watzignition
Apr 6th, 09, 04:02 PM
My car started fine (a 1969 Camaro) until I decided to paint the alternator bracket that also serves as the main ground. When I remounted the bracket I didn't have sufficient bare metal contact from the bracket to the mounting bolts because of the fresh paint. So, the car wouldn't start. So, I cleaned and sanded around the bolt holes to re-establish a good ground. But, now each time I try to start the car the dash lights along the bottom go out when I turn the key and the car doesn't start. When I insert the key to "on" the lights (brake light and oil light) start out normal, then I hear a click at the voltage regulator and the dash lights go out and no voltage ever reaches the starter to turn the engine. I also have no lights to the headlights, radio, interior, etc. when this happens. I have to remove the ground wire and touch it to the valve covers a couple of time to re-establish the circuit to normal. Then I reconnect the ground wire to the bracket, turn the key, and the whole thing repeats itself again. I even tried connecting the ground wire directly to the engine block but that doesn't help either - still same problem. Can somebody help me?
john68
Apr 6th, 09, 04:35 PM
Do you also have the body grounds?
Everett#2390
Apr 6th, 09, 04:51 PM
Move battery ground cable to engine block.
Remove and clean all connections on junction block and horn relay buss bar.
Nantooch
Apr 6th, 09, 04:57 PM
Move battery ground cable to engine block.
Remove and clean all connections on junction block and horn relay buss bar.
X2, your still not getting a good ground to support the amps required to run the starter.
watzignition
Apr 6th, 09, 05:32 PM
No. The body ground got fried trying to support starting. But, though fried the body ground seemed to be enough to support the interior lights. At this point even turning on the headlights is enough to kill the circuits.
Where is the junction block located?
dnult
Apr 6th, 09, 08:05 PM
Bad connections are high resistance. At low currents you can hardly tell they're there. At high currents they act like an open circuit. So what you're seeing with the interior lights is not a sign of a good circuit, just a circuit good enough to run a few light bulbs.
watzignition
Apr 6th, 09, 08:17 PM
I followed all of your advice: I cleaned all connections; replaced body ground; and kept in mind "high resistance" & "not enough amps to start". Everything helped. I turned out to be the real culprit - I failed to tighten the hot battery terminal, and it took painting my alternator bracket to bring out that I had a bad connection. Thanks one and all.
Everett#2390
Apr 6th, 09, 10:09 PM
Kewl! you're welcome. Junction block next to the battery on the radiator support.
dnult
Apr 7th, 09, 06:47 PM
Glad you got it going Mike. Thanks for reporting back. Sounds like your electrical system is getting in shape. I know my 68 had a daisy chain of bad connections. First I'd find a bad ground and then the fuse terminal would flake out due to corrosion. I'd fix the fuse terminal and a bulb socket would act up. Once the weakest link was eliminated, the next weakest would give me fits. I scratched a bald spot in my head since I knew I had found a problem and fixed it only to find something else. :beers: