i have a stock front end. i recently installed new inner & outer tie rods,new pitman arm,new idler arm,new upper & lower ball joints and an energy suspension master kit,front only so far,upper & lower control arm bushings,ball joint dust boots,upper and lower,tie rod dust boots,sway bar bushings and end links. when i got done it obviously needed alignment cause the wheels looked like a volkswagon (bottom of inner tires don't touch the ground).had it towed to an alignment shop,but when they were done the car was hard to control and still had that volkswagon tire look. i took it back to them and they said one of my wheel bearings were loose and a loose ball joint on the opposite side. they also said that if i corrected those two problems that they would re-align it for nothing. so...i fixed those two problems and took it for a test drive and handling was slightly better,but bottom of wheels were still bowed inward. anyone have any ideas what i may have done wrong? the aligment shop didn't seem to have a clue.

Make sure you put the ball joints in on the right side of the control arms. The lowers press in from the bottom. The uppers bolt in from the top and the bolts go in from the bottom. Also, did you align your coil springs with the upper coil end at the sight hole in the spring pocket? And I know it sounds stupid, but you did put the control arms back on the correct sides, right?

I just did the same stuff you did and mine is sitting on stands in the garage. I can put up pictures on Tuesday if you need them.

Assuming that you have put everything together properly , that alignment SUCKS! Cant recall off the top oif my head what the factory specs are for an early Camaro but I always set then to 1/4 positve camber max, that small amount should not be very noticable. It sounds like you have at least 1 degree or more of positive Camber. Are there shims left between the upper control arms and the frame? I think there should be a stack of 'em.

Jeff

thanks for the advice,i work two jobs and don't get to spend much time on her,but when i do,i'll see what's what and let you know what i find out. thanks again.

well, my lower control arms have no sight holes,and they are original. only one spring was slightly off,so i corrected it,but still hard to control.bottom of tires still bow inward.wondering if i got ripped off where i took it to have it aligned. my leaf spring bushings are shot too,but shouldn't give me this much trouble. may shop around for a better alignment shop. grrrrrrrrr.

well, my lower control arms have no sight holes,and they are original. only one spring was slightly off,so i corrected it,but still hard to control.bottom of tires still bow inward.wondering if i got ripped off where i took it to have it aligned. my leaf spring bushings are shot too,but shouldn't give me this much trouble. may shop around for a better alignment shop. grrrrrrrrr.

I have two sets of lower control arms with no holes in them. I was told that the lower hole was only for drainage if it was there. To get the coil spring aligned, there should be a hole in the upper spring pocket about a half inch from the end of the pocket and that's the one you use for alignment. Put a small screwdriver through that hole and rotate the spring around until it hits it. Then jack the lca up some and remove the screwdriver. The springs have to go in with the right side up as well.

Are there any shims at the upper control arm at all?

I realize it won't help much but here are the measurements of the inner/outer tie rod assemblies from outside edge to outside edge on my drum brake '69:
Left: 17-1/8"
Right: 16-5/8"

You need upper control arm shims on both side to correct the wheel problems.