This is going to sound crazy,but... I'm building a twin turbo and planning for the future. I went from a 11" booster to a dual dia 8" booster to hydroboost for space. Had a problem with the hydroboost and now back to the 8" booster. I don't want to have the problems I had with the hydroboost again (got me stranded) and was thinking now about just a good manual disk master that will stop good. What's your take on it?

I like the feel of a good manual system, vacuum just feels dead to me.

The trick with a manual system is managing leverage, both mechanical and hydraulic. To make it work, you need to generate high pressure at a very low volume, so good manual disk CALIPERS will have small pistons to do a lot of work with a small volume of fluid.

My wilwood dynalites work very well manual. Great feel and excellent stopping power.

With something like you are building, you'll want to talk to a pro about brake system design.

B/c I'm a sorry SOB b/c my car isn't on the road..

I mounted a 1.25" dia. piston PDB M/C in my car b/c I have a way old mag article in it that has a disc conversion done to a Chevelle w/ '80 Cad Seville e-brake calipers b/c it said that the guys system needed more fluid volume to handle 4WD's.

If the SOB won't haul my car down like I want, I will can it and go smaller piston.

Me and my "pdqCBB" 1988 'Vette 13" rotors w/ big single piston calipers front and 1989 Camaro 11.75" rotors w/ Cad Seville e-brake calipers on the back.

I had to make a M/C p/r centering "holder" like in some stock applications so that if the M/C piston stuck in, I wouldn't drop my p/r and lose my brakes! Simple to do!!

pdq67

I have a 67 Camaro pro street car (amateur) with 72 Nova discs in front and a 9" Lincoln rear w/ discs. Using a 68 Corvette 1" bore master cylinder. It takes some effort but there is a lot of brake there. When you first hit them you wonder but the harder you push the more confidence you have, and mine are nothing like what the aftermarket offers. Get a package that builds the right pressure and you'll be ok.

B/c I'm a sorry SOB b/c my car isn't on the road..

I mounted a 1.25" dia. piston PDB M/C in my car b/c I have a way old mag article in it that has a disc conversion done to a Chevelle w/ '80 Cad Seville e-brake calipers b/c it said that the guys system needed more fluid volume to handle 4WD's.

If the SOB won't haul my car down like I want, I will can it and go smaller piston.

Me and my "pdqCBB" 1988 'Vette 13" rotors w/ big single piston calipers front and 1989 Camaro 11.75" rotors w/ 1980 Cad Seville e-brake calipers on the back. (Same one's that are on the T/A's)...

I had to make a M/C p/r centering "holder" like in some stock applications so that if the M/C piston stuck in, I wouldn't drop my p/r and lose my brakes! Simple to do!!

pdq67

match the components properly, and you will have plenty of stopping power.
i can say from experience with my 71 Nova that 12" C4 Vette brakes in the front with the stock Nova drums in the rear were absolutely perfect with a mid 70's Chevelle manual master cylinder. after a little bit of tuning the rear brake pressure with the adjustable prop valve, it would just flat out STOP if you pushed the pedal as hard as you could and just modulated it a little when you started to feel things locking up. very good feedback thru the pedal.

I have a manual wilwood set up and it will stretch your eye balls. Around town it's a little more effort but they are really nice at speed or on the track. I ended up putting a residual valve out back to help with pedal travel racing. I haven't raced since but I have a better pedal.

I ended up putting a residual valve out back to help with pedal travel .

I did this too. the c clip axles were moving aroung and kicking the rear pads back, never knew what height the pedal would be!
A 2 lb RVP in the rear line fixed it right up.

I did this too. the c clip axles were moving aroung and kicking the rear pads back, never knew what height the pedal would be!
A 2 lb RVP in the rear line fixed it right up.


I already have one too for the back brakes. Jim, what master are you using? Also how does the manual master mount to the firewall?

I already have one too for the back brakes. Jim, what master are you using? Also how does the manual master mount to the firewall?
the manual master bolts to the top two studs that stick out of the firewall.

I did this too. the c clip axles were moving aroung and kicking the rear pads back, never knew what height the pedal would be!
A 2 lb RVP in the rear line fixed it right up.

I have big ford ends and didn't have any real issue until I autocrossed the car. That is a ton of stress and deflection. Went into the second corner and whent OH ****. Really threw off my timing. Pumping the brakes between corners isn't ideal.:D To find out if you need a residual valve, jack the car up after a drive and turn the wheels and feel the pad drag. My front wheels would only turn about a 1/2 turn with moderate pressure. The rears barely scraped at all.

How do I delete that 2nd post??

Sorry, my bad...

pdq67