I have a 69 with drum brakes and just got a great deal on a front disc brake setup from wilwood. It is summit part #140-2285-B. I was wondering what else I will need for the swap. So far it looks like I need a master cylinder (any suggestions) and maybe lines. What about a proportioning valve. What about a special tool or safety wire. First time so any advise is appreciated. Thanks Darren

I just did the swap myself on my 68 (front and back). You will need the safety wire and the special pliers as the kid does not include them. I got mine from Summit as no one in town had them. I went ahead and replaced the brake lines as mine were in bad shape. I went with Wilwood tendam M/C, I don't think that's a must but I liked the look and heard good things about that combo. If your car is all drum then you will need to a proportioning valve. I would recommend an adjustable one. You will want to reuse your distribution block.

Thanks for the input Matt. It might seem like a dumb question but what is the safety wire for? Did you change the spindles also? If not did you have to take some material off of the existing ones?

You safety wire the bolts on the rotors as well as the calipers so the bolts won't "work" themselves out due to all the vibrations on these parts. I'll post a pic when I get home, it will make sense when you see it. (Helicopters safety wire just about every bolt...) I used my existing spindles and did not need any mods at all. That's the beauty of this kit!

Pics would be great. Thanks for the help.

Here are some pics of safety wire on the Wilwood rotor to adaptor bolts and caliper to caliper bracket bolts. As you can see the safety wire prevents the bolts from unscrewing themselves as one bolt's un-tighten motion would cause another bolts tighten motion, hence they are never coming loose.

http://www.mattlekawa.com/pictures/camaro/rotorAdaptorSafetyWire.jpg

http://www.mattlekawa.com/pictures/camaro/caliperSafetyWire.jpg

Wow, you've got to be kidding me. Theres no other way huh. How much of a pain is it to install the safety wire. Thanks for the pics Matt. That helps big time.

you can hand twist the safety wire, no need for pliers, they just make it easier. Aircraft bolts are almost always safety wired.

you can hand twist the safety wire, no need for pliers, they just make it easier. Aircraft bolts are almost always safety wired.

I would seriously not recommend doing this by hand at all. :sad: I am sure it can be done but you can't beat the safety wire pliers. I would follow Wilwood's instructions ("Always use safety wire pliers to twist the safety wire."). You can get a Safety wire kit that includes both the wire and the pliers for $50 from Summit.

Wow, you've got to be kidding me. Theres no other way huh. How much of a pain is it to install the safety wire. Thanks for the pics Matt. That helps big time.

It's not bad at all. Looks harder than it really is. It took me a couple practice runs but then I got it and was cruzn' along no problem.

Why would you not blue lock-tite and torque to spec. ??? I understand the NASCAR side. But we are talking about a street car here. Please no flames. just a question
Larry

Why would you not blue lock-tite and torque to spec. ??? I understand the NASCAR side. But we are talking about a street car here. Please no flames. just a question
Larry

Good question...Actually you do use lock-tite (red instead of blue) on some bolts, safety wire on others and both on some. I would guess the primary reason not to use lock-tite everywhere would be too much heat on some parts could break and release the lock-tite.

Exactly.....some of us race our street cars. Blue loctite is not ideal for high heat applications like brakes.