View Full Version : 67 rs factory temp gauge


boatnutt
Jan 27th, 09, 05:02 PM
Hi, i want to put the original console gauges in my camaro. Does anyone know what the temp ranges are on the original gauge? I have an engine that it would be nice to know what temp it is at. For example, is the middle 180 degrees?

Everett#2390
Jan 27th, 09, 06:09 PM
Usually, the first mark to the left of cenbter is 180°F, center is 210°F, followed by 240°F and the last is 265°F.

Get a good mental 'feel', run the engine up to operating temp and feel the top hose, when the thermostat opens, hose gets hot, look at the gauge to get an idea of backyard calibration.

dnult
Jan 27th, 09, 07:31 PM
That's a good idea Everett.

If you're looking for precise readings, there is a way to characterize the guage and sender. You can use a digital ohm meter to mesure the resistance of the sender while it's in a pan of water on the stove. Turn on the heat and take resistance and temperature measurements every 20 degrees or so until the water boils. Then go back to the car and use a potentiometer in place of the sending unit - adjust the pot until you get a full scale reading on the gauge. Remove the potentiometer and meaure it's resistance. Then put the pot back in place of the sender and adjust it to the first mark on the gauge. Measure the resistance. You can repeat this for mid-scale and whatever else you like. Then compare the resistance readings of the pot to your table of sending unit values to know exactly what the guage is telling you.

Some may call that overkill though :D

Melrose RS
Jan 28th, 09, 07:58 AM
That's a good idea Everett.

If you're looking for precise readings, there is a way to characterize the guage and sender. You can use a digital ohm meter to mesure the resistance of the sender while it's in a pan of water on the stove. Turn on the heat and take resistance and temperature measurements every 20 degrees or so until the water boils. Then go back to the car and use a potentiometer in place of the sending unit - adjust the pot until you get a full scale reading on the gauge. Remove the potentiometer and meaure it's resistance. Then put the pot back in place of the sender and adjust it to the first mark on the gauge. Measure the resistance. You can repeat this for mid-scale and whatever else you like. Then compare the resistance readings of the pot to your table of sending unit values to know exactly what the guage is telling you.

Some may call that overkill though :D

Love it! Thanks for the tech. Now all we need is a good way to mark some numbers on those factory gauge faces and have them look original.:yes:

Everett#2390
Jan 28th, 09, 09:31 AM
Love it! Thanks for the tech. Now all we need is a good way to mark some numbers on those factory gauge faces and have them look original.:yes:Masking tape and a ball point pen.

really though, Dave's idea is good and more technical, and one could even calibrate the gauge better.

boatnutt
Feb 2nd, 09, 10:43 PM
Does anyone know if the sending unit should be in the head or the top of the manifold near the termostat housing. I have it now in the manifold, and it shows to be around 240 (acording to what i have read about were the temp is) degrees. That seems a little warm concidering it was only 27 degrees when i drove it. The sending unit and gauges are new factory repros. Classic industries is were i got the facory console gauges along with the matching sending unit. The camaro is a 67 with a mild 454. I havent checked the temp with my digital infared gauge yet, but the engine didnt act like a 240 degree motor.

Everett#2390
Feb 3rd, 09, 04:24 AM
Needle should be in the left half of the gauge if a 180°F thermostat is used.
You might have to do Dave's dunk test in the water and see if the gauge will match it.

Was there a hole in the back of the gauge for calibrating?
OE position for the sending unit is in the head, but manifold is okay and it should read alittle cooler than the head, maybe 10°-15° cooler.

boatnutt
Feb 3rd, 09, 09:56 PM
I never looked to see if the gauge has a calibration hole. Dang, it would be a pain to unbolt and take out to look. It would be nice if i could just get another sender to bring it closer.

boatnutt
Feb 4th, 09, 07:02 PM
Ok, figured out the heat problem. Took the car about 10 blocks to the insurance company to get insurance and straight back. The car got up to around 240 again in 27 degree wheather. Took the thermostat out and looked at it wile the engine was still hot. The thermostat was a 180 and was barely open. Cut out the guts and used what was left as a restrictor and when for a drive again later today. Drove the car around for about 45 minutes in 50 degree wheather and the temp never went over 150. Glad to see that it was the thermostat! The previous owner could never use the vintage a/c in the summer because it ran too hot. Usually the problems i have with my motors arent this easy to fix.

Everett#2390
Feb 4th, 09, 07:20 PM
Cool!