engine assembly lube
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engine assembly lube needs to be used to protect your engine durring the first few minutes its running to protect the new parts as they start to lap in ,BEARINGS,CAM LOBES, LIFTERS,ROCKER ARMS,AND TIMEING CHAINS/GEARS, DISTRIBUTOR GEARS,ETC. ARE VERY IMPORTANT TO COAT TOTALLY DURRING THE ASSEMBLY PROCESS. first spray the contact surfaces with this ultra penatrateing moly-disulfide lube the carrier in the spray can allow the moly to soak into the metals surface,this stuff has been proven to coat the inside surface of rifle barrels and drastically reduce wear and friction even at temps of over 500 degs(F) and at pressures over 50,000psi,this forms your base layer,moly disulfide greatly increases the load and heat carrying ability of the lubericant and coating the surface with a layer of ultra-fine 20 micron moly before coating things with the lube gets the moly into the metal surfaces (check out the electron microscope photos) next use a good assembly lube that contains moly disulfide and/or zinc dialkyt-dithiophosphate both of which greatly add to the extreme pressure and heat resistance on the bearing or cam lobe surfaces.
heres some sources; http://www.msmoly.com/ http://www.mrmoly.com/catalog.html http://www.schaefferoil.com/data/221.html http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/214e.pdf http://www.cranecams.com/instructio...ain/camfail.htm
these are proven Anti-Wear Agents
These agents prevent wear due to seizure or rubbing surfaces. Compounds such a zinc dialkyt-dithiophosphate break-down microscopic hot spots and form a chemical filter which eliminates metal-to-metal contact.
also read this because the quality of the oil you use also has a big effect on how your engine wears during its lifetime. http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

REMEMBER WHAT YOUR TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH IS THE TOTAL PREVENTION OF METAL TO METAL CONTACT, AND ONLY THE BEST ANTI-WEAR LUBERICANTS PLACED BETWEEN CONTACT SURFACES AND FLOWING INTO THE CLEARANCES CAN DO THAT !
BTW DON,T FORGET TO PRELUBE THE ENGINE WITH AN ENGINE PRELUBER WHILE TURNING IT OVER BY HAND UNTILL OIL FLOWS FROM ALL THE PUSH RODS ONTO ALL THE ROCKER ARMS BEFORE STARTING A NEW ENGINE! and make sure your oil and coolent levels are correct too!

Welcome Grumpyvette! I know you from Chevytalk.com. As usual, lots of good info here.

Jody

thanks for the welcome in!

What the heck was that all about?

Really!!Most of us read chevytalk grumpyvette you don't have to start that stuff here.

Grumpyvette AKA IgnitionMan? http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif

[This message has been edited by grumpyvette (edited 03-14-2002).]

Actually I'd bet most people here are not even aware of Chevytalk.com. The info he's posting is good to read through even if you're an expert car guy!

Jody

Don't get your dander up, I's jus funnin'. I ain't been around long enough to know what all the fuss was about.
Actually I didn't know about Chevytalk myself and I could defintely use all the schoolin' I can get. So as far as I'm concerned, keep it comin'

I didn't mean anything offensive by my post...it just seems that this came out of nowhere.

I will NEVER use assembly lube again after I got some that was a bad mix. It scratched every bearing in my engine and I never even cranked it up. Cost me over $100.00 and I had to repolish my crank. All I can say is beware!

http://www.mrmoly.com/catalog.html
Any relation to Miss Molly? Good golly!
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
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67 RS 327 Origonal owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer

Neal,

do you put your engines together dry now, and hope for the best? breaking in a cam without lube seems like a shaky proposition at best...

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1971 Nova(looks like 69 camaro from underneath!)
355sb, vortec heads, HOT cam,T-10 tranny, 3.70 gears 16X8" IROC wheels. 12" Corvette brakes on the way.
see pics here http://community.webshots.com/user/novaderrik

Back in my old days we used STP. I guess that's not vogue anymore?

NealM
"I will NEVER use assembly lube again after I got some that was a bad mix. It scratched every bearing in my engine and I never even cranked it up. Cost me over $100.00 and I had to repolish my crank. All I can say is beware!"

sounds like you used VALVE GRINDING COMPOUND http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.camaros.net/forum/rolleyes.gif

I bought "CRC Assembly Lube" at a local auto parts store. I had the short block all together and I saw something that I wanted to check on a rod. When I pulled the rod cap off, that is when I noticed the scratches on the bearing. I proceded to pull the next, then the next till I had the whole thing apart and every bearing looked the same. It looks like the moly that did the nasty thing to the bearings. This stuff wasn't milled right or something.

