I have found a guy with a couple virgin sets of 3890462 heads. So, they have never been re-worked, ported, machined, etc. They are both 1.94/1.50 heads. They both came off a block to which they were originally installed back in late 1966. Is there anything that you guys see that would give cause to be cautious about purchasing or just turn away all together?

Here is the first set with their matching spreadbore intake:

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Set3.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Set2.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Set1.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3890462I1361.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3890462I1362.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3890462H3161.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3890462H3162.jpg

Here are the close-ups on the intake:

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3905393H3161.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3905393H3162.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3905393H3163.jpg

And here is the second set of heads (with matching date casts):

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Pair3890462H261.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Pair3890462H262.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Pair3890462H263.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3890462H262.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3890462H261.jpg

Questions, comments? I plan on having a shop disassemble, clean, hot-tank, and re-assemble for $68 per head (unless I find another shop that will do it for less and is reputable).

The guy is asking for $300 for the first set (whether I take the intake or not - intake is priced at $100) and $350 for the matching-date set. Are these fair prices? Again, all the parts are virgin and he says there is no damage, cracks, warping, etc.

Thanks!

By the way, he will include the rockers on whichever set I choose, even though they are not shown on the first set.

If you like feulie heads or if your looking for them to date correct your motor then they are worth it. I was fortunate when I got mine that the guy selling them didnt know what they were and I picked up a dated pair for $120.

Yeah, I have a 327/210 and am looking to upgrade it to the 327/275 version (or as close as possible) while keeping it period correct. Do they look pretty standard, though? Nothing that screams "run away" when you see the shots? $120 is a great deal! Nice find!

There are no accessory bolt holes in the ends of those heads. The double hump (camel backs or fuelie heads) were great in the 60's and 70's, but there are much better heads on the market now. If your car is a '67 or '68 then you do not need accessory holes, unless your car is not original. Those heads only have 160 cc intake ports. This is fine on a 327 or a 350. On a 383 or 400, you will want bigger !

I have a set of those that had some serious machine work done to them. I have a vid clip of my engine running in my photobucket account with those heads and I like um.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p23/camjoe63/parts001.jpg

I have a set of those that had some serious machine work done to them.

No offense Joe... that is what you have to do to them, to get them to work. A set of RHS Pro-Action heads will out perform those, at less money !

I understand there are better heads out there, but I am going for a period correct car.

So, Joe, what kind of "serious" machine work was needed and why? Was the work performed to make them perform better or was there damage or warping that needed to be fixed? Did you harden the valve seats or open them up and de-shroud it?

That's a 66- 67 Turbo Flow Head with the Semi Open 64 cc Chamber or known as the Fuelie Head which were slightly different with a Closed Chamber 60cc chamber. Like the 68 Turbo Flow 291 casting it has no Accessory Hole but it's a simple matter of drilling a tapping as the casting is strong enough to support the alternator bolt.

These were Grumpy Jenkin's favoured heads and YES with a lot of work and "know how" can be made to Perform with the BEST; however the cost of machining today along with the lost art does not make it worth the price as you can bolt on Vortec or spend more and buy AFR's.

If you want originality or Ruled to compete with Stock Engines; as per Grumpy, then there is simply no other better LT1 SBC head.

Simply installing 2.02's /1.6 Valves and machine for guide plates can net you the stock 360Hp and 6500 rpm using a Solid FT 30/30 cam providing you have 10.5 to 11:1 Compression.

Grumpy could get them heads to flow well over 8000rpm.

By the way that Intake is favoured by Circle Track Racers who have to compete with Stock Intake Manifolds and Carbs.

Well, I have a 1967 327/210 with an all-original drivetrain. Right, it is the 64cc chamber with 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust. Being a 67, my car has no need for any accessory holes. Again, I don't necessarily want it to perform with the best. I just want them to perform as they were originally designed. Down the road, if I REALLY wanted to, I could always perform the work on them, but I doubt that will be in the future. I'm not a speed freak (believe it or not... and I'm 26 :) ). I really am just looking to do a period correct car and would like some advice from those with experience as to whether or not there is something obvious (that I'm not noticing) in these pictures that should make me turn and run...

You got it right then ;o)

Install everything and you will have a 275hp/327.

And install them w/ .020" thick steel shim headgaskets too.

It won't be correct for a stock 300hp/327 b/c they had the AFB carb on them..

pdq67

"So, Joe, what kind of "serious" machine work was needed and why?"

I had mine milled/decked for straightness, then had all new guides replaced, Hardened seats. Then I had the (exhaust valves only) increased, A circle track trick to make them push the exhaust gases out faster. I now have 1.94 intakes and 1.6 exhausts. No reason to go big on the intake because of the size of the runners. Then I had screw in studs, guides then I polished the intake runners. I figured I spent over $600 for the machine work alone. I had my machine shop match my heads to what I was putting on the bottom end of the block.

