see how it all goes,
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/crazyd510/brakebleeding005.jpg

I wish you luck - as you asked.

Damian, glad it went good!!!

To keep mess to a minimum I also never fill the motive container, just the MC. It may take a few top-ups but it's been simple and easy.

Congrats!

Fill the MC with fluid. Attach the motive bleeder, NO fluid in bleeder. Pump to 10-15 psi. Check for leaks at adapter/MC connection, as well as at all line connections. Observe the pressure gauge - if you lose pressure you have a leak somwhere. Once assured leak free, bleed pressure from Motive bleeder, fill bleeder jar with fluid, and pump to 10-15 psi. Bleed brakes in normal fashion. On last wheel, tilt Motive jar so that the pickup tube is OUT of the fluid in the jar. Bleed that last wheel, relieve pressure, and you're done. This last step assures that you don't have the MC absoutely topped off when you're done. Great tool!!

PS The square tubing and a C-Clamp works great, whether absolutely necessary or not.