Greetings All! I'm a "new kid on the block" who is looking for some expert advice from '69 owners. I'm considering purchasing a '69 Camaro. It's got a 350 hp chevy crate motor & aluminan high rise headers. Auto transmission, power steering & brakes. Rallye wheels, a custom steering wheel, original yellow on black Calif plates, sound proofing material lining the trunk, a steel induction hood cowling , and what has been described to me as a "nice" stereo system ( didn't bother to listen to it ) It has 60,000 Plus miles on it and it's claimed to be in excellent condition. Visually speaking I would agree with that assessment ( have not yet had it mechanically checked out ) But.... I was told there is some issue/ damage with the front bumper that will require repair or replacement and could cost as much as about $800 And it does have minor scrathes,dings,
chipping, etc. The owner wants $18,500 and would not consider offers below $16,000. Would you consider $16 K a fair price for the condition that it's in or is the owner asking too much? At 60,000 Plus miles, how much longer could this car realistically last? Is a 69 camaro maintenence
heavy and/or expensive to maintain? Is it expensive to insure? Are parts hard to find and are they expensive? What is the average MPG it gets? Is a 69 camaro a big target for car thieves? I'd appreciate all the help I could possibly get. Thanks!

Hey Greg; welcome to TC! I'm also fairly new here, but I've been a 69 Camaro owner for about 10 years now; and a complete ENTHUSIAST. I don't know much; not nearly as much as some of the guys here, but you've definitely come to the right place. See if you can get more information on the car, i.e. Cowl Tag numbers, VIN #'s, and the guys can tell you a whole lot more about this vehicle. The values of these cars range DRAMATICALLY depending on factory options, Z/28, SS, RS, convertible, driveline, etc.

As an example, I bought my 69 Z/28 almost 10 years ago for 17k. I've loved these cars ever since I was a kid, so I had to have one; this one just happended to fit my budget at the time...Low and behold, I got myself an original '69 Z/28 in GREAT shape! As I've gone through the car over this time, I've learned that it is in really, really good shape and mostly original. Been working my butt off on it for a LONG time, but that's the fun part for me. I've had offers to buy this car for as much as 50 grand, but it's not for sale... : )

I'll try to answer a couple of your questions off the cuff. First of all...who cares what the MPG's are? The less the better here... I think the more I work on my car, the newer it gets and the longer it will last. It won't see rain or snow ever again; it was orignally a TX car, so I don't think it's ever seen snow...I intend to have my 3 y.o. daughter take mine to her Junior Prom, so I guess I expect it to last a few years. There is going to be a LOT of maintenence on a 40+ y.o. car, but for me, and most of the other guys here, that's what it's all about. In my opinion, parts are more readily available than I ever imagined, although I believe reasonably priced, they can add up over time. Insurance is very reasonable; I think these classic car insurance companies know that we're the most careful drivers on the road when we're out driving a labor of love.... I hope this helps some, try to get some more info. on the car and some of the guys that really know what they are doing here will give you more information.

These cars are maintenance minded, look at the Owner's Manual and compare it to a late model vehicle - lots of maintenance.

Vehicles today are designed for 100K miles before maintenance other than oil changes.
You're contemplating MPG, with this model of car, this item should be on the bottom of the list. You'd be lucky to get 10 mpg if you feather it.

Good luck on you're purchase, post the Trim Tag info and let the experts at Tag Team decode it to tell you what you have. Make a list of other items you find on the car, spring configuration, disc brakes on what axles, tach redline, tinted windows, RS pkg (hideaway headlights), emblem location, the list goes on - tire air pressure on the glovebox door, trunk lid stickers, fullsize spare or Space Saver - like I said, the list goes on.

Welcome Greg. All good feedback to your questions here. Especially the one Tony wrote "I think the more I work on my car, the newer it gets and the longer it will last". So true, every Winter you'll take on some project that will probably including changing something old for new.

And dont even worry about the MPGs. I kind of like going to a gas station to "fill er up".

