And I am done with this trash. 7 days at 70+ degrees is long enough. Took ~4 days for it to be sandable last time. Today is day 7 and its ruining every piece of 120 that touches it. Glad I pulled back initially and just did a fender rather than a fender and a door. If you want a product that takes weeks to cure :thumbsup: but me I only have a 2 car garage and do not want anything sitting in my way for weeks.

You either mixed it wrong or your activator is expired. I use it all the time and sand it next day no problem.

I didn't find a date on the activator. I bought a new tube though because that was a theory on my last spraying. It says 2% by volume. I used the ml marks on the cup, a calculator, and a syringe. Is more better? Either way I am done with the product.

When i buy it it comes with 4 small tubes of activator.Its mixed 1 small tube of activator per quart of primer. the tubes are marked in quarters, so if you want to mix less than a quart,say a quarter quart,use a quarter tube,half quart,half tube ect. you never know how long the stuff has been on the shelf. MartinSr had wrote a little article on deciphering the date code on the tube.Shelf life is six months i believe. I buy it from Auto body toolmart and have never got a bad batch.

Day 10, sands like butter.

At what the temp did you spray? what was the temp the following days?

strip/sand or wash it off. At the price of base coat and clear coat you don't want to chance it

I do not like the Feather Fill stuff, if you want polyester primer Omni has one and Spies Hecker has one. I use Global 8005 which is a urethane based primer but it is very high solids and can be sprayed with or without reducer depending on the build you want. Pricey but you get what you pay for and for the price of one redo or sucked up looking spot I am in for the money on the front end. If a catalyzed product is taking that long to dry it is probably air drying not crosslinking like it should. I would take a thinner soaked rag and lay it on the primed surface for 5 min. if it wipes or softens the primer you better strip it cause the primer she no good!

its always ~70. Ill try the thinner sounds like a good idea. I sanded on it for a while today without much issue, got the occasional clump on the paper but not like even yesterday.

A little bit of lacquer thinner and crinkles up and slides right off.

Thats what I was afraid of. If you look in technical manuals for refinish products they call this a "thermoplastic film" what you are trying to get is "thermo set". 1K or uncatalyzed products can be reversed with heat, or solvents. Even a catalyzed product will lift with thinner on it if it is not dry, but most will resist wrinkling after several hours @70 degrees. Thermoplastics also have poor adhesion characteristics and gloss hold out basically you could relate this to building a mansion on a swamp. Cheaper products are great and have a place to be used, many put down the high cost of name brands and say that they are supporting race teams ect. and pass the cost onto you-whatever-. Featherfill has been around for decades and I used it when it was the best alternative to lacquer primer then I started using House of Kolor EP1:yes: this is a very good filling and has excellent build thickness. Nowdays I use DP epoxy and Global 8005 and try to make the bodywork perfect before I prime anything. I hope this helps I think you have under or over catalyzed the feather fill or the hardner was bad.

Try the new product form Evercoat. It called slicksand. its an amazing product. Its what I use on all my Resto's. Its similiar to feather fill but with better results and easy sanding when dried overnight.

A few years ago I got hooked on U-POL 20:20 hs primer filler. What I liked about it was that it filled really well, plus you can sand it dry with say 120 then 220 and never have it clog your paper(I always wet sand later). This way if you need to spray more primer for say a low spot you wont have to remask because your paper is all wet and torn. I believe it says its sandable after 6 hours at 70 degrees.

I use the feather fill on fiberglass parts. Builds like crazy! I would never use it on metal, too hard to sand. Ive never had a problem with it kickin off. Ive sanded it a hour after shooting it with no problems.