I have a 73 z28 and i put a new isky racing cam and new heads in. now i need to put some lakewood street/strip traction bars with the j bolt option on it if you are hearing what im saying. Now i hear that the stock sway bar will get in the way of the J bolt options. Is this true?

spend a little extra and get some caltracs from calvert racing.

I run a 70Z with a 7000 rpm 600Hp 460 BC to a M22 the 12 Bolt runs 3.31's for Road Racing. I prefer 3.08's as I'm mostly on the HWY.

1st you require Sub-Frame Connector's or you will crack the Sail Panel that joins the Roof to the Rear Quarter and prevent the Sub Frame from Walking. Morrosso Bolt in's are fine - just make sure you have the Sub-Frame properly positioned before bolting or welding the connector in place and all Sub-Frame mounts are in good condition. Suggest you use a drilled out Hockey Puck for the last frame mount. The Multi-Left springs do not require traction bars unless you are launching at Hi-Rev's with Hi-Gear ratio's and not required if you are running street radials. I run T/A P295's X 15's, Cal-Tracs, in my opinion, are not required but I do run an extra leaf. Cal-Tracs can be fabricated if you have access to a MIG or TIG, Grinder and a Vise - just google Cal-Trac Fabrication to get the specs.

If you raise the rear for tire clearance you will have to extend the Sway Bar Connectors, use shock extenders and a longer Flex Brake hose to equal the raise - a 78 to 81 Ford Truck Rear axle Brake Hose works but you require a double ended female coupler. The pinion angle should be OK if you do not exceed 1.5"; other words, you should take the angle into consideration and shim the spring perches as you don't want to loose a drive shaft.

Stay away from Traction Bars and keep them Round Tail Lights on the Road ;o)

But do you know if the j bolt option will work

I can't see why you can not drill the inner Spring Perch to pass a U or J Bolt, if there is room to allow it, but I would also use a nut on the U bolt thread where the Original Head Bolt resided to maintain torque on the Perch Bracket. Obviously if you change the location of the Optional F41 Sway Bar End Brackets, you have to take the length of the Sway Bar swing mounts into consideration. For the sake of Drag Racing most just remove the F41 Sway Bar; but why use Slapper's when you have 5 leaf springs and you can mount a Cal-Tract solution which is Superior and not that complicated to set up.

If you have to, Fabricate a F41 Mount that Bolts to the inner Bolts or is welded to the Bottom Plate using Flat Bar and a Steel Pipe to house the Bushing.

You can take the slack out of the Spring Perches by removing the Rubber Spring Pads and Welding in a Flat Plate with Centring Hole but be wary that the pinion angle has to be set - using shims, if necessary - or you risk breaking universals, springs ... etc.

Keep in mind that you want the Rear Suspension to travel and Slapper's defeats this and place forces in the Wrong Place on the leafs and will cause the rear to react dangerously when driving over pot holes, speed bumps or corning.

X2 on the Caltracs. Have them on both my cars. One of the best purchases made in my case.