: Fluid on top of intake
jkaufman Mar 12th, 09, 10:14 PM I have a 1967 327/210.
What could be causing this pooling on top of the intake?
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/327001.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/327002.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/327003.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/327007.jpg
deerhunter Mar 12th, 09, 10:23 PM Valve cover gaskets.
jkaufman Mar 12th, 09, 10:36 PM That's what I was afraid of. When I first got the car, I had my mechanic do some suspension work and while he was at it, I just had him replace the valve cover gaskets since they were leaking. No wonder I have been searching for a new mechanic... He was even supposed to have used the non-paper type... I forget what they are called...*sigh*
Ken Packard Mar 13th, 09, 04:36 AM I'd take a can of brake cleaner and clean it up real good and dry then run her a bit and check real good as to where the fluid is leaking from. You're probably right about the gaskets but this would tell you for sure and with only a 10 min. investment of time. Good Luck!
Ken
john68 Mar 13th, 09, 05:07 AM The oil is wicking up thru the intake bolts, remove them clean with brake clean, use
teflon thread sealer on the bolt threads and retighten.
speedfreek Mar 13th, 09, 05:13 AM The oil is wicking up thru the intake bolts, remove them clean with brake clean, use
teflon thread sealer on the bolt threads and retighten.
This is where it is coming from. Do exactly what John said just to the two middle bolts. :yes:
1st 67 SS/RS Mar 13th, 09, 05:30 AM I have the same problem. I thought the carb might be leaking. I replaced the gasket and cleaned around the carb but it still puddled up there. It is like a mix of fuel and oil. thanks for the pics and the fix.
Badbird Mar 13th, 09, 01:12 PM I don't know man but it appears that the flanges on the valve covers are warped or bent and new gaskets will not seal it up!.....Probably time for a nice new pair of valve covers!:yes:
Everett#2390 Mar 13th, 09, 01:23 PM The oil is wicking up thru the intake bolts, remove them clean with brake clean, use
teflon thread sealer on the bolt threads and retighten.X4 or whatever the count is up to.
jkaufman Mar 13th, 09, 02:12 PM Thanks! I will try removing and re-installing those four bolts as instructed. Hopefully that fixes it. Being completely original, I'd rather not have to replace the valve covers. Does it have to be teflon thread sealer or can it be plumber's putty? If it should be teflon thread sealer, I will just pick some up on the way home from work.
john68 Mar 13th, 09, 02:29 PM I would rather see teflon thread sealer, If you have teflon tape several wraps can work.
If you are talking about plummers putty for sealing a foset to the sink NO, If plumers
putty for pipe seals it will probally work,
john
DjD Mar 13th, 09, 02:43 PM I would use this stuff...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/Gaskets/PTX-9403.jpg
paulm Mar 13th, 09, 02:47 PM Thanks! I will try removing and re-installing those four bolts as instructed. Hopefully that fixes it. Being completely original, I'd rather not have to replace the valve covers.
You may be able to just replace the valve cover gaskets...that's easy enough. You could even get a set of the "doubled up" cork gaskets...they could help seal if they valve covers are a little tweaked.
Melrose RS Mar 13th, 09, 03:00 PM I've got this problem too and so does my neighbor with a '68. I say intake bolts wicking.
BigBlock1969RS Mar 13th, 09, 03:11 PM I would use this stuff...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/Gaskets/PTX-9403.jpg
That is good stuff, definitely recommended.
wiskeesour Mar 13th, 09, 04:24 PM I bought the valve cover bolts from AZone that had the extra long washer, you know the one that runs parallel with the valve cover?
And then I used studs. Never had a problem after I installed the rubber re-usable FelPro gaskets...
CGFlyer61 Mar 13th, 09, 04:31 PM I've had this problem with just about every small block Chevy motor I've ever had. Now I know how to correct it.
This is the best THREAD ever!
john68 Mar 13th, 09, 06:10 PM I bought the valve cover bolts from AZone that had the extra long washer, you know the one that runs parallel with the valve cover?
And then I used studs. Never had a problem after I installed the rubber re-usable FelPro gaskets...
