The guys that installed my front and rear windows used Butyl Tape when they did it. This never dries and stays sticky forever. Is this the standard or is there something else for them to use?

this will help
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=127324

Thanks Larry - I missed that one!

Good info on there!!!!!!

The installation of my windshield went badly. I got a glass company where one of the older workers was an 'expert' in the installation of glass in older cars without the blackened border you see in newer cars. He came out with my new windshield and I got to watch him install it. He had all of the right tools it seemed for the job, but when you place the glass down on the urethane, it squishes everywhere.

I've heard about the dams to keep the urethane from going everywhere but the problem is that does not do any good unless the glass company knows how to use them or has them. It would seem reasonable to say that only 1-2% of the windshields that a glass company would install would be on pre-70 era cars; there are just not that many installers that might know how to do this without making a mess.

I now have to cut my windshield out, so I'm going to try to do it myself using a windshield wire removal tool from www.equalizer.com. I purchased the 3M Windo-Weld tape to do the reinstall, and will attempt this myself. I figure I can't possibly make a bigger mess than the windshield company. I might put a small bead of urethane around the edge where it will be hidden by the molding.

If you want to see pictures of the worst looking new windshield install ever, let me know. In case you can't tell, I'm really PO'd about my install. :mad:

Hope your experiences are better.

-Kevin

Kev,
Definitely post some pics...

Jim

Many people believe butyl tape was used origionally but it is not true. To substantiate this I quote John Z. from CRG:
"The factory used a "dam" and Thiokol pumpable adhesive with different silane primers on the glass and on the body opening flanges, which changed to urethane pumpable adhesive in the 70's. GM never used butyl in production, as it won't pass the MVSS 208 Frontal Impact Windshield Retention requirement, and the Thiokol or Urethane adhesive design makes the windshield and backlite structural parts, improving body torsional stiffness. Some glass shops use butyl for replacement glass because it's quick and cheap, but it's technically illegal. The factory rubber spacer blocks established the windshield height for correct flush fit of the reveal moldings to the glass surface."
For as long as there are cars being restored there will be those who believe butyl tape is "factory correct" But it's not so.

Here are some pictures that I took so you could get the idea of what can go wrong:

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/missioncritical/Camaro/windshield/windshield1.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/missioncritical/Camaro/windshield/windshield2.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/missioncritical/Camaro/windshield/windshield3.jpg

I'm not going to try to argue about which is better, urethane or the tape, but I always try to break at least two laws a day (different ones than I did the day before) and this helps me meet my quota. I always prefer bigger and better and my Camaro is extensively modified, so I have no problem with urethane, but the problem is the installers, etc. My body guy suggested painting the outside, but I don't know if that would look good. The idea of painting the lower 1" from the inside is an interesting idea, but at this point I'm tired of trying things and I just want it done. I suspect that there are a lot of windshields held in my the tape.

-Kevin

Here are some pictures that I took so you could get the idea of what can go wrong:

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/missioncritical/Camaro/windshield/windshield1.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/missioncritical/Camaro/windshield/windshield2.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/missioncritical/Camaro/windshield/windshield3.jpg

I'm not going to try to argue about which is better, urethane or the tape, but I always try to break at least two laws a day (different ones than I did the day before) and this helps me meet my quota. I always prefer bigger and better and my Camaro is extensively modified, so I have no problem with urethane, but the problem is the installers, etc. My body guy suggested painting the outside, but I don't know if that would look good. The idea of painting the lower 1" from the inside is an interesting idea, but at this point I'm tired of trying things and I just want it done. I suspect that there are a lot of windshields held in my the tape.

-Kevin

Yes I see why you are pissed off. I wanted to paint the bottom inside also because of that reason. I am going to use the tape but I am going to put the butyl tape on the outer edge of the glass first then set the glass on the car. Then the bottom trim should hide the tape.

If I have a frontal impact....I could care less if the windshield stays in. I'll stick with the tape.

Yes I see why you are pissed off. I wanted to paint the bottom inside also because of that reason. I am going to use the tape but I am going to put the butyl tape on the outer edge of the glass first then set the glass on the car. Then the bottom trim should hide the tape.

I was wondering if there was a way/technique to use the tape and a dab of urethane. If someone were to put the tape on the glass, then you can determine ahead of time exactly where its going to be and what portion you wanted visible above the lower molding, etc. I don't mind seeing the seal, I just want it reasonably straight. If a small bead of urethane were placed on the inside edge of the pinchweld area, I would think that it would be hidden behind the tape and would fill in any small dips and prevent leaks. I assume the tape would stick to the urethane OK ?

-Kevin

When i installed the windshield in my car, i ran the urethane on the glass instead of the pinchweld. Reason being that i was able to use my finger as a guide around the edge of the glass as i gunned the urethane. As long as you "dry fit" the glass first, use some masking tape to make alignment points. It will look good and the urethane will be under the chrome reveal moulding.
The buytal tape is more forgiving than the urethane,but the the urethane will seal better,imho.

I was wondering if there was a way/technique to use the tape and a dab of urethane. If someone were to put the tape on the glass, then you can determine ahead of time exactly where its going to be and what portion you wanted visible above the lower molding, etc. I don't mind seeing the seal, I just want it reasonably straight. If a small bead of urethane were placed on the inside edge of the pinchweld area, I would think that it would be hidden behind the tape and would fill in any small dips and prevent leaks. I assume the tape would stick to the urethane OK ?

-Kevin

My buddy that does glass does what you are wanting. He just puts a small line of urethane on the butyl then puts the window in. That way he can move it a little if he has too. Just make sure it is not alot of urethane for it to squeeze out.