I am looking for any headache savers or tips on good places to attach my chains. Want four good points that will provide an even load distribution. Using a overhead winch to do the install and want to get her on the mounts as easily as possible. I don't have a load leveler.

thanks!

It's exciting to put an engine in to place. In my limited (out & in) experience it would be difficult without a load leveler to shift the angle to get the transmission down under the firewall, then back to horizontal to rest on the transmission mount. I used one with my new engine hoist - worked great. I've seen mention of lift flanges on engines, but mine did not have any - so had to use intake manifold bolts at the 4 corners. Put longer bolts with washers in the holes and L brackets on chains of leveler. Used U shaped chain links with a bolt across the open end of the U to adjust chain lengths. Had to remove distributor to keep from having chain put too much pressure on it. Beware oil cap if using an engine hoist.

As noted in the thread about "things not to do", install your power steering pump (at least the mount) before dropping the motor in. Also, lay the transmission shifter connection flat, not vertical like I did - but it was easy to correct - it is held on with a cotter pin. :) Another post says to install the gas pedal before the motor - not necessary - was able to remove the rubber pedal and poke the shaft inside after the engine was in.

I took my engine out for restoration & dropped it back into place before the front clip was replaced - very easy to have access without fenders, etc and reduce worry about new paint.

Sorry for the length of this message - but I learned several tips just recently.

Good luck

Hey no need to ever apologize for lengthy messages that contain info that I didn't have before. That's a great tip about the PS Pump, I will have to look at that. I am also going to attempt to drop the motor in with the headers in the engine compartment and pushed off to the sides. Might not work out but if it does, it will save me a lot of time getting the car up high enough to do the install afterwards.

I do not plan to install the engine and transmission as one unit. Hopefully this doesn't present too many issues with getting things to line up. But I can see how you need a leveler if you are even thinking of going this route.

Seems like the four corners of the manny are standard practice, I'll do this rather than trying to come up with something exotic.

x2 on the load leveler. You might also install the motor w/o the headers on it, least until you get it nearly on the engine mounts then put the headers on. Really depends on how much clearance you have between the headers and steering box.

oh yeah- sorry if I wasn't clear. I'm going to see if i can bolt them on last minute- not planning to try to install with headers. That's just askin for trouble!

The main thing...just take your time. Doesn't hurt to have a couple of guys there to be checking the sides as ya lower it and fit it into place.

capt

One tip i can give is to KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE SPACE BETWEEN THE TRANS BELLHOUSING AND ENGINE BLOCK when you mate them up.

More later.

Big long 2x4 for putting leverage in the right place without getting your arms/body close to the engine.

And unless you have access to a lift and tranny jack, I'd install the trans and motor as one unit, far easier than trying to install a trans under the car on jack stands.

All you need is a jack under the car to lift tail housing up slowly and the motor goes in. And with a load leveler it isn't hard to angle it how you need it:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall020.jpg

I ended up having to change out the trans later with a different one and it was far easier getting it in as one piece.

If you are just installing the engine then I'd use a intake plate to attach the picker. It's a piec of cake. I'd also tape and cover things you don't want scratched. (Firewall,radiator support, etc.)

This is with using a intake plate with the picker, it has 3-hole positions from back-midle-front... Also fresh paint and a BBC with Hooker Super Comp Headers, that had to be laid in as the motor was getting lowered.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Installmotor007.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Installmotor006.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Installmotor005.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Installmotor004.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/skeeter55/Installmotor008.jpg

Where in PA are you? Maybe someone close (like me) has a leveler you can borrow.

These pictures are fantastic to look at and tell a lot. Thanks all that submitted- and also thanks for the other tips- including having a 2x4 handy to push the block around without having to get my arm in there.

I live in Pittsburgh Eric...

Aahh crud, wrong end of the state for you to use my leveler...

A leveler is invaluable if you are trying to install the engine and trans together, less important if you have them separate.

if you can't get your hands on a leveler then I would just use the intake plate as skeeter said, This is the route i went and it worked fine, I think if you use four picking points its going to be alot harder to shift around. I acually set the top bellhousing bolts in place as there not alot of room for your hands in there , than you can just use alot of exstensions with a swivel to tighten them from beind the tranny. I also bungied the driver side header to the frame rail intill the engine was in. the pass side slides right in. and if I were to do it again I would pull the distibuter. Good luck.

one tip that no one mentioned.. Do this on a warm day. Cold fingers don't work well on trying to get bolts to start and nuts to spin. Cold concrete is really hard on the back too.

I bought my load leveler at Harbor Freight for under $30.. It was well worth it.. I dont think I could have installed the Engine with the trans attached to it without this tool...

If the front clip is off the car, I dont think it would be needed, but with the front clip attached, I don't see how it could be done without it..

AutoZone lends tools. They may have levelers.

Fellas- Thanks much for all of the tips. I'm happy to report that the install went really well. Many of the tricks came in handy- like not forgetting about that PS bracket and having something to push the block around with. Also, the trick of slipping the headers in last minute worked like a charm. Now that's the way to install headers.

Link attached with a couple of pictures.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36126720@N06/

Right on, i guess you didn't waist any time:thumbsup:

Skeeter, this motor and engine bay aren't even half as pretty as your's... I loved those pictures you posted. Thanks for sharing them, was helpful to see how the weight would be distributed from looking at those.

Skeeter, this motor and engine bay aren't even half as pretty as your's... I loved those pictures you posted. Thanks for sharing them, was helpful to see how the weight would be distributed from looking at those.Thank you for the complements,
Any time im glad it helped you out a little :yes:.