I'm installing slide-a-links and hotchkis springs on my 69. The u bolt that camps over the end of the spring just catches the 2nd leaf. When the leaf flattens with load from the wieght of the vehicle will there be more leaf to clamp on to? or should I trim a little off the 2nd leaf ? Surely someone on this site has installed this traction device and aftermarket springs. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m358/kalinichkid/slidealinks001.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m358/kalinichkid/slidealinks002.jpg

mine didn't sit like that, clamp is on main leaf only.
I would trim the 2nd leaf back enough to clear.

I'm with Jim. You want the bracket sitting flush against the leaf and more threads through on that u-bolt.

I'm with Jim. You want the bracket sitting flush against the leaf and more threads through on that u-bolt.


That is what I thought. How much do you think the 2nd leaf will slide forward with loaded suspension? In other words how much should I trim? I'll have to cut into some of the anti-friction pad. Will a zip blade be the best way to cut the leaf? Thanks in advance.

You may just have to cut it a 1/4" back from the bracket and wait till you have it back on it's feet and see if the 2nd leaf pushes up against it then trim it some more. I'm not really sure how much it will move under load. I was thinking a cut off wheel would do the trick.

I'm kinda surprised none of the better suspension guys have chimed in. Keep in mind the above is a extremely non-pro opinion, it's just what I would do.

Just a thought, but have you checked to make sure that your leaf spring isn't turned around backwards? Typically, the leafs are longer towards the rear than the front to help offset/reduce/control the effects of axle wrap.

Might want to verify before you start cutting the leaf...

Damn, good thought Bob.

there is about a 4" difference to center from 1 side to the center from the other side on the leaf spring. his wheel wouldnt fit in the wheel well.

Thanks Mark, I've never tried to put a set of leafs on backwards so I didn't know that ;)

I think I'll trim 1/4" off to start.

The springs are definately in the right direction. I had to remove the factory bushings to install the aluminum ones. The hotchkis springs are like the old super stockers with more/longer leafs toward the front, it is supposed to help stop spring wrap up (wheel Hop ).at least that is according to Hotchkis.

Wouldn't it help more if they are stiffer in the front to prevent wheel hop?

ps. how the heck do you multi quote?............ I just figured it out!!

I put the brackets on loose, flipped the spring over on the concrete, then stood on it and bounced. That gave me a quick eye reference. Then I trimmed off the front of that leaf just past the point of where the bracket rested when I compressed the spring with my bouncing. So far so good.

I put the brackets on loose, flipped the spring over on the concrete, then stood on it and bounced. That gave me a quick eye reference. Then I trimmed off the front of that leaf just past the point of where the bracket rested when I compressed the spring with my bouncing. So far so good.


Nice to see that it has happened before and that I'm not the exception. How much did you end up trimming? And what did you use to trim.

I cut it to the edge of the plastic isolator, but looking at it tonight it could probably use another quarter of an inch. I used a elect. cut-off wheel, and went slow so I didn't touch the longer spring. I found the springs to be pretty stiff, but a little more gap would be nice for movement. And over time they have sagged a little. It's now on my list of to do's. I'm betting if I jack up the rear, put stands under the frame and let the rear-end droop, I could trim a little more with out removing everything. Though there may be a better way to do this , and it probably goes against manufacturer req's. So ultimately you'll have to decide if it's worth it, and safe. I figured it was.

I cut it to the edge of the plastic isolator, but looking at it tonight it could probably use another quarter of an inch. I used a elect. cut-off wheel, and went slow so I didn't touch the longer spring. I found the springs to be pretty stiff, but a little more gap would be nice for movement. And over time they have sagged a little. It's now on my list of to do's. I'm betting if I jack up the rear, put stands under the frame and let the rear-end droop, I could trim a little more with out removing everything. Though there may be a better way to do this , and it probably goes against manufacturer req's. So ultimately you'll have to decide if it's worth it, and safe. I figured it was.

Thanks for the input. I'm cutting them, probably into the anti friction pads a bit. I don't think it will affect antything. might as well do it now as it will be easier with the springs out of the car.

How do you like the slide a links? what type of shocks are you running?

I've only tried a few hard launches on the streets near home, but I really noticed the rear dig in. I have about a 1/2 inch gap on the bushings, because I don't have a race car or anything, so I cant even tell they are there on bumpy roads. I think they are way better than slapper bars, plus I really liked the design and the adjustability they offer. I was planning on doing some drag racing soon with them, but I am having a constant motor smoke issue I need to address. I am mostly a low-buck guy, so I used KYB shocks, nothing extreme.

I've only tried a few hard launches on the streets near home, but I really noticed the rear dig in. I have about a 1/2 inch gap on the bushings, because I don't have a race car or anything, so I cant even tell they are there on bumpy roads. I think they are way better than slapper bars, plus I really liked the design and the adjustability they offer. I was planning on doing some drag racing soon with them, but I am having a constant motor smoke issue I need to address. I am mostly a low-buck guy, so I used KYB shocks, nothing extreme.

I am currently running KYBs but plan on changing them using these springs. The KYBs are really stiff you may get a better ride by just changing shocks. I'm looking at the Bilsteins that are valved for these springs or some QA1 adjustables.