Again I find myself in mid-project with something not working out...so I come to you, the wise and "already-been-there".

Here's whats going on....

I have the Competition Engineering solid subframe bushings #C3027. These replace the top bushing only and direct you to use the original top bushing (inverted) as the new bottom bushing. (Have I lost you?)

Well, it ain't working for me. The hole on both the old and new bushings are the same size and they just sit on top of one another instead of interlocking.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/ce1.jpg (http://www.camaros.net/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/ce1.jpg%5B/IMG%5D)


http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/ce2.jpg (http://www.camaros.net/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/ce2.jpg%5B/IMG%5D)
http://www.camaros.net/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/ce1.jpg%5B/IMG%5D
http://www.camaros.net/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/ce2.jpg%5B/IMG%5Dhttp://www.camaros.net/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/ce2.jpg%5B/IMG%5DIf you installed these on your car, how did you make this work for you? Did the old and new bushings interlock? Or sit on top of each other as shown above?

I called CE and they have no idea what to do...

I installed those on my old 67 ragtop and I don't remember using any "old" bushings???

I remember they were different than the GW interlocking bushings that I used on my 69 ragtop as the CE's did not interlock??


P.S. Everett must be right...

You use the CE bushing for the top bushing replacement - no bushing on the bottom - then install the OE bolt and OE washer.

There are on 6 bushings in the set but each car requires 12 total (4 for the core support (2 top/2 bottom) and 4 for each side (2 top/2 bottom)...

Here are the directions I was following which matches the Competition Engineering tech line:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/ce.jpg (http://www.camaros.net/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/ce.jpg%5B/IMG%5D)

I'd love it if I just needed to install one upper bushing...but am concerned that the subframe needs to be "sandwiched" between two bushings as was the OEM...

Hey Brent...from what I can see they only want you to reuse the upper bushing in the lower spot on the radiator support. That's if I'm reading the directions correctly. http://www.competitionengineering.com/catalog/images/c3027_inst.pdf

For all the cars I've done, including my two current ones, I use the Energy Suspension polyurethane mounts and they're awesome! Part # is 3.4142G I think.

BTW, sorry I missed you the other night..I hope it's working!:thumbsup:

You two are right...I expected that there would be both a top and bottom but there is not. I misread the instructions...

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/cd2.png (http://www.camaros.net/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a94/mcconnells/Cars/cd2.png%5B/IMG%5D)

Dave,

The Cryo is a lifesaver--we just refilled it seconds ago--it makes such a big difference. The one they provided is pretty lame in comparison...

I'll check out the Energy Suspension--I don't know how I feel about having only a top bushing when I am running subframe connectors....

Brent



Hey Brent...from what I can see they only want you to reuse the upper bushing in the lower spot on the radiator support. That's if I'm reading the directions correctly. http://www.competitionengineering.com/catalog/images/c3027_inst.pdf

For all the cars I've done, including my two current ones, I use the Energy Suspension polyurethane mounts and they're awesome! Part # is 3.4142G I think.

BTW, sorry I missed you the other night..I hope it's working!:thumbsup:

Dave,

The Cryo is a lifesaver--we just refilled it seconds ago--it makes such a big difference. The one they provided is pretty lame in comparison...

I'll check out the Energy Suspension--I don't know how I feel about having only a top bushing when I am running subframe connectors....

Brent

Good deal! Keep it as long as you need it...hopefully I'm done with shoulder surgeries for awhile! :D

I've got CE bolt in connectors on the Z-10 and the ride is firm but nice with the Energy Suspension bushings.

I see by Rev C, dated Mar 2001, CE changed their instruction sheet to include using the upper body bushings for the lower bushing. Apparently, the public was having some concern over too much vibration during their driving.

I bought their bushing kit in the mid-90's and used CE bushing for the top half as the bushing was indexed in the subframe hole below the floor and no bushing below the subframe. I used the OE bolt & washer to clamp it all together. I did leave the OE bushing in the radiator support for vibration purposes and have not had any trouble with the radiator.

Experimentation is the key here, I believe.

You use the CE bushing for the top bushing replacement - no bushing on the bottom - then install the OE bolt and OE washer.

With all due respect Everett I can't see it being installed with no bushing on the bottom. I think you just reuse the original bottom bushing, washer and bolt. The CE kit only appears to replace the bushing between the subframe and body/radiator support.

Dave, your point of view accepted, I may have read the instructions wrong.

Dave,

When you installed the CE subframe connectors, did you have any issues with the rear of the connectors bolting to the front spring pocket?

My connectors do not draw down flush to the spring pocket--the outside edges of the spring pocket keep it about .25" from being flush... I could grind down the edges I guess but would rather not...

Dave,

When you installed the CE subframe connectors, did you have any issues with the rear of the connectors bolting to the front spring pocket?

My connectors do not draw down flush to the spring pocket--the outside edges of the spring pocket keep it about .25" from being flush... I could grind down the edges I guess but would rather not...


I've installed them on at least 4 cars in the last 15 years and I've never had a problem but I do see this in the instructions so it is a known "issue".

5. Sandwich the rear-mounting bracket of the Subframe Connector between the rear frame rail and the
spring perch. Due to variations in the spring perch stamping, it may be necessary to notch the mounting
bracket on the Subframe Connector.

I just bought those same bushings and did not like having the rubber parts on the bottom, seemed cheesy, and since I will be building weld through the floor connectors. I purchased some 6061 T6 round bar that is 2 1/2" dia. then took it to the lathe and cut it so it would lock into the frame hole (basically just built a duplicate CE bushing for the bottom). I used this to mock up then tore everything apart for other mods.

Yep--that would be it...I better get to the notching...

Taking into account that my car hasn't moved under it's own power in decades it seems, so I have no practical experience with them, I installed both the CE solids and frame connectors on my '69.

I saw no reason to or directions guiding me to use the old bushings underneath. I figured that since the body-to-frame connection is going to be a solid block of aluminum anyway, having the connecting bolt going through a little rubber wasn't going to be noticeable at all. I can't see the point. And seeing that the lip that fits into the frame is so shallow, I didn't want to take the chance that it might slip out over time. I used larger diameter bolts and washers at the four mounts though. Much larger than factory.

The only issues I had with the frame connectors was that the mounting holes didn't line up very well at all. That was easily remedied with a rat-tail file and a drill, depending on how far off the hole was.
I saw that they weren't going to lay flat against the body before I bolted them in so I did what ever I needed to smooth the area out first. I think I did a little hammering and grinding. They never will lay perfectly flat anyway.