View Full Version : Roll Bar Installation Tips/Advice


rlrr
Mar 3rd, 02, 01:46 PM
I am going to begin installation of an 8 point roll bar in my '69 Camaro next weekend. I have a certified welder to do the hard part, but I am looking for any advice, tips, tricks, etc. that you may have.

What did you use to cut the pipe? Cut the angles? What order?

Can I do this in a weekend?

Thanks
Mike

CamaroNOTcamero
Mar 3rd, 02, 02:42 PM
i'm just guessing, but give yourself at least a couple weekends.
doing stuff for the 1st time always takes forever.
use a tube notch cutter, looks like a drill press but smaller and holds the tube while the press holds a hand drill with a hole saw in it.

RODKNOCKER
Mar 3rd, 02, 03:01 PM
Are you buying this as a kit or having it bent for you? If your buying a kit the first thing I do is lay the main hoop down on a flat surface to make sure it not twisted which can happen from shipping then get the car sitting level the best you can front to back and side to side use a 3ft level along the rocker panel then through center of car this can be done with the wheels on but I like to use jackstands a pieces of wood for shims to get it sitting nice and level.
Use a 4inch angle grinder or die grinder when trimming the ends of the tubes remember measure twice cut once just take off small amounts at a time until you get it right trim a little off at a time until you get a nice fitting joint this is where you can really help out your welder and also make a strong joint as far as cutting notches it can be done with a die grinder or even a angle grinder but I bought a tube notcher from summit cuts perfect notches at even the hardest angle pays for it self in one use.
Check out this website they install a 8pt rollbar into a 2gen camaro but has a lot of good info www.cachassisworks.com (http://www.cachassisworks.com)
hope this helps.
Jeff
go to the how to section at the website above

[This message has been edited by RODKNOCKER (edited 03-03-2002).]

Everett#2390
Mar 4th, 02, 01:47 AM
Alot of good suggestions from above.

Make sure the car is straight, that is, the subframe is straight with the unibody, the car sets level, and body fit is in good shape. This step is most important. Might require taking to a frame shop and have them check it out first.

I used a tubing cutter to make square cuts on the main hoop, leave room between the main hoop and the headliner to add padding later.

If you're adding a bar, do you have subframe connectors already? The difference between a 6-pt & 8-pt is the two bars going from the main hoop to the connectors in the floor.

Another helpful strengthener for the bar is to place a gusset at every right angle.

Be sure to roll down the windows, sparks put nicks in the glass. Use plenty of fire cloth, have a water hose handy, or CO2 bottle.

If you use a solid sidebar rather than a swing out bar, you'll be looking for a smaller diameter steering wheel.

Be careful of the fuel and brakes lines underneath the floorboard.

After finishing installing, painted and everything else, take the car to alignment shop and have a Thrust Angle Alignment done.

Good luck, measure twice, cut once...

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Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph

bruce69camaro
Mar 4th, 02, 07:20 AM
make sure you use 6"x6"x1/8" plates, that get welded between the floor and the roll bar. you will need to form these plates. if it were me, i'd gut the interior of everything that you can. if you have access to a tube notcher, that will help. if not, use a 4" grinder to make your cuts. like everyone else stated, make sure the car is level, and if you plan on racing the car, check your local tracks guidelines. i plan on putting a 10 point cage in my 69, and there is a lot of things that you have to check out before you can just weld in the bar. if the welder is experienced with roll bars, you shouldn't have to much troubles, but if he isn't, i'd plan on it taking longer then a weekend. like stated pryor, measure twice and cut once. tack weld the bars first and check for level, then when all looks good, do the final welding. if you plane on racing, make sure you don't grind any welds. track officals don't like that.
good luck,
bruce

rlrr
Mar 4th, 02, 07:58 AM
Thanks for all of the great advice.

How much does a tube/pipe notcher cost? I looked on Summitt's web site but couldn't find one.

What type of bits should I get for it? Do the bits need to be the same size as the pipe?

Mike

RockyMtnRacer
Mar 4th, 02, 08:12 AM
There's an article in a magazine on the newstand now on this subject. It's Mark Stielow installing a cage in his '69 Mule and it's a first class job with great tips. I'm not sure which magazine but maybe Poplular Hotrodding?

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)

RODKNOCKER
Mar 4th, 02, 08:36 AM
JEG'S has the tube notcher part #292-RTN100 in the catalog pg #151 $146.99 seems I have seen a diff. brand for under 100.00 will see if I can look it up been a while since I bought mine you will have to buy the hole saw the same size as the tubing you have can be found at Home Depot/Lowes besure to get a metal cutting one as they also sell ones for wood notches can be cut with a 4inch angle grinder get some extra tubing and practice working with it, It just takes patience I've done it both ways with equal results the notcher is alot faster though
Oh a 12pt cage takes me 2 weekends first weekend to get it in the car that is if my girlfriend can help (extra set of hands also helps in lining things up) I get it all tack welded then 2 weekend final weld and paint.
run in to any probs feel free to ask. http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif
Jeff

RODKNOCKER
Mar 4th, 02, 09:15 AM
Found the cheaper notcher its sold by NORTHERN TOOL CO. 1-800-533-5545 or www.NorthernTool.com (http://www.NorthernTool.com) item #143355-c166 $74.99 I do not know the quality of this one the more expensive one sold by JEGS is made in USA If you dont think you'll do much tube work I would give the cheaper one a try as you will probably only make a half dozen notches will installing the rollbar.
JEFF