Greg welcome to TC... Wow you are up early for a west coaster. As some of the others pointed out $16k - $18k might just get you a starter car project depending on the model (RS, SS, Z/28, ragtop etc) and factory equiped options. Being in the bay area I would think that price range would find you on the lower end of the spectrum for a finished car. Maybe the owner is strapped for cash and is being forced to sell, if that's the case you might be getting more for your money. Having been involved with these cars for a while I tend to believe the seller generally wants more for the car than it's worth and buyers tend to pay more too. Even in a buyers market the fear is if you walk away to think about it it will be gone when you come back. This is happening less now but if the car was a really smoking deal it will be gone when you go back.

The first thing you need to do is get the VIN and match it to the hidden partial VIN under the cowl vent on the passenger side of the car. If they don't match something is wrong. You don't want to buy a stolen car so make sure the car has a title too. I'm not against good music and a nice stereo system but I believe you are buying the car not the "system". Most guys into high end sound systems add what they paid for the system directly onto the price of the car. It's funny most of the cost of a new transmission or brakes 6 months ago gets asorbed and a couple thousand might equate to $500 onto the asking price but every car I have ever looked at with a $2000 system (even if it's 2 years old) has that $2000 tacked on to the cars price...

Body and paint work is expensive, a new bumper is $125, more if you need a couple brackets and maybe 2 hrs labor to install it so that's a $400 bill at best. I'm guessing the front end needs body work, the sellers $800 estimate could be a couple thousand so have that checked out by a body shop before you buy as well have someone go over the mechanicals.

There are folks using 1st gens as daily drivers but your typical car is garage kept and taken out in nice weather and doesn't get parked in mall parking lots. These cars are big targets for theft and if you left yours parked on the street every night it will be gone within a few months unless you are on a really out of the way street. Insurance can be inexpensive if you have another car for a driver, park it in a garage and don't commute to work in it. Even if you don't get classic car insurance the premium might be lower than a newer car but the payoff if something happens to the car will depreciate. With classic car ins the value is set and the ins co might even expect to see you up the value as the years pass.

Forget gas mileage in the sense that you check it with every tank like in your daily driver. I've managed 23 mpg out of my '69 but also seen 5 or 6 mpg from it. The only way to see a number that doesn't make the epa cringe is to get up to 60mph and don't speed up or slow down until the tank is empty. The 1st time you take advantage of the V8 power to pass someone thinking about gas mileage is over, same with driving around town.

A car like this '69 you are looking at has to be looked at as a toy or hobby, no different than a boat, it will cost you money but it will bring you pleasure. Any other outlook on your part and it's not really what you want... Sorry to be so long winded, I don't want to chace anyone away but you need to know what you are gettig into for it to be fun.

If you just drive the car as you would a new car more than likely your going to break down. These are high matenaince cars compared to say a 2010 Camaro. But they are very easy to work on if you at least a little mechanically inclined.

Repair and parts are sometimes very cheap and sometimes very expensive. It depends what part we are talking about. These cars are hobbies and the companies who sell parts have caught on and charge a premium for a lot of parts. Sort of like the way Home Depot made home repairs/upgrades more expensive. Classic car insurance through Grundy or others is very cheap. Classic cars are indeed a target for theives imo. So you must take measures to protect your investment, kill switch etc.

Dennis makes an excellent point about the car being a toy and hobby. I wouldnt dream of driving my 69 to work, or parking it where I cannot see it for that matter. They are easy cars to steal. I wonder from time to time if the used parts I am buying arent coming from some poor souls stolen 69 camaro that he slaved over but ended up getting ripped off and parted out.

I bought my 69 for $16K. When I told my friends what I had they looked shocked. It needed an entire interior and the engine barely ran. It had a bent tie rod end and was in need of a total restoration. What they couldnt see, that I did, was a body with very little rust and a NO HIT BODY! Can you believe it. After 40 years it had not been in one accident. I know this because I have the body down to a shell and have seen every part of the car. Subframe even measure to within 1/8 inch. This will save a lot of money.

I was told that a good determining factor when buying an older car, is to ask yourself, if the car was totally taken apart, could you sell all the parts seperate and come up with the same dollar amount you purchased the car for. Worked for me. Good luck with the car hunt.