Yes as other have and had commented on the cost of doing machine work on these heads vs. buying new ones that flow better I went with a "period correct" head for my 67 ss350.

I say to each his own is what I go by and FWIW. I don't care for
Aluminum heads on street applications. Not with today’s fuel and also the climate you live in.

Jeff,

I enjoy mine. They may not be AFR's or Brodix or one of the other top sets, but they move the little mouse well with a good cam. I had mine fitted for the 2.02 1.60 valves. Machine shop told me that there wasn't a need to go to the hardend seats as long as I wasn't planning to use the motor to tow with. Cars been together now for nearly 6 years minus a cam swap do to a locked up lifter. Gets decent milage and still spins the tires when I feel like it.

The only thing I would do is have a valve job done, being they are pre-73 heads, have hardened seats put in and replace the springs with a new set of "z-28" springs...still period correct, but updated for todays fuels and not with 40 year old springs

Thanks for the input!

Is $300 a fair deal? He's not coming down at all on the price. $100 for the spread-bore intake.

$300 isn't bad especially if your looking at date correct heads. I had gotten lucky with mine as well that they were within a 3 week date of my block.

You may be able to locate another set for cheaper, but whats the likelyhood that they will be date correct and as easily found as this set?

It can either be the coulda shoulda woulda with regrets, or get em and usem and don't look back. I wanted fuelies, I got fuelies. The date was just a nice bonus.

As for the spreadbore. If you like a spredbore carb then that isn't bad either as it's period correct.

Don't put in hardened seats it's not necessary. As stated, they are only required if the engine is operating under continuous load as in a Tow Truck or for Marine use. If the guides are good, just have the valves refaced and the seats touched up at a machine shop and install new springs and seals. Them 1.94/1.5"are still good for 6000+rpm if you have to push the engine ;o)

If you have to replace Guides, Valves and Seats by all means use the existing material in the combustion chamber and install 2.02's/1.6's. For that matter, I prefer starting with the 1.94/1.5 valved heads over the larger valve heads as the seats on the larger valve heads are usually pounded enough that you can not install the valve at the correct height. The higher you can place a valve in a combustion chamber the faster the air will flow at low lift.

I 2nd Ron and I want to add that I would run a small bottle of good old MMO in the oil at change and then put a 2nd small bottle, (OR split a BIG BOTTLE), in the gas tank at the next fill-up and not worry about seat erosion unless you are going to pull a boat!

And I have and do!!

MMO is a very good old-fashioned "Top-Oil" by me just like the back of the bottle says it is!

pdq67

I've used World Products heads before and had good luck... but I have a set of 300 heads now- I like the priod correct stuff- Best of luck!!

And here is the second set of heads (with matching date casts):

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Pair3890462H261.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Pair3890462H262.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Pair3890462H263.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3890462H262.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/3890462H261.jpg

Questions, comments? I plan on having a shop disassemble, clean, hot-tank, and re-assemble for $68 per head (unless I find another shop that will do it for less and is reputable).

The guy is asking for $300 for the first set (whether I take the intake or not - intake is priced at $100) and $350 for the matching-date set. Are these fair prices? Again, all the parts are virgin and he says there is no damage, cracks, warping, etc.

Thanks!Dont pay more than a 100.00 a set, there not that virgin either.

Dont pay more than a 100.00 a set, there not that virgin either.

Care to expand on that? What do you see that we aren't seeing? And for $100 for the set? I can't find a single set of double-hump heads on ebay or any craigslist for less than $200... that's double what you're saying...

Hey Jeff. sorry I didn't call this weekend, got busy w/ some honey-do's around the house, we'll catch up one of these days....

For what I see in the pics $300 is overpriced. He'll throw in the rockers on the deal? So what, I think he's just trying to sweeten the deal to make the sale, IMO. Go to a junkyard and get a set of rockers for a couple bucks, or shoot, I'll give you a set, I've got boxes of rockers in my garage. Same thing on the intake. I wouldn't pay $100 for a stock cast iron Q-jet intake, but if it's exactly what you want, then I guess it's okay. The junkyards down in south bay have some SBC stuff (not a lot) if you're looking for a fun way to spend a saturday afternoon. I know you could find a spreadbore intake that looks close to stock for MUCH less than $100.

FWIW, I had a set of double humps rebuilt at a machine shop locally.... paid something like $640 to have them hot-tanked, pressure tested, disassembled, sandblasted, resurfaced, all new hardened seats, all new valves, knurl the valve guides, new valve seals.... Is that a lot of money for heads that are outperformed by modern stuff? Well, yes, but that's okay by me. They're period correct (not that I care THAT much about it), and I'm happy to support a local business in a time when the economy sucks. The heads mentioned above came off a 327 I picked up for $250, which came with everything except a carb and distributor. There are good deals out there, you just have to be patient.

And if you want to increase the fun factor, two words..... four speed. Come drive my car and I'll bet a four speed will be added to the list. :yes: