I recently installed the Right Stuff Disc Brake Conversion for all four wheels on my 67 and just want to check a couple things with you guys.

First, after I take it out and drive it and slam the brakes a few times, the rotors in the front are hot but the rears are only warm. It feels like the rears are working, but its hard to tell. The emergency brake is working correctly. Does that seem correct that the front rotors would be much hotter than the rear?

Also, as far as pedal travel goes. The pedal goes down at least a couple of inches before the brakes engage. It does feel pretty firm at that point but it seems like it is going farther than say my crappy acura brakes go before engaging. I wondering if it sounds like I still have air in the system.

Slam on the brakes a few times? Ouch. What do you mean by 'slam'? Did you follow the manufacturers' break-in recommendation? I like a series of moderate stops with new brakes. But that's not on my Camaro. It still has original disks and drums.

actuate the emergency brake numerous times to get the piston/pads adjusted to the rotor face. it might be a situation the calipers on the rear may not be fed out enough. as far as a possibility of air goes, i've seen numerous rear disc applications that the aftermarket manufacturer rotates the plates to provide access to the caliper bolt. by doing so they rotate the plate so the caliper bleeder screw isn't in the fully upright position... you'd need to remove caliper, get a block of wood (or whatever) the same thickness of rotor and block the pads open... then bleed the brakes.

but you stated the pedal felt firm so i doubt air is an issue.

i've also noticed the quality of brake pads that are supplied in the disc kits leave a lot to be desired as far as pad material... most of the time they're a pretty low grade quality of pad. that will account for some of the stopping distance quality. if they are a cheaper quality set of pads, front & rear, you might like to think about upgrading to a semi-metallic pad...


i hope i helped ;)

I did not see any recommended break in section in the instructions. I drove it around a bit before I gave em the business.:yes: I did the emergency brake set up that was in the instructions and actually had to put a bigger spacer in there to get it to grab, so that all seems fine.

I'll try leaning the caliper because I did not do that when I bled them.

I may just be over analyzing the situation.

One more question though. I used a T-bracket and split the vacuum between the carb and the brake booster. I was told that this might not be a good idea. Is that true? It seems to run fine.

You want the brakes biased front to rear, basically that means you want the front to lock-up first and maybe only have the fronts lock-up. If the rears lock-up any steering action during the skid will put the rear end of the car out of control. Since your e-brake is working and the rear rotors are getting warm it sounds like you are close to being biased where you want. If you don't have an adjustible proportioning valve I doubt you will be able to effect any change...

Are your brakes manual or power assisted? 2 inches of pedal seems like a lot before any braking takes place but could just be a trate of the setup you are running. I too hope you put some miles on the brakes before really slamming on them too much. It could have an effect on how the pedal feels...

added thought for future work... if there's any caliper piston adjustment required do not push the piston into the caliper, it needs to be rotated back in. if it's pushed into the caliper the e brake actuator will be damaged.

shouldn't be an issue Teeing off the vacuum line.

hope i helped :D

They are power assisted.

I used one of those caliper turning tools to turn them in when I did move them. As a side note, its worth it to have a nice one of those kits to move the piston. A crappy one that does not fit perfectly, like the cheap cube tool makes it a lot tougher.