I am going to be doing a 4 wheel disc brake upgrade. I want to do LS1s on the front, LT1s on the rear on my 68 non-power with drums all around (staggered rear shocks).
Here is what I have so far:
LS1 calipers/baskets
LS1 front discs
LT1 rear discs
LS1 front brackets (custom made by a pro-touring member).
Pads for all of the above.

I am thinking of getting the Raybestos 5000B wheel stud. The PT member said I would need them even though they are for a 69 - I assume they would work. (I have the 17" TTIIs, I assume the 5000b's will not be too long).

As far as a booster goes, I am thinking about the 11" booster from right stuff detailing part #RPB1003, and I was thinking of going to NAPA or something to get a 69 manual master cylinder, and summit's SUM-G3910 brake proportioning valve.

Also I need to call Kore to order the front brake hoses.

I will remove my spindles and hubs and have the upper boss machined down, hubs turned down to 5.75, and studs pressed in.

For the rear, I know I need to order 2 RH LT1 rear brackets/calipers.

Here are the questions:

1) Do I need slave cylinders? What part numbers and where to get?
2) Will I have to re-bend/change any hard lines?
3) What hoses/crush washers/banjo bolts do I need for the rears and where do I get them?
4) What seals/bearings do I need? I'd like to replace all the wheel related parts (bearings, seals) but I don't know what parts they are or where to get them.
5) Is there anything I am missing?

I appreciate all of your help in advance! If I make this work, I'll be posting a detailed write-up with pictures and part lists, as I don't see any comprehensive LS1/LT1 specific posts here. Thanks all!

Here are the questions:

1) Do I need slave cylinders? What part numbers and where to get? not sure I understand this question.
2) Will I have to re-bend/change any hard lines? fronts - no. Rears - yes. Youll need to attach brackets to the axle tubes for the hard/flrx line juction, and you'll need to re-do the hardlines on the axle.
3) What hoses/crush washers/banjo bolts do I need for the rears and where do I get them? Kore3 has all of this stuff and Tobin is very helpful4) What seals/bearings do I need? I'd like to replace all the wheel related parts (bearings, seals) but I don't know what parts they are or where to get them. 68 Camaro drum front seals and bearings, assuming you are using the stock drum hubs - local parts house5) Is there anything I am missing?

I used these studs on my C5/LT1 swap with TTII's - perfect. NAPA/Balkamp part number 641-1268 - 2 1/8" long, 7/16-20 thread

Also, last I checked the RH caliper bracket has been discontinued by GM - you night have to hunt up a used set - I did

I appreciate all of your help in advance! If I make this work, I'll be posting a detailed write-up with pictures and part lists, as I don't see any comprehensive LS1/LT1 specific posts here. Thanks all!

..

I have a guy locally that sells the brackets for $30 a set, but he only sells them in pairs. Anyone want to buy two LH caliper brackets for an LT1? :)
Thanks for your help.

By slave cylinders I mean wheel cylinders. Do I need them?

Did you have to press in the studs?

As far as re-doing the hardlines at the axle - you mean the lines from the little splitter to the brakes? Does anyone sell these lines pre-bent?
Thanks!
Ryan

Oh, and where can I get the line brackets for the rear tubes? Must they be welded? Can I get away without welding them?

I have a guy locally that sells the brackets for $30 a set, but he only sells them in pairs. Anyone want to buy two LH caliper brackets for an LT1? :)
Thanks for your help.

By slave cylinders I mean wheel cylinders. Do I need them? No. Disc brakes use calipers, not wheel cylinders. One tidy package.
Did you have to press in the studs? I used an air impact gun with a stack of washers and an old lug nut to pull them in
As far as re-doing the hardlines at the axle - you mean the lines from the little splitter to the brakes? Yes. Those are the ones.Does anyone sell these lines pre-bent? Not that I'm aware of. They're easy enough to make yourself. You can buy brake tubing at NAPA with the ends already flared and bend them yourself, but the length will likely not be exactly what you want. A good double flaring tool and a little know how comes in handy here.
Thanks!
Ryan

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Oh, and where can I get the line brackets for the rear tubes? Must they be welded? Can I get away without welding them? kore3 sells those as well as all of the little pieces for the swap. Talk to Tobin. He'll fix you up. Great guy. You can use a large hose clamp to attach them if you wish. I prefer welded, but that's just me.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/DSCN0066.jpg

Great picture. A few more questions - do I need a prop valve? What are all the valves I need for a disc/disc combo?
And the other thing - I really want power brakes. With my cam, below, I don't recall ever having about 10" of vacuum. Is that right? What could be causing this?

I still haven't seen on your list rear calipers, or hoses, to hard lines.

Great picture. A few more questions - do I need a prop valve? With that combo, I think you can do without. andrew on this board, user name x33d80 did exactly yhe swap you are doing and I don't think he used one. If you want to be totally safe, install an adjustable prop valve in the rear brake line. This of course would require you to do some more hard line reworking. PM Andrew - he knows this exact swap. Mine is very similar, but I used C5 fronts. Not much different.What are all the valves I need for a disc/disc combo?
And the other thing - I really want power brakes. With my cam, below, I don't recall ever having about 10" of vacuum. Is that right? What could be causing this? Different question for a different forum - post it in engine or performance.

FYI - I'm using hydroboost and the stock 1 1/8 disc/drum MC - it works perfectly.

I called Tobin earlier at kore3 and got his 5 line kit. I also ordered two RH calipers from rock auto. I take it 10" is not enough for power?

I called Tobin earlier at kore3 and got his 5 line kit. I also ordered two RH calipers from rock auto. I take it 10" is not enough for power?

It should be OK. 69 Z28's had right around 10, and power discs were on all of them. You will probably need a different MC. Talk to Andrew. I think i've heard of a Corvette MC that has all of the ports in the right places and a 1" bore, and looks factory. Also, dont forget park brake cables. Another thing, from what I've heard, the Rock Auto calipers do not include the park brake mechanism, so you might have to round those up. I know, lots of little things, but the fun is in saying you did it yourself.

PM sent to Ryan

Tobin told me a 68 booster would work with a 67-76 vette disc/disc mc, but that it would take 18" of vacuum. I gotta put a gauge on it again, but last time I did it was very low. I'll call you tomorrow Al if I can't figure it out.
Thanks.
Ryan