Hi, Just wondering what type of power I should expect from this combo(Rear wheels and crank)....
350 4-bolt, (bored .030" over, honed, hot tanked, etc.)
882 Casting heads (2.02/1.60 valves, z28 springs, 3-angle valve job, port-polish, roller rockers.)
Eagle Crank, Eagle Rods (5.7"), Keith Black pistons,10.5:1 compression, Comp Cams Magnum 270H, Comp Cams Magnum Hydrolic Lifters, Pete Jackson Noisy Timing gear, Weiand X-celerator (Single Plane) intake manifold, Holley 750 Double Pumper, MSD distributor, MSD Blaster 2 coil, Accel 300+ race wires, Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, Full Synthetic Fluids (Full Drivetrain)(Royal purple, or Redline).

All of this will be running through a built 700r4 auto tranny with a B&M stage 2 shiftkit, and a B&M 2500 stall converter...
and a chevy 10-bolt (7.5") Posi-trac (4.10) rearend.

It would be greatly appreaciated if you could run the numbers on this...

Thanks!!!

oh, and exhaust is Flowtech Shorty headers, running through True dual Flowmaster 40-series (2-chamber) mufflers which turn down right before the rear axle... (No Cats....) 2.5" pipe...

I would say maybe 325 on the motor and 240 to 250 to the wheels. Should be good for high 13's or so.

I'd be inclined to guess closer to 400 crank and 300+ at the rear wheels...but that's just a ballpark guess - no analyzer software. You're setup doesn't sound TOO different from mine...although a little more flow on the top end might give you a little less bottom end torque, and a little more top end. Some "dragstrip" software I used to have put my combo, as best I could model it, in that ballpark. Probably capable of high 12's to low 13's. Others will likely know better.

The 882 heads/shortie headers/single plane in my opinion are not matched to well. If you dont already have the parts metioned for the same money you could have a much stronger combo. I say go with full length 1 5/8 headers/RPM air gap intake and some Vortec iron heads.

6D9 might be on the right track...I was assuming well-ported 882's might be capable of flow similar to the vortecs. And, unless you've got heads that flow very well (a ways better than vortecs), and plan to run it toward 7000 rpm, the single plane and the 750DP are probably overkill, and costing you performance. And, like 6D9 said, if you've got room for full length headers, go for them. Of course, shorties are better than nothing.

the 882's I have, have 76cc combustion chambers... what size pistons should I get to get the compression ratio atleast to 10:1????

small cam, small heads, low stall, BIG intake??

Can that intake and buy a performer RPM.

Also, dont waste your time with the jackson gear drive, just buy a quality Melling timing set.

Carb is also too large for thgat combo, a 650 would be a better choice, IMO.

Yup, my thoughts exactly.

Hello Team!

Yup, that cam and intake would definitely emilinate higher HP numbers. a RPM performer and a tuned 650 should do the trick. single plane and carb should be used for another modification that you wanna use in the future.

Which intake is it...the 7546 or the 7547? Both are actually small port single planes..not like a vic jr. or 7530 weaind. The 7546 with the plenum divider installed is an excellent match for that cam, and provides a power band similar to a performer rpm (1500-6500). However, 10.5-1 is way too high for a 270 magnum with 882 heads...it is gauranteed to ping like crazy. Drop it back to about 9.0-9.5 and you will have a pretty good match. Typically this setup will make about 325 hp...the heads just don't flow that good.

ok, I just got a new 650 dp, the intake is the 7546 singleplane... I will have these heads port-polished, they have a 3-angle valve job, with 2.02/1.60 valves... so they should flow pretty good once I get them port-polished... right???
also, what size pistons should I use to get a good 9.5:1? compression ratio? the combustion chambers are kinda large, but they will have to do untill I get enough money to get a set of Edelbrock Performer RPM's...

Thanks!!!

any further info is greatly appreaciated...

right now my car still has the stock torque converter, will there be a big difference when I put in the 2500 stall??? how much better will the launch be??? also, should I get 4.10 or 3.73's for the 10-bolt... I plan on having the car finished within a month... so I am kinda in a hurry to get the thing built... graemlins/clonk.gif

3.73's are plenty with that cam, unless you are running a real tall rear tire. Definately get the 2500 stall convertor...that cam can get by with a stock convertor but you are giving up quite a bit of launch power with a stocker. A forged flat top piston, 0 decked, with .038 gaskets will put you right about 9.0-1. Mill the heads to 72cc (about .030 if the heads have neever been milled before) and you will have a better chamber and about 9.5-1. With a good bowl blend/pocket port (don't worry about polishing...wont hurt the exhaust but you dont want the intake port polished) and gasket match, and about 9.5-1, you could be up around 350hp.

It sounds as if you are going to spend quite a few bucks on those heads (bigger valves, porting, etc). Compare the price of that work to say a set of dart s/r torquers (2.02/1.60's, screw in studs, and good valve springs)...you may be money ahead going with an aftermarket heads, and they will definately make more power.

yea, I have allready had most of the stuff done to the heads, (Cleaned, new Valve springs, 2.02/1.60 new valves, new valve guides, the works) but I am definately gonna get them ported... and I will see what I can do about getting the combustion chamber milled... I am running around $600 into the heads so-far... I know that I would be better off with a set of S/R's but my dad is pretty much financing the whole project, and it kinda has to be done his way... I am just trying to squeeze as much power out of this motor for the money... He's not really a "Performance Junkie" like I am... I have been working on cars since I was 3, so I know how to get some power... but when it comes to REALLY technical stuff, I come on here...lol...
so, you say 3.73's will be good for this motor, I will be running a 295/60/15 Hoosier DOT tire on the street then just drop some pressure for the track... I will be happy with low 13's before Nitrous... this is my goal... and with a good set of slicks, and Nitrous... (Hopefully one day) I wanna be in the 11's... I know that slicks and NOS will not make that much of a difference, but that is my goal one day... but for now I will be happy with 13's... MUCH better than the stock 17 sec motor... (305)... I'm estimating it might run about mid 14 ish now... I ran it in the 1/8'th and it ran 10.40 with 255/60/15's (Radials)... Off the line I did a 90ft burnout... so, I need some slicks...


Thanks for all of your help....