I have to get rid of my leaky air shocks, so I've bought a pair of Edelbrock shocks for my 67.
Simple question: Do I remove everything from the old set up, and install the new shocks, or do I keep the bracket that is connected to the car itself, and use that with the new shocks?
The new shocks only have two rubber bushings (one on each side of the floor pan) and a nut to tighten everything.

The rear end is now raised, with the supports on each side of the axle. Is this OK for removal of the old shocks?

Anything else I should think about before I go ahead? I've got a six pack, so that is taken care of:beers:

Remove everything from the old set-up and install the new shocks according to their instructions. Do one side at a time for reference.

Don't know about the supports presently on the car unless they are reinforcement plates for the floor where the shock connects to the trunk. I'd still remove the supports.

To me it looks like a reinforcement. It's oval shaped and attached to the underside of the pan with two screws. The top of the shock goes through this with a bushing (grommet?) above and below.

Reads like it is the original reinforcement - leave it.

The shock mounts stay.

Alf....Just remove the lower shock mount nut from the shock stud and the upper nut from the shock mount tower then compress the shock down and remove the shock, it's a simple 5 minute job!:yes:.....Support the rear of the car just as you have it then enjoy those brews!:yes::thumbsup::beers:

Yes, that was quite clear once I removed the air shock. If I had done this without the service manual, I wouldn't even have noticed the bracket.
This is the easiest operation I've done on the car so far, except... When I installed the right shock, the nut on the lower bolt started to slip way before I got to the recommended torque. That means I've got stripped threads on the bolt, and I can't get it off.
And because I live in a metric country, this bolt will not be that easy to find.
It's our national day tomorrow, that amounts to 4. July and then some, so once I wake up on Monday afternoon I'll try to get that #¤¤/&!"%¤#¤% thing off.

BTW, if anyone has the exact spesifications for this bolt, it will make my job easier.

Hi Ron,

Got any advice on the torque on the upper nut? Service manual says to torque real hard (80-120 if I remember correctly), but Edelbrock says torque finger tight, then 6 more turns to compress the bushings slightly.

Tighten the upper nut untill the bushing equals the the size of the flat washer. Not thickness, diameter. Follow Edelbrocks directions, sounds correct.

Thanks, that is pretty much what I did. I figured 100 ft/lbs would crush the poly bushings.

Yes, Edelbrocks directions are good!....I tighten them just like Dennis said.....One thing for sure, you'll know if their not tightened down enough as you'll hear all kind of racket when you hit a bump in the road!

I used a nut splitter and removed the nut, and the bolt came off without problems even though it was a bit bent after the operation. That makes me wonder if they have used bolts with less strenght than required, it's not normal for a bolt to bend (or strip the treads) like this.
So I found two 3 inch 7/16, 8/8 grade bolts at a hardware shop in Oslo (30 minutes drive away). The area without tread is 1/2 inch longer than the "original" bolt, but with two washers this was not a problem. I changed the other side as well.

Good riddance to the two leaky Gabriel air shocks!

To R&R each rear shock, remove the two 5/16" bolts that hold the upper oval bracket and pull down the shock with everything attached.

Beats leaning on the tail panel or crawling in the trunk.