Looking at some of the bolt on subframe connectors I wonder how much they really do? Just bolting a peice of tubing between the front and rear can't really help with twisting all that much? Without some sort of laterial bracing to the body do they really work?

They make a big difference. Between jacking up my car w/o sub-frame connectors and with them, I can tell a big difference how the body flexes from front to rear and side to side. Certainly not as much as say a cage but still pretty significant.

Just bolting a peice of tubing between the front and rear can't really help with twisting all that much? Without some sort of laterial bracing to the body do they really work?

Oh yeah? You will be shocked! You will not notice it as much on a hardtop, but the benefit is there for sure. Wanna REALLY see the difference, bolt a set on a convertible! That will show you just how much a bolted on set of connectors can do. It is simply amazing!

We sell and install a lot of bolt on frame connectors. Many here have bought from us and will vouche for the connectors advantages. We sell / install Hotchkis. Hotchkis is the way to go for bolt on under the car connectors. One of the best under $300 you will ever spend on the car.

They absolutely work.

As well as a welded in unit? Probably not. But if you don't want to cut up your car they are an excellent alternative.

They absolutely work.

As well as a welded in unit? Probably not. But if you don't want to cut up your car they are an excellent alternative.

I am installing a hybird version from Global West. You don't need to cut the floors and the "hug" the bottom of the floor pan very closely. The weld to the rear frame, but bolt to the front subframe so that you can still remove the subframe:

http://www.69taposer.citymax.com/i//11-10-07_010.jpg
http://www.69taposer.citymax.com/i//11-10-07_009.jpg

Phil

I have a set that has been sitting but will be installing them this summer. I'll let you know. I'm glad to hear very POSiTIVE oppinions on the matter.

I am installing a hybird version from Global West. You don't need to cut the floors and the "hug" the bottom of the floor pan very closely. The weld to the rear frame, but bolt to the front subframe so that you can still remove the subframe:

Phil

Phil, I am getting ready to bolt/weld in the exact same set of GW ones you got. Can you please post some pics of the bolted area and the welded area? Thanks in advance...

It's recommended to upgrade your body mounts when you do subframe connectors. I've got the Jeg's bolt-ons and Prothane body mounts, uninstalled of course. The parts pile just keeps on growing....

A definite plus in adding connectors and , as said, solid body mounts.

It's recommended to upgrade your body mounts when you do subframe connectors. I've got the Jeg's bolt-ons and Prothane body mounts, uninstalled of course. The parts pile just keeps on growing....

I replaced mine with GW's solid interlock body bushings (stock height). Part number #809 (non convertible)

Our new 1st gen Camaro subframe connectors (http://www.hotchkis.net/6769_camarofirebird_sub_frame_connectors_coupe.htm l) were designed in a CAD program to tuck up as close to the floor pan as possible while providing more strength and rigidity than anything else on the market. They are fabricated from 1.5" x 2.5" .120 wall rectangular steel, are fully MIG welded and include urethane front body mounts. Standing back and looking at a car with the connectors installed, you can barely tell they're even there. Here are some shots taken on the rack to illustrate, including a shot of a convertible (http://www.hotchkis.net/6769_camarofirebird_convertible_sub_frame_connecto rs.html) with our optional ChassisMax (http://www.hotchkis.net/6769_camarofirebird_convertible_chassis_max_kit.ht ml) brace.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/inkahntrol/untitled1.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/inkahntrol/untitled2.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/inkahntrol/4007-1.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/inkahntrol/100_3544-1.jpg

This car has the connectors and ChassisMax installed:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/inkahntrol/camaro2.jpg

Our new 1st gen Camaro subframe connectors (http://www.hotchkis.net/6769_camarofirebird_sub_frame_connectors_coupe.htm l) were designed in a CAD program to tuck up as close to the floor pan as possible while providing more strength and rigidity than anything else on the market. They are fabricated from 1.5" x 2.5" .120 wall rectangular steel, are fully MIG welded and include urethane front body mounts. Standing back and looking at a car with the connectors installed, you can barely tell they're even there. Here are some shots taken on the rack to illustrate, including a shot of a convertible (http://www.hotchkis.net/6769_camarofirebird_convertible_sub_frame_connecto rs.html) with our optional ChassisMax (http://www.hotchkis.net/6769_camarofirebird_convertible_chassis_max_kit.ht ml) brace.



