I have stock camel hump heads in my 327 275 horse 67 camaro. They have never been ported. I've done some basic mods: edelbrock 600, performer intake, afterburner headers, 308 rear, new duel point ignition, stock cam, powerglide.

Can someone desktop dyno this nonported, to ported.

thanxs.

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Stock 67 327 RS
www.angelfire.com/ca7/goatjjcamarors/index.html (http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/goatjjcamarors/index.html)

Can't do a dyno comparison without flow numbers. Maybe someone else can help you there.

Yopu should be able to get a decent port job for $300 to $500 if you don't want to try it yourself. Just be sure the person you take your heads to has a good reputation. I don't know what your budget is, but you might want to go with a set of aftermarke heads. You could get a good set of iron heads for well under $1,000 that would flow better than your ported stockers.

Polishing is not worth the effort and expense on a street engine. The rough texture iside the port is actually beneficial at lower engine speeds. It creates motion in the air/fuel mixture which keeps the fuel from falling out.

The flow right now is 2.02- 1.60.

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Stock 67 327 RS
www.angelfire.com/ca7/goatjjcamarors/index.html (http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/goatjjcamarors/index.html)

2.02 - 1.60 is your valve size, That is different than flow numbers. Flow numbers are how much air/fuel can move through your ports (intake/exhaust) at different valve lifts. This can only be determined on a flow bench (a device used to test cyclinder head flow). The advice above was good, for the money you will be better off buying a more modern set of heads. Your camal humps were great back in the day, but technology has far surpassed them. You can port until you're blue in the face and the still will not flow as well as a box stock set of newer heads. The only reason to run heads like yours is if you race in a class that doesn't allow aftermarket heads or if you just want to keep originallity. They are not terrible, but if you are on the search for more power per dollar, the only way to go is to buy a more modern head.

Royce

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70 Camaro 383ci
69 Camaro 385ci
91 Camaro RS V8 (305 TBI)
Link to my 70

http://profiles.yahoo.com/camaroman7d

Thanx for the info camaroman7d.

What would be a good set of heads for the setup I'm running.(aluminum vs iron)

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Stock 67 327 RS
www.angelfire.com/ca7/goatjjcamarors/index.html (http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/goatjjcamarors/index.html)

www.airflowresearch.com (http://www.airflowresearch.com) Look at the 180cc or 190cc heads. http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

Goatjj,
I assume you're talking about 461 castings. they're very good heads, specially on a budget and for street use. You can spend a lot of money on the new after market heads and they are better, but no one has come up with a redesing of the combustion chamber or valve positioning that's radical enough to make the small block flow like it should. for very little work and money you can try your current heads first. If you're not happy then fork out the big bucks. since you have the big valves already make sure the chamber around the intake has been unshrouded or it will actually flow less than the 1.94's because the valve will be positioned too close to the chamber wall. It's easy to unshroud these yourself. Also clean and blend the valve pocket just below the valve seats. this will help flow more than anything else. You can also match the ports with a little grinding. If you did this I think you'd be pretty happy with them on the street. You can also install a set of stainless swirl polished, race-flo valves pretty cheaply and 1.6 rockers if you have the valve to piston clearance. Do all that and you're still only a couple hundred dollars into it, compared to a grand or whatever the after market heads run.

I CLEANED up the ports on my 461s. Smoothed out the exhaust port with a barrel/drum sander. Contoured the intake bowls aroun the guide boss and ground down the 'lump' under the seat area.
It was quite easy to do. (baisically followed a magazine article and some common sense and they turned out OK.) But then again I don't have any befor and after flow numbers. Try it!!

Like a few of the guys said, it wouldn't hurt to try to do some port work yourself. My point was if you are really looking to make more power, then I feel you will be better off with a newer/better head. If your present heads are already set up for unleaded fuel (hardend valve seats) and don't need anything ie... springs, seals or guides. Then you could spend a few hours and a few bucks and try to port them yourself. It should improve performance. Or you could just pick up you favorite catalog and order a set of heads that will out flow the ones you have. They will come with new everything and ready to run on unleaded. I would just hate to see you make the mistake I did, which was to pour a bunch of money into a set of GM (old) heads and then end up just swapping them out anyways. Sure they ran good for what they were, but when I bolted on my Dart Pro 1's it was like night and day. I had over $800 (probably close to a thousand) into those iron GM heads (port work, parts, machining) and I ported the intake side myself. Now they just sit in boxes on the shelf.

As far as head suggestions you can't go wrong with Dart Iron Eagles, World Sportsmans, AFR's, Pro Action or even GM Vortec heads if you are on a tighter budget. Any of these will be a noticeable improvement. I would stick with an iron head for your application, that will also save you some money and should make a little more HP. Good Luck

Royce

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70 Camaro 383ci
69 Camaro 385ci
91 Camaro RS V8 (305 TBI)
Link to my 70

http://profiles.yahoo.com/camaroman7d

I'm still running my heads without hardend seats, and just adding a lead additive. I need to pull the heads to either rebuild or change out.
It sounds like head replacement is the way to go.
I'll just add the camals to my collection of original parts in the corner of my garage.

Thanks for the help guys.


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Stock 67 327 RS
www.angelfire.com/ca7/goatjjcamarors/index.html (http://www.angelfire.com/ca7/goatjjcamarors/index.html)