Those long spreader bars were designed for Corvairs, and yes they work
great.
jkaufman Mar 14th, 09, 02:57 AM I didn't get a chance to fix the bolts on the intake. I will probably do it tomorrow after some sleep. :)
However, I also wanted to ask about oil spilling from the filler (even with the breather in place). It has dripped a bit onto the upper radiator hose and the front of the intake. The bit on the front of the intake causes a little smoke once the engine is up to temperature. What could be causing this? The engine is not overfilled.
deerhunter Mar 14th, 09, 09:00 AM I looked at your pictures again and in one it sure looks like the oil is running from the valve covers. If they were replaced then it could very well be coming from your intake bolts though. I would stean off that engine good with a degreaser and watch it. Both fixes are very easy and something you can do. As far as the oil mist coming from the breather, it is most likely blowby. How many miles are on this engine?
jkaufman Mar 14th, 09, 04:52 PM It has 145K miles on it. Do I need to replace the PCV valve?
Here is another picture:
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/327010.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/327011.jpg
DjD Mar 14th, 09, 05:07 PM Jeff - let's take a completely different approach here. 1st the mechanic that changed your valve cover gaskets isn't responsible for the oil on your engine. Next do as others have suggested and completely clean your engine and engine bay, it won't look new but will be clean. Once clean you will have a good place to start watching for oil to apear. From the look of your pictures the engine doesn't look half bad for having 145k miles on it.
If you get pooling of oil by the intake bolts within a few hundred miles then it's time to re-seal them. Take them out and put them back one at a time and torque properly when you do. Clean your breather cap out with solvent and let it dry out completely before using it again. It never hurts to replace a PCV valve... As for your valve covers, they look to be in fairly good condition for their age...
jkaufman Mar 14th, 09, 05:46 PM Dennis,
Thanks for the response. I only meant that he would be responsible if the leak was coming from the valve cover gaskets. He only replaced them a few weeks ago and I only had him do it because he was doing some suspension work on the car. If it's the intake manifold bolts, I, of course, don't expect that to be his fault. He also sprayed a fresh coat of orange on the covers. The engine bay and underside of the car has been fully cleaned - about a week ago (~150 miles ago or so). So, that oil is freshly deposited there. I am rebuilding my carburetor today and while everything is soaking, I will remove all the bolts, seal them with plumber's tape and re-torque them in the appropriate order.
I got a new PCV valve and am about to put it in. Do you think this could be causing the blow-by? In any case, I will report what I find. :)
Thanks again!
Jeff - let's take a completely different approach here. 1st the mechanic that changed your valve cover gaskets isn't responsible for the oil on your engine. Next do as others have suggested and completely clean your engine and engine bay, it won't look new but will be clean. Once clean you will have a good place to start watching for oil to apear. From the look of your pictures the engine doesn't look half bad for having 145k miles on it.
If you get pooling of oil by the intake bolts within a few hundred miles then it's time to re-seal them. Take them out and put them back one at a time and torque properly when you do. Clean your breather cap out with solvent and let it dry out completely before using it again. It never hurts to replace a PCV valve... As for your valve covers, they look to be in fairly good condition for their age...
Fred Ficarra Mar 14th, 09, 06:54 PM Jeff, I'm hoping that you'll do the warm and fuzzy thing and just rebuilt it with clean, rust free stuff. Of course, online, there's no way to know your situation. But rust is hard to look at.
jkaufman Mar 14th, 09, 07:04 PM Jeff, I'm hoping that you'll do the warm and fuzzy thing and just rebuilt it with clean, rust free stuff. Of course, online, there's no way to know your situation. But rust is hard to look at.
Do you mean the bolts, the carburetor, or the intake itself? LOL... I have brought so many other topics into this thread that I've confused myself. :)
jkaufman Mar 14th, 09, 07:26 PM Is this good enough as far as the teflon tape goes? I have never applied this to bolts before.
Thanks!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/TeflonTape.jpg
Melrose RS Mar 14th, 09, 07:29 PM Make sure you go in the direction that won't unwind the tape as you screw the bolts in.
jkaufman Mar 14th, 09, 07:49 PM Thanks. What do I torque it to? Just tight or is there a specific setting? Sorry I do not have my book with me right now.
wiskeesour Mar 14th, 09, 07:51 PM 45lbs/ft
center out...
deerhunter Mar 14th, 09, 09:25 PM I hate that tape! I would much rather see you use Teflon paste or Permatex. My opinion only.
speedfreek Mar 15th, 09, 06:42 AM I hate that tape! I would much rather see you use Teflon paste or Permatex. My opinion only.
x2
Badbird Mar 15th, 09, 11:31 AM ME 3!!:mad:.....That teflon tape is more suited for gas line fittings or oil pressure line fittings or vacuum line fittings!:yes:.....What you should use is a good silicon sealant, smeared on the bolt threads!:yes:
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