Hey guys, I'm working on a 67 firebird but I think a camaro is the same in the wireing im trying to figure out. I dont have break lights, park lights on the rear or dash lights. I have power at the break light switch until I press the pedal then there is no power on either side of the switch. The power supply goes away. Also when I turn the park lights on the power goes away but when you turn the switch back off the power is there again. The front park lights burn when the switch is on just the rear are acting up and they worked fine a few days ago. Im wondering if its a bad connection or bad light switch which both I've checked and they dont seem to have anything wrong. Also I cant get any power on either side of the fuse at the fuse box where it says gauges with the key on or off. Thats the 4th fuse up from the bottom. If anyone has had this problem or knows what might be wrong I'd appreciate any suggestions. You can post it here or email me at poco@bvunet.net

Thanks signed GETIN A LITTLE CRAZY HERE

What you are experiencing is called voltage drop, basically when you put a load on the circuit the voltage supply falls apart. The problem is between your power source (battery) and your fuse box. You've either got a loose connection or a corrrded wire or connection forward of the firewall. There is a junction block on the radiator support, check for B+ voltage there and work your way to the bulkhead connector at the bak of the fuse box. Also they share a common ground in the trunk, check its integrity. A digital voltage meter is best for this as a test light can be misleading, most will light with only 6 volts. Good luck.

Dan E.
69 SS396 4spd. 4.10 posi. x66 coupe

:o Hey Dan, Thanks for the reply. I have checked everything on the inside of the car that has a connection with no luck. Every other circuit like the headlights, park lights and signal lights all work fine, If there was a voltage drop from the battery would'nt it affect them also? Please know that I'm not questioning your suggestion in any way I'm just trying to find where this is happening. Should the fuse for the gauges have power at all times or just when the key is on? Thanks

That sounds more like a bad ground to me. Is the metal wire that goes up from the instrumental panel gauges to the top center screw well grounded?

Actually the dash cluster isnt in the car right now but the heater control box is and the light in it was working fine untill the break lights and rear park lights stopped working. the front park lights work fine. The rear signal lights and emergency flashers still work. just no park or break lights. I think one problem is that there is no power on either side of the fuse for the gauges at the fuse box. I cant tell where the power should come from for this circuit or if the key needs to be on or off.

:o:confused::mad:GETTIN CRAZIER BY THE MINUTE LOL