Bold statement.

Can you quantify that versus a welded in connector from DSE?

I think hotchkis should have wrote...more strength and rigidity than any other "bolt-on" connector on the market.
I can not see how they would be stronger and more ridgid than a fully welded in set of DSE's.

IMO and I've had bolt and weld in, the bolt on was a waste of time - I really didnt notice a difference(not blasting Hotchkis here,as it was another brand)-I always thought how connected can they be when the front mount slips between the bushing and the subframe? - that joint is still moveable. I was astounded on the weld in! made that 69 bird ride like no other first gen I've owned!! If it were me i would go straight to the weld in - like my 69 Trans am clone im building- I used Detroit Speeds on it -originality is not a concern on it. now my 69 Z 302 car has bolt ins( I think C/E) and I'm probably going to remove them since I was less than impressed with the others. just my .02c

I have the bolted on connectors. They stiffen the chassis and look good. You cant tell they are bolt-on unless you get under the car and look. Also, I prefer them because they are removable should I want to go back to stock. For a street driven car, they are perfect. I recall that they were less then $150. IMO, I see no need to spend more then that for bolt-on's in a street car.

I still need to get my Hotchkis frame connectors welded in... They look nice and clear everything as i test fit them.

Most sets of bolt-in's I've seen are optional weld-in. Mine are. Then again, I guess anything that can be bolted into metal is optional weld-in.:D

I usually just let the rust take over and seize everything together. Worked great for most of my original hardware.

What does the ChassisMax Brace do?

What does the ChassisMax Brace do?

It's a replacement piece for the factory convertible cross brace. It allows more room for exhaust pipes as opposed to shiming the factory brace and is structurally stronger.

I have the DSE weld in style, they are hands down the strongest and tightest fitting. My car is very low so ground clearance is a big issue for me. They look like it came from the factory that way they fit so good but do take some real time to put in.

I have the hotchkiss sfc's, welded into my vert, including welding to the floor bracing as well as the front and back. They work.

Looks great Phil. I'm installing these as well. Definitely worth getting the matching solid body mounts for the front of the frame rail and rad support. - Ron

http://www.jegs.com/i/Global+West/459/809/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/400/459/459-809.jpg

I am installing a hybird version from Global West. You don't need to cut the floors and the "hug" the bottom of the floor pan very closely. The weld to the rear frame, but bolt to the front subframe so that you can still remove the subframe:

http://www.69taposer.citymax.com/i//11-10-07_010.jpg
http://www.69taposer.citymax.com/i//11-10-07_009.jpg

Phil

Just had them welded/installed the Hotchkis a few weeks ago, with Caltracks bars.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Hotchkis018.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Hotchkis009.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Hotchkis008.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Hotchkis003.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Frameconnectors002.jpg

Looks great Skip!

Our connectors are designed so that you can bolt in one end, but our instructions recommend that you fully weld both ends.

We'll be rolling out some really cool new braces to compliment the Chassis Max for the 1st gen shortly, I'll post a preview here as soon as we get some pics.

looks awesome skip!!!!!!!!

I know its not for everyone but i had a chassis shop pull my interior and weld them in from the top & bottom on my 69 conv, you can hardly see them but i can now jack the car from the front and the doors open/close fine. dp

CarlC has a good how to (similar to DSE) on sub connectors. That's what I'm gonna run with.

I have the DSE weld-in connectors, DSE 1/2" lowering solid body bushings, Caltracs and polygraphite bushings in my vert. This car handles like a coupe.The difference is just astounding! I understand it if you may want to someday remove the bolt-ins to to go back to stock, but I plan on keeping mine and don't regret the weld-ins at all!!