View Full Version : 67 door fit


67LSRS
May 5th, 09, 06:34 PM
I have searched and can not really find what I am looking for. I have taken a long break from the car and recently started back into it. Have to get the shell in one piece to either finish or move it. I have installed re-pop quarters with the original doors and fenders still in place at time of replacement. Since then I re-skinned the doors and I am trying to get them lined up, man what a nightmare!

The gaps were good with the original door but since the re-skin and taking the fenders off I can not get anything close to what I had. The part the has me worried is I still have the drivers door skin (Original) that I ground off, and I measured the skin and came up with 49" from the top of the belt line straight across the door. Now the re-skinned door measures 49" at that point also, and the same with a new repop Door shell that I have (that will be used as a bench LOL).

Now I am thinking that after grinding the skin off it should be smaller than what my door measures with the new skin not equal but at least a 1/16th or 1/8th" shorter. Can someone measure their doors at the same point and let me know what they have, and if we can get someone with original gm doors and some re-pops that would be great.

As you can guess the gaps front and back of the door are way to large and they were really close with the original door skin and re-pop quarter.
Not to mention I am having a heck of time trying to adjust these things by myself just don’t have enough hands and the Phillips head bolts in the bottom hinge really sucks !!! LOL Oh well any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

john68
May 5th, 09, 06:48 PM
I just checked my 2 68 doors. a reskin with factory skins 49 1/16, the original is even 49 inches both drivers side, hope this helps

67LSRS
May 5th, 09, 07:02 PM
John

Thanks for the quick response, the origional at 49" how are the gaps on that as far as looks and size (approximately), If I set a good 3/16 gap at the quarter (3/16-1/4) I end up with almost 3/8's at the front fender with the fender all the way back to the rocker at the bottom, so even if I slot the fender bolt holes I cant move it any farther back.

john68
May 5th, 09, 07:05 PM
Sorry can't help with the gaps on the 49's they are stacked in the corner of the garage

Satatic
May 5th, 09, 07:07 PM
A tip, after i got mine aligned, i knocked the pins out and take the doors off that way. Then when I had the door sitting on the stand I drilled two holes right through the hinge and through the metal plate that the bolts go through. Has to be two holes because if you just made one hole it that would just be an axis. Same with the other half of the hinge that remained on the body.

Now I have no issues with scratching or realigning. Just bolt half the hinge on the door, slide my drill bits into the two holes, and tighten the bolts the rest of the way.

I took a long cheap flat ended punch and drilled a dimple in the end for use in knocking the door pins out. And its easier when reinstalling the door to use two punches that are smaller than the door pins first to hold it in place and then put the pins back in. Its a little tough to install the pins while holding a door.

Have not addressed the spring issue yet.

67LSRS
May 5th, 09, 07:07 PM
John

LOL Oh Ok Thank ya though

67LSRS
May 5th, 09, 07:11 PM
Satatic

Is yours a 67 with the cast bottom hinge?

Satatic
May 5th, 09, 08:11 PM
No its a 68, i thought the diference was the number of bolts in the hinge and location, Didnt know something was cast.

67LSRS
May 5th, 09, 08:26 PM
ya along with the 3 bolt to four bolt difference the lower hinge on a 67 is cast, pretty sure the 8 is a stamped steel.

67LSRS
May 5th, 09, 09:32 PM
Anyone else with measurements of your doors (67-68) ?

Thanks

67LSRS
May 6th, 09, 06:23 PM
Ttt

67LSRS
May 6th, 09, 09:27 PM
It appears after some searching again tonight, I found a few threads saying the repop door shells are 1/16th to 1/4" short. If thats the case my door skin is short also it measures the 49" same as the door shell I had purchased.
So as far as adding material to the doors edge which has me quite concerned, what is the best way to do this? I found a thread where "Belaire Bob" I think it was said to get the 1/16th steel rod and spot weld to edge in various lengths, what would be the spacing that is best and the least chance of warping anything???
Also wouldnt it be a problem to fill the non-welded areas with filler or would that area being so small be ok for a good repair?
Or would it be recommended to weld the entire length by spot welding in alternate areas to full then grind?

67LSRS
May 8th, 09, 03:16 PM
Anyone ????

cromedss
May 8th, 09, 06:19 PM
It appears after some searching again tonight, I found a few threads saying the repop door shells are 1/16th to 1/4" short. If thats the case my door skin is short also it measures the 49" same as the door shell I had purchased.
So as far as adding material to the doors edge which has me quite concerned, what is the best way to do this? I found a thread where "Belaire Bob" I think it was said to get the 1/16th steel rod and spot weld to edge in various lengths, what would be the spacing that is best and the least chance of warping anything???
Also wouldnt it be a problem to fill the non-welded areas with filler or would that area being so small be ok for a good repair?
Or would it be recommended to weld the entire length by spot welding in alternate areas to full then grind?

Did you weld your skins on or bond them with adhesive? If you used adhesive you are going to have a hard time welding the rod to the panel without it blowing through. If its all metal just make sure you prep the panel and it should be fairly easy to weld up. Just do tack welds so you don't warp the skin. If you do it right it will be hard to tell you added metal.

67LSRS
May 8th, 09, 07:51 PM
Any certain spacing on the tacks? Or just keeping tacking alternating locations until it is a solid bead?
Also I just crimped and spot welded the skin to shell, no adhesive used.

67speedfreak
May 8th, 09, 08:01 PM
If all you need is a 1/16 I would just build it out with weld,
and yes I would weld it solid.

Brian

67LSRS
May 16th, 09, 09:59 PM
Well what a difference a week makes! I went out in the garage today first time in about a week, Set the gap on the rear of the door to quarter. Than put the fender back on and bam it was actually to close of a gap but man am I happy I can adjust to make them bigger but really did not want to weld on them.
I am going to set the complete front on and make sure that everything is as it should be or can be adjusted so, because I must have been really over looking something or was just looking without seeing last week anyway thanks for all the help on this!!!
:hurray: