hi to all the camaro lovers. Questionn? I have a 1968 camaro SS with a 383 stroker with 6" eagle rods,callies crank, heads are alum. Brodix -pro 2.08 intake 1.60 exhaust 185 intake runners not ported. intake is a wiend team G with 2"raised platem. with a Barry Grant 750 carb. 1.75 super comp headers 3" flows. C/r is around 10.5 Cam is a reed solid roller Duration @ .05 is 261 IN 267 Ex valve lift is In .602 EX .625 1.5 roller rockers. 106 lobe centers trans is a glide with 3500 stall gears are 4.56 w/28" tall tire. weight with driver is 3600. best 60 ft. is 1.76 1/4 12.26 @110. In your opinion what could I do to shave time I really would like to see mid to high 11's. driveabilty isn't my biggest concern sorry for the long post, But thanks a million

Loss some weight and maybe a little losser on the converter.

Charlie Boyd
www.boydracing.com (http://www.boydracing.com)

I'll leave the motor tweeking to the more experienced ones on here but I think the first thing you could do is lose some weight. 1 tenth for every 100lbs. Rip 400lbs off the car and hello 11's.

You'd likely run a bunch faster with a wider LSA than the 106, more like 108, especially with low compression. The converter seems too tight as well, with that cam, etc. I would look at something more in the 4500-5000 area, especially running a glide in a heavier car. You can see if you have a 1.76 or a 1.82 first gear, and put the 1.82 in if it's not already in there. They came behind smaller V8 motors as well as 6 cyls, the 1.76's were behind bigger SB motors and BB's. The lower first gear will help. If you have a 1.76, I would even swap you if you need one, most higher-powered drag cars use them, but street cars will run quicker with the 1.82. All you need to change is the gearset, and the sun gear on the back of the drum, and the 1.82 input. It is an easy swap to do. The cam looks to be something in the area of a smaller oval track race camshaft, for a higher compression motor. You can try loosening the lash up a bit too, that will help. If you have a 2" plenum spacer, I am not sure in your description, I would take it out as well. That will help velocity by decreasing the plenum volume. In short, you need more stall speed for the combo, and more low gear will help too. There is no reason the car should not go into the 11's with ease!

Turbo 350 or Turbo 200 35-4500 conv. if you street drive.
Pocket port the heads or trade'm for some cast-iron Darts! 185cc isn't much over stock castings(170range). That 383 could stand 195-200 runners. Should put you way in the lower 11's. I'd rather see a Vic jr. also the plenum is set up for more air speed. But don't buy anything just swap or sell and buy; keeps cost down.

graemlins/waving.gif

Take those bags of concrete out of the trunk - 3600lbs with a SB?
You should be around 3300-3400 for a SB car.
Next the cam is too big (you wont here me say that too often), and on too tight
a lobe sep. - bleeding down too much cylinder press. (Go around 240dur. on a 110+/-LS.)
Next port the heads (open them up too, they're too small), this will make
a big difference in power, around 30-40hp if you get them to flow around 300cfm.
A super victor would be better.
Swap from the glide to a 350TH and this will help keep it in the power band.
With all this you should be in the mid 11s @ around 115-116mph.

What do you shift at? with that big a cam it should pull around 7000rpm.

Gasket match the intake,and heads<both I & E>May even want to do a full port and polish to get those heads flowing for a .600+lift cam.

1) IMO Heads are too small. I'd pull them and have them flowed - 2.08 intakes with a 185cc runner just doesn't sound quite right.

2) IMO Compression is too low for the cam. Maybe you could have the heads milled for another point of compression if you pull them and have them ported. You could also pick a head with bigger runners and smaller chambers if you want to replace the heads altogether.

3) IMO you could use more stall. With a 'glide and a big cam you need converter in the 4500 RPM range.

Power is down based on trap speeds and what you should be running. I'd expect you could get your car into the low 11's with the right changes / tweeks. Less cam, more head flow, more compression, and more stall is the cure IMO. Best of luck graemlins/beers.gif

See my combo in the sig for a reference point. I'm sure there are faster cars, but you can see I'm running more compression with a lot less cam and am hoping for 11.7's - 11.8's this year.

With that much weight and your cam go to atleast a 5000 convertor. If you don't want that much you need to change the cam and try to build more torque.

I gree with Oger. If all you want to do is get into the 11's then all that you need is a good 5000 rpm stall.

I hope your spinning that motor to 7500 to get the most out of that cam and to keep motor RPMs up after shifting.

Thanks for all the info. do you think the cam would work better with around 11.00 c/r port the heads,4500 to 5000 stall think 11.50 is possible,another question can someone describe the benefits of Lobe centers thanks you guys are tons of help. Dan

The LSA is what determines the overlap period for the cam. You can have two cams, one on a 102 LSA and one on a 108 LSA, with the same lobe profiles. The 108 will have higher cylinder pressure at lower rpms, since there is less overlap. In a low-compression, motor, a wider LSA will build more cylinder pressure earlier. But, too much of a LSA can hinder things as well at times. A tighter LSA generally will have a narrower power band, but again, it all depends on the entire combination. No one LSA is right for a cubic inch or compression ratio all the time. It is a matter of getting the whole combination to work together as a matched setup.

You've got quite a mismatch there. Here's some suggestions that will help.

The cam is WAY too big. Get something in the 250 @ .050 range.

Ditch the 'Glide and install a TH-350/400. In a heavy application like yours you'll never 60 foot worth a darn unless you're considering a 6000 stall.

Get a quality converter that flashes 4500 + along with the TH. The 8" ATI Treemaster is an excellent converter.

My own combo is quite a bit milder than yours and has gone 7.15 @ 96 with 1.54 60'. Check out my website for complete details on the combo.

http://www.ponyexpress.net/~mgalbr

Orange Camaro

What did you weigh your car on? Like 67502 says that is more than a big block car weighs. My sons all steel body aluminum head 68 is only about 3350 with him 160lbs driver. How long have you had your car running? It takes time to tune your combination but the heads seem a bit small for your combination. It took a year of tuning to get mine to run close to what I first had hoped.

Good Luck graemlins/thumbsup.gif

FWIW My 68 weighs 3120 with a full tank of gas. Small block, aluminum heads & intake, all steel body.