I got a new set of bearings and this time I used GM's EOS (Engine Oil Suppliment). This is by far the best stuff I have ever used to assemble and engine.

By the way, I tested to see if a new bearing without any oil at all could be scratched by the crank and it did not. Of course it depends how smooth your crank is also.

I used assembly lube on all my engines until I had this happen to me. I talked to the guy at the performance machine shop that does all my work and he said he has heard of the same thing happening before. All I can say is "Watch Out" because it happen to me. That $5.00 tube cost me over $100.

what about "drag racing assembly lube"? it comes in a spray can.
How about red line assembly lube

NealM
I have no idea what that stuff you used had in it but pure moly assembly lube is super slick with nothing in it that could scratch a bearings surface, its nothing more than an extremely high quality high pressure resistant grease with the ability to penetrate into the bearing surface and form a chemical bond that allows the bearing to run at temps and pressures it could not possiably handle useing oil alone, btw that E.O.S. is great stuff AND I ADD A CAN TO THE OIL SOMETIMES ON SOLID LIFTER FLAT TAPPET CAM BREAKINS TOO BUT IT CAN LEAVE BEHIND AN ASH IN THE UPPER CYLINDERS THAT CAN HELP CAUSE DETONATION PROBLEMS UNDER LOAD, SO its not good for extended use its only for engine break durring the first 50 miles or so, then the filter and oil should be changed to remove it from your engine.

heres what the G.M. parts catalog says


16oz GM EOS Price: $4.95
Part # 1052367


GM's Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) is the best oil additive and engine assembly lube that we have found! Try some in your oil the for initial break-in of your new engine!

SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS:NOT RECOMMENDED FOR USE AS AN ADDITIVE FOR ENGINE OIL.

I also have used STP - mixed 50/50 with oil - as an assembly lube for years. I assembled lots of VW motors with that stuff and my current 400. Works great. I've also had good luck with LubriPlate. I'll have to try the GM stuff next time around.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)

NealM,

I don't know if it was the lube that you used or not. Seem to me that it could have been grinding dust from when the crankshaft ground.We tell all the customers at our shop to thoroughly clean the crank with hot soapy water and run a brush through the oil holes in the crank,then blow dry with air.Washing the crank is the only to get this grit out,just air blowing will not get the grit out.The block also neeeds to be scrubbed in the same way.As much as we try to clean things,there is just to much dirt floating around in the air of a machine shop.You would be surprised at the number of customers that occasionally come back with a problem and the bottom end looks like they assembled the engine in a sand storm.The first thing you ask them is did you clean everything and they tell you it was already clean.I'm not saying this was your case,but just something to think about. http://www.camaros.net/forum/confused.gif


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DaveP
80Z28

[This message has been edited by usa z28 (edited 03-15-2002).]

usa z28,
Yes I agree with your thinking but I tell you that the block, crank, rods, pistons and all the oil galleries were so clean you could eat off them. I even use a magnifing glass with a bright light to inspect everything because sometimes you can see things that normally you wouldn't. The first thought is the parts weren't clean but they were. And "yes" the assembly room was clean too. The thing you would have to see is that everywhere I put the lube, it scratched. You could NOT feel it either on you fingers. What ever is was, it was hard enough to make me re-polish my crank. If you look at the bearings close with a magnifing glass, it looks like something black burried into the bearing. I tried to pick some of it out but I couldn't. It wouldn't desolve either. The scratches were probability about 2 thousands deep I would gress.

I'm here to tell you that it WAS the lube and if you use an assembly lube, I would check a bearing after installation. If I had not pulled one of my rod caps off, I would have not seen it and had big problems with mine. I'm not saying assembly lube is a bad thing (I used it a bunch of times), I'm just stating that I got a BAD batch and you need to beware when using it. "Check it after you torque a bearing down". Learn from other peoples problems. LOL Guys

Hmm....well, in my engine the only 'assembly lube' we used was on the cam lobes. All bearing surfaces were thoroughly oiled, but not assembly lube was used on them...

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79' Z28 4-spd- built 355, TRW 10:1 forged flat tops, WP SportsmanII heads, Crane Energizer 230/230 duration .480"/.480" lift, Edelbrock Victor Jr., Holley 750cfm, Dynomax headers, dual 3" flowmasters :) 3.73 Posi 10-bolt